HONDA CRV 2.2 DTi EX 2007with 143k miles Advise if worth buy

[Giannir]

Hi All

I found a CRV 2007 DTi with 143k miles.

Timing chain never been replaced but one owner for the last 10 years and going through the paperwork seems services has been done regularly.

driving the car no noise is heard. A bit of rush all around the exhaust pipe underneath.

Asking price is £3000.

is the price worth taking the risk or the car is overpriced?

What can be wrong or need to be double checked with this car?

Many thanks

[Giannir]

No one?

[krismccloy]

Any history of clutch and flywheel? Could end up being near a £1000 job. (Slipping and or juddering)

No DPF filter to worry about which is good. The 2.2 engines and gearboxes are a strong package.

I would check for rust in general when buying one of these, could have been through all sorts including the sea. I am looking at these
at the moment too, seems a reasonable price for mileage.

My father bought a 2.2 Civic with 178k on it last year as a daily runner, his second one. Engine and box are great, dampers and drop links not so good.

Edited by krismccloy on Tuesday 9th April 09:11

[Nigel Worc's]

I've just bought a 2008 one with 107K for £4250.

It is a nice car and thankfully the dealer has been very honourable, so far it has needed clutch and flywheel,battery and alternator clutch.

[mw88]

Can't speak for the CRV, or the 2.2 Diesel but for general Honda reliability I've got an 03 Accord with the 2.4 Petrol engine in that's pushing 277k.

With the 2.2 Diesel, other than the clutch/DMF which can be a bit expensive I don't think there's much else that causes a problem.

Depending on budget, It's probably worth getting the timing chain done.

[Giannir]

I did the test drive and the car seemed to be alright but did not trusted the dealer as was someone just starting the business and did not like him

I have now put my eyes on the 2007 model and find few with less mileage around 100 -115k

I understand the clutch and flywheel are the big worriers and the very expensive thing. How I can double check if the clutch is starting to go or the flywheel need attention?

Is the 2007 model running with timing chain? Do I need to replace it if the car has more than 110k miles? How much would be the cost

Thanks

[Giannir]

I did the test drive and the car seemed to be alright but did not trusted the dealer as was someone just starting the business and did not like him

I have now put my eyes on the 2007 model and find few with less mileage around 100 -115k

I understand the clutch and flywheel are the big worriers and the very expensive thing. How I can double check if the clutch is starting to go or the flywheel need attention?

Is the 2007 model running with timing chain? Do I need to replace it if the car has more than 110k miles? How much would be the cost

Thanks

[ninjag]

Giannir said:

I did the test drive and the car seemed to be alright but did not trusted the dealer as was someone just starting the business and did not like him

I have now put my eyes on the 2007 model and find few with less mileage around 100 -115k

I understand the clutch and flywheel are the big worriers and the very expensive thing. How I can double check if the clutch is starting to go or the flywheel need attention?

Is the 2007 model running with timing chain? Do I need to replace it if the car has more than 110k miles? How much would be the cost

Thanks

They all run timing chains. I think around 2010/11 the engine was upgraded from iCTDI to iDTEC, the latter have DPFs.

Good way to check the clutch is to pull away carefully in 2nd or 3rd gear and see if it slips (the revs will shoot up). Also, do some low speed full lock circles front and back and listen out for noises under the car. If it makes noise then the rear diff fluid needs changing - not a big deal but you do need a big syringe / pump to get the fluid in and it MUST be Honda fluid only (very important).

When it comes to Honda the EX spec is the best to go for. The 3rd Gen CRV which you are looking at have brilliant leather seats, the last of the ones you sit in rather than sit on, if you know what I mean.

Air Filter and Cabin filter checks are quick and easy and gives you a good indication if it's been looked after. Cabin filter is accessed by squeezing sides of glove box lid so it drops and then push the clips on the filter cover located behind.

[Giannir]

Hi,

Thanks for the tips.

Apologize for the silly question but not being a native English sometime I still struggle to perfectly understand technical thing.

When you say pull away carefully in 2nd and 3rd gear and see if slips with the engine rev shooting up. You mean with the car not moving, insert the 2nd or 3rd gear and try to see if car moves or if the engine revs?

I fully agree the EX model with sun roof, leather seats and navigator really seems to be to another level comapred with an SE. I think would worth spend 600/700 pound more and have it on the car.

[Giannir]

I keep viewing cars but today was very disappointing. Few 2007 completely full of rust. One was not starting and the dealer said the battery was gone. weird....

What about the 2010 DTEC model? I heard has got DPF and is not urban friendly.

Could someone help me with any DTEC experience as I decided to extend my search to a more younger model too.

Thanks

[ninjag]

Car will /should move but revs will go up higher than expected if clutch is on its way out.

I'd avoid IDTEC unless you've got some longer trips mixed in.

[Giannir]

Yes the idea is to mix some 150/200miles trip in and of course some short trip around the town. Is the DPF causing a lot of problem or investing on a clean up would risolve the issue?

