Trying to buy an ep3 - rust

[s2tommi]

Hi all,

I recently sold my s2000 after 6 years of ownership! Im looking to buy an ep3 to replace it

I read in the buyers guide that rust suggest a crashed or repainted car, is that still the case? Or have these gone the same way as many hondas seem to? (certianly spent far too much money trying to keep it at bay on the s2000)

Thanks
Tom

[designforlife]

They are getting to the age now where a lot of the UKDM cars are starting to rust here and there, regardless of paint or crash damage.

Try to find a recently imported JDM model if you want a guaranteed clean shell and chassis.

[s2tommi]

Thank you

I would love a JDM version but im trying to replace the S2000 with a bit of a budget fun car as I dont get the time to enjoy it as much.

Ideally looking in the 3-4k region, and dont mind a bit of rust as long as I know it's age related and not crash/poor repair related!

[designforlife]

Should be able to find one then, plenty of cherished ones have had limited winter use, which will help the rust situation. £4k is a decent budget for a clean UK model, and not too far off the bottom end of the JDM model prices.

Pay particular attention to the sills and rear arches.

[Butter Face]

Mine's a 52 1ith 140k and it's got no rust at all.

I don't think it's endemic, I haven't seen that many rusty ones at all compared to the older generation.

How much are you looking to spend?

[Ellb123]

Yep, typical Honda rust problems

Facelift cars (03+) have a kinda fabric material rear arch liner that likes to hold water and rust the rear aches, plenty photos on the EP3 Type R owners FB page, I'd definately be checking this on a car I was looking to purchase.

Generally, sills / arches and boot floors are the places to check, slam panels can be a good indicator too. They normally rot from the inside out, so if the rear arch is rusting, the inner arch will normally be a lot worse.

4K is a good budget though for a nice EP3, a very nice facelift or a premier edition is well within that budget, theres plenty good ones out there but also plenty rot boxes. At that kinda price range though you should be fine if you do the right checks.

[s2tommi]

Butter Face said:

Mine's a 52 1ith 140k and it's got no rust at all.

I don't think it's endemic, I haven't seen that many rusty ones at all compared to the older generation.

How much are you looking to spend?

Somewhere in the region of 3-4k

Sounds like the good ones are out there then!

[s2tommi]

Ellb123 said:

Yep, typical Honda rust problems

Facelift cars (03+) have a kinda fabric material rear arch liner that likes to hold water and rust the rear aches, plenty photos on the EP3 Type R owners FB page, I'd definately be checking this on a car I was looking to purchase.

Generally, sills / arches and boot floors are the places to check, slam panels can be a good indicator too. They normally rot from the inside out, so if the rear arch is rusting, the inner arch will normally be a lot worse.

4K is a good budget though for a nice EP3, a very nice facelift or a premier edition is well within that budget, theres plenty good ones out there but also plenty rot boxes. At that kinda price range though you should be fine if you do the right checks.

Thank you some good information there for me to bare in mind when viewing. Nice to know my budget is sensible

[Composite Guru]

I had 2 EP3 from new and the common place for rust was along the top of the door where the seal rail was welded. Water got trapped in there and started rusting pretty much from the outset as the paint never got into the small detail when spraying.

[Norfolkandchance]

I bought a rusty EP3!

It had lived inteh far North all of its life but there was rust where the floor met the sills on both sides. So yes, you do need to check.

Still bought it though, because I wanted a black 30th anniversary like I had from new. Had it welded by a local guy then rust proofed by a professional firm. Welding cost £350 I think.

If you are spending 3-4k then it definitely shouldn't be rusty though.

[s2tommi]

Thanks all for the advice! I actually bought one yesterday!

[Turbodicky]

The pre-facelift models (01-03 plate) seem to be more solid than the later models. The facelift models came with carpet rear arch liners which held moisture and accelerated rot. Worth taking a prod around that area if looking at a facelift model. Sills are usually not too bad. Check the spare wheel well for water, rear light seals can go on these and water leaks in and sits in there eventually rotting it away.