Honda CL1 Euro R

[MDMA .]

Anyone got one? Keep looking at them and fancy one for the garage/long term keeper.

[NateWM]

Had 2 and now own an Accord Type R. What do you want to know?

[MDMA .]

Few things really. What are they like? Reliable? Part supply, is it still good? I keep looking at what Torque GT have had and really wouldn't mind a white one to put away for a few years (occasional use).

[NateWM]

MDMA . said:

Few things really. What are they like? Reliable? Part supply, is it still good? I keep looking at what Torque GT have had and really wouldn't mind a white one to put away for a few years (occasional use).

I've always liked to describe CL1/CH1's as a jack of all trades, master of none car. They can do literally anything you ask of them, and do it well. First things first, is you need to ask what you want from the car and see what suits you best. For example, the CL1 is still a very capable and quick car in the right hands, but is more of a cruiser than the CH1. Reason being, the CL1 is full of electrics and creature comforts, sound deadening etc, and also has electric steering and a slightly smaller width. As a result, they aren't quite as capable as a CH1 as the Type R is fully stripped and lacks most creature comforts. However, both can fulfill daily duties very well and I have regularly taken both of mine on roadtrips with no complaints.

Reliability is typical nineties/early noughties Honda. The drivetrain is pretty much bulletproof, with rust being the main killer of these cars. If rust is ok, the only thing to really look out for on the drivetrain is making sure the cambelt has been changed on time and that they replaced the hydraulic tensioner (not uncommon for people to reuse this which is a big no-no!) and check the gearbox for 5th gear and reverse crunching. Sticky rear calipers can also be an issue, but overall they are happy to keep going with regular maintenance and servicing. Parts can be got for both quite easily and as the CL1 and CH1 are nearly identical underneath, you can normally use parts off either model and it will do the job for you.

In short, if you want a more comfortable but quick car, go for the CL1. If you want a more capable b road blaster, go for the CH1. Values on both are on the rise and if you can find a genuine rust free clean example, I have no doubt that they will be going the same way as DC2s and breaking the 10k mark in a few years.

[MDMA .]

Thanks for the reply. It is the JDM CL1 Euro R I prefer tbh. There's something about them that just look right. A few choice Mugen parts on and I think will make a great, depreciation proof toy

[NateWM]

I do also like the look of the CL1, especially with the Mugen kit. I had a red one with full Mugen kit and wheels and it was a superb looking thing. Ended up selling it and it went to a guy in Scotland.

In terms of depreciation, you certainly wont lose money on one especially if it is the CL1. Even CH1's are going well now. I paid £1300 for mine and got very lucky with the fact that the used car dealer had no idea of the spec list or it's rareness. Looking at the market these days, I wouldn't accept any less than £5k as rust free examples are nearly non existent these days.

[MDMA .]

Yes, I think a good, rust free, fresh import will be a pretty decent buy. They do seem to be creeping up in price. The last one Torque GT had was 7k. I don't mind paying for the right one if it's what I end up pursuing.

[dai1983]

I like them too and have owned an ATR. A CL7 isn’t that much more expensive, can be found in Japan easier and has a 6 speed box. The 2.2 engine is awesome though and loved revving it all the way round.