EP3 Type R Running costs
Discussion
Since selling my VX220, Ive been looking at EP3's quite a lot as an everyday runaround. I had one a long time ago, recall getting 37mpg on a motorway run from Liverpool to Stranraer when I bought it, but low 20's when I got it home.
What are these cars like in everyday use? When I had my last one I was a kid, and drove like a dick - I know that they are low geared not motorway cars etc, but I did use the VX for my work commute. Driving will be 90% motorway, with a bit of B Road at each end..
What are these cars like in everyday use? When I had my last one I was a kid, and drove like a dick - I know that they are low geared not motorway cars etc, but I did use the VX for my work commute. Driving will be 90% motorway, with a bit of B Road at each end..
I've had an Ep3 for the last 18 months, I honestly don't pay any attention whatsoever to mpg, I drive it reasonably hard at times and expect 20L of Shell's finest can disappear in 100 odd miles. I also don't find the gearing a problem for motorway driving, it's at around 3500-3800rpm to sit around 75ish.
In terms of reliability if you get a well looked after one there are no major issues so long as you check the oil!!!!! When viewing a Civic make sure you check the oil before starting the car. Listen for a metallic clatter which can be the top timing chain flapping! There are general niggles though, a lot of ep3 have knackered rear calipers, the steering racks can become notchy, anti roll bar bushes an rear springs can fail.
Mine had the timing chain, tensioner an valve adjustment at around 90k, the clutch done at 100k and 4 new calipers. it's on 120k now and all I've done is oil/filter, spark plugs, rocker cover gasket and very soon an abs sensor.
Modifications wise I've put eibach springs(significantly better ride than OEM) , new bushes, droplinks, a Jdm anti roll bar, a facelift steering rack, cat back exhaust, modified intake and swapped to 17x7.5j wheels with 225/45 tyres. It's a cracking little setup for not a lot of money. Sure a lsd would be nice as would a Hondata ECU in order to help coax upwards of 230hp out of it but as it stands its one of the most exciting all round packages in the 2-4k market right now
What I would say is don't get too hung up on getting a Premier or late model in less you are buying at the 4-5k area of the market. At around 3k I looked at a few 2004 type r and found the bodywork to be in worse condition than earlier cars. Mine is a pre facelift 2002 model which never came with arch liners or extra sound deadening in the back which are the two main causes of rot on the arches/end of the sills of so many post 2003 cars.
My pick of the bunch would be a 30th anniversary pre facelift with the full red Recaro.
In terms of reliability if you get a well looked after one there are no major issues so long as you check the oil!!!!! When viewing a Civic make sure you check the oil before starting the car. Listen for a metallic clatter which can be the top timing chain flapping! There are general niggles though, a lot of ep3 have knackered rear calipers, the steering racks can become notchy, anti roll bar bushes an rear springs can fail.
Mine had the timing chain, tensioner an valve adjustment at around 90k, the clutch done at 100k and 4 new calipers. it's on 120k now and all I've done is oil/filter, spark plugs, rocker cover gasket and very soon an abs sensor.
Modifications wise I've put eibach springs(significantly better ride than OEM) , new bushes, droplinks, a Jdm anti roll bar, a facelift steering rack, cat back exhaust, modified intake and swapped to 17x7.5j wheels with 225/45 tyres. It's a cracking little setup for not a lot of money. Sure a lsd would be nice as would a Hondata ECU in order to help coax upwards of 230hp out of it but as it stands its one of the most exciting all round packages in the 2-4k market right now
What I would say is don't get too hung up on getting a Premier or late model in less you are buying at the 4-5k area of the market. At around 3k I looked at a few 2004 type r and found the bodywork to be in worse condition than earlier cars. Mine is a pre facelift 2002 model which never came with arch liners or extra sound deadening in the back which are the two main causes of rot on the arches/end of the sills of so many post 2003 cars.
My pick of the bunch would be a 30th anniversary pre facelift with the full red Recaro.
Had my FN2 for a few years now, average around 32mpg on average on a fairly sedate 20 mile daily commute, tyre prices are very reasonable on 18's and servicing i do myself so again very reasonable
As above they like oil, i run mine on 5w40 as these engines can use alot if you use anything thinner
Bought mine on 48k and its now on 75k(09 plate) all that has broken on mine is the original battery died, front shock failed and now recently the VTEC solenoid unit which is quite rare but happens
On the EP3 access is much easier to the VTEC solenoid as the engine is much further forward than the FN2 so its worth changing the filter as over time they can become clogged and eventually you will 2nd larger cam switch over will not happen:
https://www.tegiwaimports.com/genuine-honda-vtec-s...