Went viewing a 2010 DTEC with 123k miles today, the bodywork was fine but once the engine has been turned on from the first rev I saw smoke coming the from radiator area and a lot of white smoke from the exhaust pipe. I have then tried to steer on the side and with full steer, there was a noise and the car was forcing to move. I walked away. The dealer promised me to check it but to be honest I'm not planning to go back. What could be the problem with that?

[ninjag]

Giannir said:

Yes the idea is to mix some 150/200miles trip in and of course some short trip around the town. Is the DPF causing a lot of problem or investing on a clean up would risolve the issue?

Went viewing a 2010 DTEC with 123k miles today, the bodywork was fine but once the engine has been turned on from the first rev I saw smoke coming the from radiator area and a lot of white smoke from the exhaust pipe. I have then tried to steer on the side and with full steer, there was a noise and the car was forcing to move. I walked away. The dealer promised me to check it but to be honest I'm not planning to go back. What could be the problem with that?

Sounds like a badly looked after crv. I do wonder if there are people who think that because it's a Honda then they don't need to look after it. That one in particular could be a head gasket problem or something coolant related. The noise when turning is probably the rear fluid having never been changed. I would avoid it.

You'll probably need a good trip at least once a month to passively clean the dpf, maybe more depending on the short trips. I've got a device which reads the soot levels in my car and it was starting to build up but after a 250 mile round trip it was reading as squeaky clean again. I do a 60 mile round trip once a week to keep the soot at bay.

However, I think there was a software problem with the active regen not happening and instead the car just goes into limp home mode. This has literally just happened to my brothers accord and because it wouldn't regen the dpf is being removed for specialist cleaning but it may be too late. Apparently a software update came out but I don't know if it fixed it.

Something to be aware of is that Honda is leaving the UK and whilst this won't have a huge impact on parts it will have an impact on getting help from Honda UK. But then they are so terrible, unhelpful, useless and disloyal to their customers it's not a big deal.

Here's an article I came across which is interesting

https://www.whatcar.com/news/honda-cr-v-diesel-par...

Edited by ninjag on Saturday 20th April 09:02

[Giannir]

Went to view another 2010 DTEC SE model with 111k miles.

Apart from some small scratch, the bodywork was fine. I did the test putting the steering wheel to once side and same noise and car forcing to turn as well. This is the second car with the issue. Is this something fixable with just changing the oil or can be something more serious?

Clutch was still alright. I spotted the engine dirty of oil on the left-hand side near the pulley belt. Not a lot but still dirty

Also during the test drive, the 3rd gear was not easy to be inserted.

Not sure if is the Dtec normal sound but me and the wife noted a noise like a fan or whistle once the boot was open. Is this an issue. I double checked and the radiator fan were both off but the noise was there coming from the engine

Asking price 5K non-negotiable?

What would you do if you were on my shoes? take it or keep looking

Thanks

Edited by Giannir on Monday 22 April 14:02

[ninjag]

I would be hoping a rear diff flush and fresh fluid and also a transmission fluid change would sort those two issues as they are both reliable components, but there would always be that worry.

When you say the boot was open, did you mean bonnet instead? (auto correct?) when talking about the whistling? Hard to say obviously but my first thought s turbo related. If the other fluids (apparently) haven't been kept up to date then will the rest of the car been looked after?

What's the mot history like? My gut would be saying walk away, there's plenty of choice out there. It's a crv your only choice?

[Giannir]

Hi, Yes I mean the bonnet, Apologize for my technical English.

My first thought was exactly the same. I thought there is something wrong with the turbo but was not sure. What can be wrong with a turbo making noise at only 800 rpm?

I had a test drive and find very difficult to engage the 3rd gear as well.

Is this a sign of another issue?

I like the CRV and the shape. Also has got a big boot and it`s comfortable for a big guy like me 6.10

I`m open to any car with similar shape but also reliable. Any suggestion?

To be honest I`m losing my faith with the CRV as so far I have been viewing around 10 cars and always find issue and walked away.

[ninjag]

I do feel your pain, when I was looking a CRV it was the 4th gen and I was amazed at how bad condition many of them were despite being only 4 years old and low mileage. Some very rough sounding engines, makes me wonder if people think that because it's a Honda then it doesn't need to be looked after. This was a main Honda dealer as well and one of them even had mold on the seat belt.

Does it have to be an SUV? Many of them don't have boots any bigger than a decent estate. I'm wondering if you may have more luck looking at a Volvo or something similar?

[Giannir]

You are not going to believe me but I find mold on the rear seat belt on the car we viewed yesterday. My wife was incredulous and double checked twice.

How you can get mold on a car?????

I found another 2007 EX but the dealer said He only have service stamps till 2013 and maybe the rest was done privately. I don't think someone used the car and not doing the services from 2013. Any tips to check how old is the oil or other fluid?

Another thing most of this car has one key? do you know how much would be to make a second one?

Thanks

[ninjag]

I tend to walk if it's only got one key to be honest.

[Giannir]

Any experience with Hyundai ix35 1.7 CRDi 16v Style 2WD?