2002 Civic Type-R (what to look for)
Discussion
Hi,
I have never owned a Civic Type-R before and know little about them (other than they are a good steer and I assume for the most part quite reliable)?
I Have just seen one for sale though, at a garage local to me for a price (if it’s a good car) I would be happy to pay.
However, before I call the dealer up – I want to arm myself with some prudent questions to ask, and if I go and view I would like to know what kind of jobs/expenditure I should be looking at evidence for.
The car has covered 92.000 and has a fresh MOT (don’t know yet if there are any advisories from the MOT)….
Do these cars get a little tired by this kind of mileage? Are they belt or chain driven? How long do clutches last for etc, etc.
Normally I would spend half a day researching on the internet – But I am at work all day and really want to make contact with the dealer today with a view to going to see the car first thing tomorrow morning.
Kind regards in advance of any information….
Rich.
I have never owned a Civic Type-R before and know little about them (other than they are a good steer and I assume for the most part quite reliable)?
I Have just seen one for sale though, at a garage local to me for a price (if it’s a good car) I would be happy to pay.
However, before I call the dealer up – I want to arm myself with some prudent questions to ask, and if I go and view I would like to know what kind of jobs/expenditure I should be looking at evidence for.
The car has covered 92.000 and has a fresh MOT (don’t know yet if there are any advisories from the MOT)….
Do these cars get a little tired by this kind of mileage? Are they belt or chain driven? How long do clutches last for etc, etc.
Normally I would spend half a day researching on the internet – But I am at work all day and really want to make contact with the dealer today with a view to going to see the car first thing tomorrow morning.
Kind regards in advance of any information….
Rich.
Hi there.
Sadly the Honda backwater on PH isn't the most active. Hopefully you found Civinfo or TypeROwners or one of the 23 other CTR fora on the web, and have had more success there.
Engine is chain-driven and as long as the oil level is checked is pretty reliable...certainly 92k shouldn't be a bother to it. I'd be checking the chain tensioner though / maybe budgeting for a replacement at that mileage.
Other thoughts? Not owned one to give you specific info, but check clutch age/mileage (depending on how driven they can last from 50k to 100k), also check synchromesh operation - 2nd to 3rd especially, but importantly check on full-bore upshifts.
Best of luck,
M.
Sadly the Honda backwater on PH isn't the most active. Hopefully you found Civinfo or TypeROwners or one of the 23 other CTR fora on the web, and have had more success there.
Engine is chain-driven and as long as the oil level is checked is pretty reliable...certainly 92k shouldn't be a bother to it. I'd be checking the chain tensioner though / maybe budgeting for a replacement at that mileage.
Other thoughts? Not owned one to give you specific info, but check clutch age/mileage (depending on how driven they can last from 50k to 100k), also check synchromesh operation - 2nd to 3rd especially, but importantly check on full-bore upshifts.
Best of luck,
M.
Thanks for the reply....
I managed (though some of the sites you suggest)to ascertain that i should look for some of the following issues:
Steering rack - ideally this will have been replaced under warranty.
2nd gear 'crunching' when cold.
Use of 5w-40 engine oil and 12.5k or annual service stamps.
Rattly windows.
ECV Valve.
I to was under the impression that the engine is chain driven - but the seller informs me the timing belt was changed at 51k - Not sure what he is referring too?
I managed (though some of the sites you suggest)to ascertain that i should look for some of the following issues:
Steering rack - ideally this will have been replaced under warranty.
2nd gear 'crunching' when cold.
Use of 5w-40 engine oil and 12.5k or annual service stamps.
Rattly windows.
ECV Valve.
I to was under the impression that the engine is chain driven - but the seller informs me the timing belt was changed at 51k - Not sure what he is referring too?
Definitely a timing chain, so I'd be wary - he's either spouting crap because he wants to sound good or spouting crap because the service history's been 'embellished'.
Service interval on early cars is every 9k - it went to 12.5 either at the '04 facelift or the '06 change to the FN2.
Oil - yes, Mobil-1 (0w-xx) is a no-no apparently - nothing conclusive so this could just be anecdotal/coincidental, but suggestions too thin for the engine and caused bottom-end failures.
Service interval on early cars is every 9k - it went to 12.5 either at the '04 facelift or the '06 change to the FN2.
Oil - yes, Mobil-1 (0w-xx) is a no-no apparently - nothing conclusive so this could just be anecdotal/coincidental, but suggestions too thin for the engine and caused bottom-end failures.
Just with regards to oil, I bought my 55 plate CTR at the end of May. The oil was filled to the max, its used a bit, but its still sits between the min and max line. I was under the impression they used a lot of oil, but so far, I've not had to top mine up. A friend who has worked at a Honda main dealer for near 15 years said to wait until its almost at the min and fill it right up.
Anyway, I was just wondering, how often do you guys top up your oil?
Anyway, I was just wondering, how often do you guys top up your oil?
havoc said:
Definitely a timing chain, so I'd be wary - he's either spouting crap because he wants to sound good or spouting crap because the service history's been 'embellished'.
Service interval on early cars is every 9k - it went to 12.5 either at the '04 facelift or the '06 change to the FN2.