Tom @ Tgm sport said they seen quite a few on these over the years become blocked and sometimes like mine just fail. On the FN2 the cam cover, heat shield etc has to come off and took me about 2.5 hours to change the filter but on the EP3 you can get away with leaving the cam cover on. The good news is this fault will not leave you stranded anywhere
As above they like oil, i run mine on 5w40 as these engines can use alot if you use anything thinner
Bought mine on 48k and its now on 75k(09 plate) all that has broken on mine is the original battery died, front shock failed and now recently the VTEC solenoid unit which is quite rare but happens
On the EP3 access is much easier to the VTEC solenoid as the engine is much further forward than the FN2 so its worth changing the filter as over time they can become clogged and eventually you will 2nd larger cam switch over will not happen:
https://www.tegiwaimports.com/genuine-honda-vtec-s...
Tom @ Tgm sport said they seen quite a few on these over the years become blocked and sometimes like mine just fail. On the FN2 the cam cover, heat shield etc has to come off and took me about 2.5 hours to change the filter but on the EP3 you can get away with leaving the cam cover on. The good news is this fault will not leave you stranded anywhere
I sold my VX220 in July 2017 after 8 years of ownership. I bought my EP3 Premier Edition July 2019, so effectively only a few months under the belt.
What I’ve noticed so far regarding running costs. The EP3 isn’t as frugal on petrol, a combination of additional weight and an engine that needs to be rev’ed to get the car to move means it’s probably 10mpg down. Also, oil is also more of a consumable within the K20 engine than my Z22SE, again, the nature of the K20 engine.
Parts costs are dwarfed for the EP3, almost everything is a lot cheaper and more importantly, generally still available, whereas for the VX it was a constant concern, particularly how parts were becoming difficult to get your hands on at all.
As a rough guide, I’ve just replaced the rear callipers, discs and pads for less than £200 (all OEM or Pagid).
As for the cars themselves. The VX was always an event to drive, people would stop you in the car park and want to talk about it or sit in it. The EP3 on the other hand has an awful image problem (think 25 year old males and younger, in caps and listening to dreadful music) The VX was amazing between April and June, anything other than that and it’s was either too hot or far too cold. The EP3 on the other hand is something you could have fun in all year around. I’ve never had the fear with the EP3 of “I’m not sure if the car will get me there”, whereas the VX was a constant worry of when and how it would break down. (13 break downs on a Euro trip through France and Italy, mostly the same issue over and over)
I’ve been a bit disappointed with the steering feel of the Honda, it really needs a quicker steering rack, it’s far too lazy for the nature of the engine. I had my VX suspension fully refreshed, and got it setup almost to the point of telepathy, it just did B roads effortlessly.
What I’ve noticed so far regarding running costs. The EP3 isn’t as frugal on petrol, a combination of additional weight and an engine that needs to be rev’ed to get the car to move means it’s probably 10mpg down. Also, oil is also more of a consumable within the K20 engine than my Z22SE, again, the nature of the K20 engine.
Parts costs are dwarfed for the EP3, almost everything is a lot cheaper and more importantly, generally still available, whereas for the VX it was a constant concern, particularly how parts were becoming difficult to get your hands on at all.
As a rough guide, I’ve just replaced the rear callipers, discs and pads for less than £200 (all OEM or Pagid).
As for the cars themselves. The VX was always an event to drive, people would stop you in the car park and want to talk about it or sit in it. The EP3 on the other hand has an awful image problem (think 25 year old males and younger, in caps and listening to dreadful music) The VX was amazing between April and June, anything other than that and it’s was either too hot or far too cold. The EP3 on the other hand is something you could have fun in all year around. I’ve never had the fear with the EP3 of “I’m not sure if the car will get me there”, whereas the VX was a constant worry of when and how it would break down. (13 break downs on a Euro trip through France and Italy, mostly the same issue over and over)
I’ve been a bit disappointed with the steering feel of the Honda, it really needs a quicker steering rack, it’s far too lazy for the nature of the engine. I had my VX suspension fully refreshed, and got it setup almost to the point of telepathy, it just did B roads effortlessly.
You can probably expect to average around 30mpg across a mix of driving when driven sensibly, they're not motorway cars as the gears are short to keep it in the powerband. There are some ways to help this if you so desire, longer 6th gears are available etc.
Parts are readily available and being a Honda, they are quite reliable.
I would imagine it wont be quite as good on the twisties as a VX but there are a plethora of handling upgrades available if required.
Oh, and on a side note the turning circle is not the best for a hatchback.
To sum it up: MPG is reasonable, reliable, parts readily available, plenty of mods to choose from.
Parts are readily available and being a Honda, they are quite reliable.
I would imagine it wont be quite as good on the twisties as a VX but there are a plethora of handling upgrades available if required.
Oh, and on a side note the turning circle is not the best for a hatchback.
To sum it up: MPG is reasonable, reliable, parts readily available, plenty of mods to choose from.
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