Any decent ITR DC2 buyers guides?
Discussion
As above (not heard many problems about head gaskets though) but also check leading edge of bonnet,behind mirrors and boot floor for rust. Seat bolster surface material, although foam beneath can be replaced quite easily. Check for exhaust smoke in vtec. Rear calipers often seize. Red cars can fade to pink. Biggest problem by far as you already know is rust in rear arches. Any rust showing externally below the rear quarter stickers means bodywork bills. Buy the best car you can afford, with good service history. I doubt you will lose any money. Brilliant car. Much respect to those that drive them everyday though.
Had a quick google and found these, not sure if they are of any help!
these are a few common things to look for:
Ensure electric radio aerial opens and closes (water can seize up the metal areial and also the motors can pack up)
Drivers seat bolster wears and can rip the seat fabric.
Ensure that the RED ignition key is available when buying (these cost from a dealer and you are stumped without it for immobiliser or ignition repairs
Exhausts rattle (loose heatshielding)
Hope this little bit helps.
cheers, rob
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=2&a...
http://www.civiclife.net/board/topic/11270-things-...
http://reallymeansounds.com/forum/threads/dc2-inte...
these are a few common things to look for:
Ensure electric radio aerial opens and closes (water can seize up the metal areial and also the motors can pack up)
Drivers seat bolster wears and can rip the seat fabric.
Ensure that the RED ignition key is available when buying (these cost from a dealer and you are stumped without it for immobiliser or ignition repairs
Exhausts rattle (loose heatshielding)
Hope this little bit helps.
cheers, rob
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=2&a...
http://www.civiclife.net/board/topic/11270-things-...
http://reallymeansounds.com/forum/threads/dc2-inte...
Still one of the best drivers' cars ever made.
I'll add an odd fault. I bought a second DC2 to mothball because they are so good. It was terrible in the corners, which is the antithesis of a DC2. Turned out to be the diff had gone. Very low mile car with what appeared to be sensible owners. So make sure the diff works. It's a big part of the magic.
I'll add an odd fault. I bought a second DC2 to mothball because they are so good. It was terrible in the corners, which is the antithesis of a DC2. Turned out to be the diff had gone. Very low mile car with what appeared to be sensible owners. So make sure the diff works. It's a big part of the magic.
Alpinestars said:
Still one of the best drivers' cars ever made.
I'll add an odd fault. I bought a second DC2 to mothball because they are so good. It was terrible in the corners, which is the antithesis of a DC2. Turned out to be the diff had gone. Very low mile car with what appeared to be sensible owners. So make sure the diff works. It's a big part of the magic.
The diff had "gone"??? I'll add an odd fault. I bought a second DC2 to mothball because they are so good. It was terrible in the corners, which is the antithesis of a DC2. Turned out to be the diff had gone. Very low mile car with what appeared to be sensible owners. So make sure the diff works. It's a big part of the magic.
Possibly the gearbox was knackered in a previous ownership and replaced with a non LSD box? If the diff broke, which it would take a lot to do, it would be making some nasty noises!
dannyDC2 said:
The diff had "gone"???
Possibly the gearbox was knackered in a previous ownership and replaced with a non LSD box? If the diff broke, which it would take a lot to do, it would be making some nasty noises!
I must admit it was all very strange. Gearbox sweet as a nut, no noises, car had done 20 odd k miles and looked like it. I even took it to TGM and TDI. The main guy at TGM, who's name I can't remember now, said it couldn't be the diff as they never go. He checked the markings on the gearbox to make sure it was stamped with an LSD marking, and confirmed how immaculate the car was as well. He drove it and said it felt like a non LSD car. Anyway, I had it changed despite no one being convinced it was the diff and bingo, all sorted. I never asked the garage to open up and investigate why the old diff didn't work. Possibly the gearbox was knackered in a previous ownership and replaced with a non LSD box? If the diff broke, which it would take a lot to do, it would be making some nasty noises!
Probably a stupid question, but how can you test if the diff is working? Other than driving it and feeling it that is? I assume given its age (both number of years and age of its design) that it should be quite noticeable? I've only driven a front wheel drive with an e-diff (for want of a better expression) & though you can feel it you have to be pressing on quite hard, not sure I'd want to do that on a test drive.
acme said:
Probably a stupid question, but how can you test if the diff is working? Other than driving it and feeling it that is? I assume given its age (both number of years and age of its design) that it should be quite noticeable? I've only driven a front wheel drive with an e-diff (for want of a better expression) & though you can feel it you have to be pressing on quite hard, not sure I'd want to do that on a test drive.
When I thought I'd broke my LSD I tested it by leaving 11s up my street. Neighbours weren't happy, wouldn't recommend. You should be able to feel it exiting tight turns, full throttle.
