Ep3 Type R screeching from brakes?
Discussion
Hello lads. Iv had my 03 civic since 2009 and it's been running fine. Maybe about 5 years ago I changed all the brake discs and pads myself, I'm mechanically good with diy etc. Recently last week my driver side rear wheel had started to make a screeching sound even in reverse but worse. I noticed the noise happen more when weight was transferred to that wheel whenever I turned left while driving. When applying the breaks the noise disappears. It's been a week now and the noise is constant driving in a straight line. Now if my understanding of how brakes work is correct, shouldn't this noise be happening when applying the brakes? Is it something else? I don't abuse my brakes. Pads have got plenty of thickness and the discs barely have any signs of wear- hardly any lip showing
Edited by Dr-Sie on Tuesday 21st February 15:41
Edited by Dr-Sie on Tuesday 21st February 15:42
I would go with stuck caliper as well. Another symptom is a vibration through the wheel at speed as the caliper heats up.
Pull the caliper carrier bolt, rotate the caliper up and see if you can move the piston with bleed screw open. You will probably find it has stuck.
One trick is to take it off the car with the brake connected, then give the break pedal a couple of pushes make the piston move out further but not all the way out. Disconnect the main banjo bolt, You can take it out and put it on a workbench, clean any rust off the caliper piston with fine grade emery cloth, and lubricate with red rubber grease
http://www.redrubbergrease.com/tips-how-to-brake-c...
Then beat it with a rubber mallet and a suitable drift to push it back in, before reinstalling on the car and bleeding the brakes. Also check the caliper pins on the two carrier bolts slide smoothly and if not repeat above procedure on them.
This is usually only a stop gap procedure, normally best practice is to simply replace the entire caliper with an exchange unit from brake parts online or similar which is relatively cheap and simple.
Pull the caliper carrier bolt, rotate the caliper up and see if you can move the piston with bleed screw open. You will probably find it has stuck.
One trick is to take it off the car with the brake connected, then give the break pedal a couple of pushes make the piston move out further but not all the way out. Disconnect the main banjo bolt, You can take it out and put it on a workbench, clean any rust off the caliper piston with fine grade emery cloth, and lubricate with red rubber grease
http://www.redrubbergrease.com/tips-how-to-brake-c...
Then beat it with a rubber mallet and a suitable drift to push it back in, before reinstalling on the car and bleeding the brakes. Also check the caliper pins on the two carrier bolts slide smoothly and if not repeat above procedure on them.
This is usually only a stop gap procedure, normally best practice is to simply replace the entire caliper with an exchange unit from brake parts online or similar which is relatively cheap and simple.
Edited by ExPat2B on Tuesday 21st February 16:01
Last weekend my EP3 developed exactly the same symptoms as the OP's car, albeit with the nearside rear wheel rather than the offside. The screeching noise was intermittent, and the grinding metal on metal noise seemed to go away if you turned a corner or went over a bump. Fortunately I was only a couple of miles from home at the time.
Problem was due to sticking caliper also - I've had this sorted today, along with new rear discs and pads fitted.
Problem was due to sticking caliper also - I've had this sorted today, along with new rear discs and pads fitted.
I had my n/s front caliper sticking in Dec. I knew it was that (it was hard to push the car, vibration at speed and it got v hot). Booked into my local Honda dealer who sorted it. All fine now and no damage to the discs of pads. Its common on these - but did not realise the rear calipers can stick too.
Hello lads. Just a few days after my last post I made a video of the problem that I was getting it's in the link. I still haven't fixed it yet, looking after my kids all the time and Iv only just had tools, bits and bobs delivered through amazon. However I did take the wheel off and there was less scraping but it's back to square one. https://www.dropbox.com/s/6ydrdun8v4ckli4/Video%20...
Pick a quiet time and go for a drive over various road types, and get up to speed - do all this without touching the brakes then stop as gently as you can - preferably without touching the brakes) and feel each disc.
Residual heat, if any, will give you a good indication of a sticking caliper.
Obviously this technique requires a bit of planning and quiet roads!
Residual heat, if any, will give you a good indication of a sticking caliper.
Obviously this technique requires a bit of planning and quiet roads!
Yh there was definitely some heat transferred to the alloy. I had a pretty good idea what the issue was so I bought lubes beforehand etc. It was the bottom sliding bolt on the calliper that had a stiffy. Cleaned it up, silicone greased it, jobs a good'un. The inner side pads were badly worn uneven, the wear indicator was causing the noise. Went to Euro carparts yesterday, got there at 4pm and they were bloody closing up the store. Iv ordered complete discs and pads for all 4 wheels off eBay now. Had to do a temporary cowboy job by filing the wear indicator down by a few mill and slapping them back on. The piston looks like it was working in good condition. It was pumping in and out with the brake pedal. And I screwed it all the way back in. I also may have a slight warp in the disc, it's not visible as I turn it on the hub. Getting small amounts of rubbing from the pads but that could just be the crap pad I put back on. Drives well for now.
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