Oil - yes, Mobil-1 (0w-xx) is a no-no apparently - nothing conclusive so this could just be anecdotal/coincidental, but suggestions too thin for the engine and caused bottom-end failures.
I might be wrong, but I thought mine was every 12k (it was an early '02 model) and the facelift moved to 12.5k.Service interval on early cars is every 9k - it went to 12.5 either at the '04 facelift or the '06 change to the FN2.
Oil - yes, Mobil-1 (0w-xx) is a no-no apparently - nothing conclusive so this could just be anecdotal/coincidental, but suggestions too thin for the engine and caused bottom-end failures.
On an old one, I'd be checking the steering, front anti-roll bars and bushes. Gear change on all gears should be tried at high revs, quite aggressively. Look at tyre wear (rear has reasonable camber, so inside tread is OK to wear more than the rest, but check legality).
richard300 said:
2nd gear 'crunching' when cold
Mine did that after about 5000 miles/6 months from new they put a new box in it and fooked it up left the mountings loose ! after repeated further problems with the mountings terrible free play/snatch on overrun.Got rid of it after 1 year,most disappointing car and service from Honda.
will never buy a Honda again.
Our's has 151 thousand miles under it's belt (chain). We are the second owners and have loved it for over 7 years now.
I change the oil every 8 thousand miles and it goes like stink and has allways put a smile on my face.
Just check the oil allway's , especially if you enjoy the vtec zone.
2002 model calipers have a tendency to seize or get a wee bit stiff , check the drop links aswell , these destroy themselves over time.
The steering rack issue should have been addressed by now , check the seats for wear around where the seatbelt rests over the side of the seat , also the bolster on the drivers side bobbles up (alcantara) but you can defluff it with a razor.
The heatshields will corrode , if they have , then just remove them. I did.
I change the oil every 8 thousand miles and it goes like stink and has allways put a smile on my face.
Just check the oil allway's , especially if you enjoy the vtec zone.
2002 model calipers have a tendency to seize or get a wee bit stiff , check the drop links aswell , these destroy themselves over time.
The steering rack issue should have been addressed by now , check the seats for wear around where the seatbelt rests over the side of the seat , also the bolster on the drivers side bobbles up (alcantara) but you can defluff it with a razor.
The heatshields will corrode , if they have , then just remove them. I did.
andyjo1982 said:
friend who has worked at a Honda main dealer for near 15 years said to wait until its almost at the min and fill it right up.
Absolutely don't do this, especially if you drive the car as intended. Keep the oil topped up to the upper dot at all times. There is exactly 1 litre between the dots. If you don't and go on a track day for example, the lack of baffling in the standard sump will cause stravation during hard cornering and your engine will go pop. Even with the oil on the top dot, I know of at least one person who has lost an engine due to running semi slick tyres on track
itsnotarace said:
andyjo1982 said:
friend who has worked at a Honda main dealer for near 15 years said to wait until its almost at the min and fill it right up.
Absolutely don't do this, especially if you drive the car as intended. Keep the oil topped up to the upper dot at all times. There is exactly 1 litre between the dots. If you don't and go on a track day for example, the lack of baffling in the standard sump will cause stravation during hard cornering and your engine will go pop. Even with the oil on the top dot, I know of at least one person who has lost an engine due to running semi slick tyres on track
itsnotarace said:
If you don't and go on a track day for example, the lack of baffling in the standard sump will cause stravation during hard cornering and your engine will go pop. Even with the oil on the top dot, I know of at least one person who has lost an engine due to running semi slick tyres on track
To be fair to Honda, if you're going to be doing serious track work, then perhaps fit a Mugen Oil Sump or likewise. Miss my EP3, though fortunately I had an example with no faults. The 2nd gear was sticky in very cold weather but fine otherwise. Seems to be a characteristic of Honda boxes, but the creamy rifle-bolt gearchange (better than any other brand I have driven, especially Audi) more than makes up for it.
Expect the K20 to use a little oil, it is normal although some use none, others are a little greedy.
Syncro issues and clunky steering racks/top-mounts are not unusual, don't be shy when test driving.
Honda supply these cars with Bridgestone RE040 boots - great in the dry but Bradd Pitt in the wet.
Milano Red will fade to Milano Pink - beware!!!
Milano Red, Nighthawk Black and Satin Silver are the 3 original colours, Cosmic Grey was added with the 04 facelift.
Servicing is 12.5k/annual with the valve clearances done at 75k.The K20 engine is 100% chain driven and anyone suggesting a belt change has been done should be laughed at and walked away from.
Cracking cars when on song, a well looked after Civic Type R will serve you well. Lift off oversteer is in the locker if you want it.
Syncro issues and clunky steering racks/top-mounts are not unusual, don't be shy when test driving.
Honda supply these cars with Bridgestone RE040 boots - great in the dry but Bradd Pitt in the wet.
Milano Red will fade to Milano Pink - beware!!!
Milano Red, Nighthawk Black and Satin Silver are the 3 original colours, Cosmic Grey was added with the 04 facelift.
Servicing is 12.5k/annual with the valve clearances done at 75k.The K20 engine is 100% chain driven and anyone suggesting a belt change has been done should be laughed at and walked away from.
Cracking cars when on song, a well looked after Civic Type R will serve you well. Lift off oversteer is in the locker if you want it.
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