You would have to drive quite aggressively.
Honestly though, the best thing would be to just look on the gearbox as LSD boxes have LSD engraved on them.
I'll add though, that in 4 years of being involved with these cars, I've never heard of anyone buying one without an LSD.
dannyDC2 said:
When I thought I'd broke my LSD I tested it by leaving 11s up my street. Neighbours weren't happy, wouldn't recommend.
You should be able to feel it exiting tight turns, full throttle.
You would have to drive quite aggressively.
Honestly though, the best thing would be to just look on the gearbox as LSD boxes have LSD engraved on them.
I'll add though, that in 4 years of being involved with these cars, I've never heard of anyone buying one without an LSD.
Thanks Danny. I'm assuming it's a bit more aggressive than the E-diff I have on my daily, which was quite odd the first time it seemingly pushed me round the bend!!You should be able to feel it exiting tight turns, full throttle.
You would have to drive quite aggressively.
Honestly though, the best thing would be to just look on the gearbox as LSD boxes have LSD engraved on them.
I'll add though, that in 4 years of being involved with these cars, I've never heard of anyone buying one without an LSD.
One other question re arches, I seem to remember seeing a post a few years back where somebody compared pics of arches on the outside and what they looked like from the inside, peering down into them, it wasn't pretty! How easy is it to remove the interior plastics so you can shove a torch down there? I suspect a seller would be concerned, but having looked at a lot of ads over the years with arch pics it's clear a LOT of them suffer from this...
Cheers
Cheers
acme said:
Thanks Danny. I'm assuming it's a bit more aggressive than the E-diff I have on my daily, which was quite odd the first time it seemingly pushed me round the bend!!
Pretty similar, I suspect, albeit probably more noticeable on the DC2.Easiest way - 2nd gear roundabout, go in keen but not too hot, and accelerate AS SOON as you've got lock on. Most noticeable if you're using a fair few revs (close to VTEC / early VTEC probably best). You should feel the car tighten its line ever-so-slightly.
I likened it to the cartoons where they stick a hand out of the window, hook a lamp-post, and swing around 90/180 degrees.
havoc said:
acme said:
Thanks Danny. I'm assuming it's a bit more aggressive than the E-diff I have on my daily, which was quite odd the first time it seemingly pushed me round the bend!!
Pretty similar, I suspect, albeit probably more noticeable on the DC2.Easiest way - 2nd gear roundabout, go in keen but not too hot, and accelerate AS SOON as you've got lock on. Most noticeable if you're using a fair few revs (close to VTEC / early VTEC probably best). You should feel the car tighten its line ever-so-slightly.
I likened it to the cartoons where they stick a hand out of the window, hook a lamp-post, and swing around 90/180 degrees.
It's quite an aggressive diff on the DC2, so much so that it requires a touch of opposite lock on some bends. On the car where the diff wasn't working, it just understeered. It'll be very obvious as soon as you try to corner hard on a roundabout. If it doesn't turn in hard, you may have a problem.
But, as others have pointed out, it's not at all common for the diff to go.
Potentially serious, for sure, and definitely worth getting sorted sooner rather than later.
One way to check is to remove a rear speaker, stick a small camera in the hole and take a couple of photos vertically downwards. Will show what the inside of the lower sill looks like.
To be honest, repairing both rear sills is probably about a grand of work, which is arguably no different to getting the synchro sorted - the other major weak point.
Rear calipers can seize up, gear linkage can be sloppy if the previous owner has been rough with the changes, and you can get rust on the bonnet above the catch area. Otherwise they're robust. Exhausts are probably getting tired by now, as are dampers on all bar the lowest mileage cars, but that's general wear on a modern classic, not a weakness.
One way to check is to remove a rear speaker, stick a small camera in the hole and take a couple of photos vertically downwards. Will show what the inside of the lower sill looks like.
To be honest, repairing both rear sills is probably about a grand of work, which is arguably no different to getting the synchro sorted - the other major weak point.
Rear calipers can seize up, gear linkage can be sloppy if the previous owner has been rough with the changes, and you can get rust on the bonnet above the catch area. Otherwise they're robust. Exhausts are probably getting tired by now, as are dampers on all bar the lowest mileage cars, but that's general wear on a modern classic, not a weakness.
acme said:
Thanks for the diff replies, appreciated.
Am I right in thinking even a small sign of rust on the outside of an arch is an indication of serious problems inside?
I suspect that only the cleanest cars will have no rust at all around the arches. . But any signs of rust should be investigated further. Am I right in thinking even a small sign of rust on the outside of an arch is an indication of serious problems inside?
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