Cheap r type query
Discussion
2003 civic r type , 124k , mot runs out end of july asking £1500.
mot history shows both rear inner suspension mounting areas are corroded but not excessive , play in suspension ball joint and corroded brake pipe .
Simply is it worth a punt , it's in the next town to me so i could view it with £1000 cash and he takes it or leaves it .
mot history shows both rear inner suspension mounting areas are corroded but not excessive , play in suspension ball joint and corroded brake pipe .
Simply is it worth a punt , it's in the next town to me so i could view it with £1000 cash and he takes it or leaves it .
Butter Face said:
I'd say worth a look at that money, may need to save it with some welding in the future.
is it worth 1500 if he won't budge ?list of things to check -
timing chain been replaced
is it tappety , any proof of valve clearance adjustment
does the car feel like it wants to stall when warm - possible idle control valve
does 2nd gear crunch when cold
is the clutch heavy - probably needs replacing
are any of these things deal breakers ? like if there's no proof of timing chain or valve adjustment should i walk away or not pay more than a grand ?
I'd view it as a potential bargain/parts car @ £1500.
If it fails it's MOT in spectacular fashion due to rot/other currently unknown issues then you can still get the majority of your money simply back by selling the engine, gearbox, front seats, steering wheel & alloys.
I didn't pay a great deal more last year for a 2002 Type r with AC+leather+fogs, on 108k, 12mths mot, Honda history inc chains, valve adjustment, new clutch, new callipers/pads/discs all round, new lower arms, new rear bushes in the 18months before I purchased the car.
Stretch the budget to over £2k and you will get a far better example
Another point on earlier cars is the steering rack - check for a knocking noise when turning lock/lock and a reluctance to self centre or it being easier to turn one way than the other. A new rack slider (£25from Honda +£20 worth of nuts/bolts/lock nuts etc to do a "proper" job) is likely to sort it , you dont have to spend several hundred quid to have the job done at Honda who insist on a new rack.
If it fails it's MOT in spectacular fashion due to rot/other currently unknown issues then you can still get the majority of your money simply back by selling the engine, gearbox, front seats, steering wheel & alloys.
I didn't pay a great deal more last year for a 2002 Type r with AC+leather+fogs, on 108k, 12mths mot, Honda history inc chains, valve adjustment, new clutch, new callipers/pads/discs all round, new lower arms, new rear bushes in the 18months before I purchased the car.
Stretch the budget to over £2k and you will get a far better example
Another point on earlier cars is the steering rack - check for a knocking noise when turning lock/lock and a reluctance to self centre or it being easier to turn one way than the other. A new rack slider (£25from Honda +£20 worth of nuts/bolts/lock nuts etc to do a "proper" job) is likely to sort it , you dont have to spend several hundred quid to have the job done at Honda who insist on a new rack.
I'm going to look at it this afternoon.
Seller says there selling it because she's due to have a baby in 7 weeks and the cars not suitable ( she has other kids )
didn't think the chain or tappets have been adjusted but said the arches have been replaced ! ?
I think i'll just plonk £1000 in front of her and see if she goes for it.
Seller says there selling it because she's due to have a baby in 7 weeks and the cars not suitable ( she has other kids )
didn't think the chain or tappets have been adjusted but said the arches have been replaced ! ?
I think i'll just plonk £1000 in front of her and see if she goes for it.
That was a wasted journey but quite enjoyable.
Clearly rusty , engine was warm when I turned up and the oil was only half way on dip stick with warm engine.
I queried the wheel arches what they’d actually done ( I’ve had a Mazda bongo repaired and bubble back thru , turned out they’d only cut out the outer skin not the inner as well hence why the rust came back ) all he knew was the rust was cut out .
The engine did sound decent but it was warm and the oil was low , also couldn’t check for 2nd gear crunch as it wasn’t cold.
Pretty much made my mind up I wasn’t having it so offered him £1000 he said no and we were done .
Clearly rusty , engine was warm when I turned up and the oil was only half way on dip stick with warm engine.
I queried the wheel arches what they’d actually done ( I’ve had a Mazda bongo repaired and bubble back thru , turned out they’d only cut out the outer skin not the inner as well hence why the rust came back ) all he knew was the rust was cut out .
The engine did sound decent but it was warm and the oil was low , also couldn’t check for 2nd gear crunch as it wasn’t cold.
Pretty much made my mind up I wasn’t having it so offered him £1000 he said no and we were done .
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