FN2 type r any hidden surprises?
Discussion
The engines themselves are extremely reliable, had mine over 3 years now and recently had to replace the vtec solenoid valve which is rare for them to fail but it can happen (they have a few sensors and some sort of oil pump inside) it is a DIY job but you need to remove the rocker cover to gain access. Even when it was faulty the engine will still run but you are limited to 4000rpm. That aside these engines will run forever using quality oil and keeping an eye on the oil level, they will use a fair amount if you like 8000rpm
Sticking rear calipers are a known issue, mine sometimes stick when parked for a while but a few pumps of the pedal and they are fine. Clutches are not the strongest and will probably need replacing if the car has done 100k. Gearbox can be notchy when cold but should be very precise once warmed up. changing the oil will help
The ride is fking hard, do not get a car with 19's
Sticking rear calipers are a known issue, mine sometimes stick when parked for a while but a few pumps of the pedal and they are fine. Clutches are not the strongest and will probably need replacing if the car has done 100k. Gearbox can be notchy when cold but should be very precise once warmed up. changing the oil will help
The ride is fking hard, do not get a car with 19's
Mine has generally been reliable for the last 18months. I've had a rear abs sensor fail and I've just had to have the rear main seal done. Mine is far from standard now tho and goes well. -15mm ebiach springs,camber bolts and fast road set up make a big difference. I've also just had a tegiwa 70mm single exit cat back fitted and it has improved mid range power. Great cars I love mine and prefer it to the ep3s I've owned.
Engine wise no, the engines provided are serviced regularly are bulletproof but do burn, the Honda recommendation to check oil at the petrol station each time is a bit excessive but not unwarranted!
Ride is hard sure, but managable. Roof will rust unless its been fixed by honda (need a good honda service history to have it fixed under warranty which sort of pissed me off but suppose thats the terms of the 12 yr warranty).
Personally did not enjoy mine as I'm a more classic honda fan of the 00s. This one has a old engine in a modern chassis (well modern for its time and even today). So I'm considering an S2K. I have a champ white edition but find it pretty ugly as a car overall. Should have thought a bit harder when buying it but was too excited to have a vtec honda.
Ride is hard sure, but managable. Roof will rust unless its been fixed by honda (need a good honda service history to have it fixed under warranty which sort of pissed me off but suppose thats the terms of the 12 yr warranty).
Personally did not enjoy mine as I'm a more classic honda fan of the 00s. This one has a old engine in a modern chassis (well modern for its time and even today). So I'm considering an S2K. I have a champ white edition but find it pretty ugly as a car overall. Should have thought a bit harder when buying it but was too excited to have a vtec honda.
Early cars are prone to 3rd gear syncro issues if they have had a hard life/the box oils isnt kept fresh. If you plan on doing track work you will need a baffled sump or overfill the oil as they can succumb to starvation.
The door seals are also known to leak over time, which is easy enough to spot but not great if left unresolved. As far as I know this too is an early car problem.
Try and get a late model ~2010 as they can from the factory with an LSD
I run a 2007 model as a dedicated track car and have been kicking myself ever since for not finding one with a diff.
The door seals are also known to leak over time, which is easy enough to spot but not great if left unresolved. As far as I know this too is an early car problem.
Try and get a late model ~2010 as they can from the factory with an LSD
I run a 2007 model as a dedicated track car and have been kicking myself ever since for not finding one with a diff.
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