MPG on 51' Accord
Discussion
i recently picked up a 51' plate Accord 1.8 Vtec Sport as a replacement to my dying 1.8 Ford Focus Diesel as i just wasn't doing the milage to justify a diesel.
Now im really rather impressed with this thing, its a totally different character to my old steed and really has re-ignited my enthusiasm when it comes to driving
my only concern is the milage im getting from a full tank, im struggling to reach 300 miles from a full £70 top up, now at first i thought maybe it was me enjoying the car and having a little heavier right foot then usual, but this time i've topped it up again and im getting roughly the same milage, as it stands tonight i have about 4 notches left on the fuel guage and i've only done 220 odd miles
Does this sound about right, as im a little out of touch when it comes to petrols after owning a diesel for the last 4 years
Now im really rather impressed with this thing, its a totally different character to my old steed and really has re-ignited my enthusiasm when it comes to driving
my only concern is the milage im getting from a full tank, im struggling to reach 300 miles from a full £70 top up, now at first i thought maybe it was me enjoying the car and having a little heavier right foot then usual, but this time i've topped it up again and im getting roughly the same milage, as it stands tonight i have about 4 notches left on the fuel guage and i've only done 220 odd miles
Does this sound about right, as im a little out of touch when it comes to petrols after owning a diesel for the last 4 years
Official figures.Mechanic friend of mine says the 2.0 litres btw are known to guzzle-dunno about 1.8
Roughly you are getting @26.5 mpg- if it is a city -than is very good .If it is city/mway then close to 32 should be aim
Fuel consumption (urban) 24.4 mpg
Fuel consumption (extra urban) 41.5 mpg
Fuel consumption (combined) 32.8 mpg
Roughly you are getting @26.5 mpg- if it is a city -than is very good .If it is city/mway then close to 32 should be aim
Fuel consumption (urban) 24.4 mpg
Fuel consumption (extra urban) 41.5 mpg
Fuel consumption (combined) 32.8 mpg
khevolution said:
i have about 4 notches left on the fuel guage
I love your scientifc approach to measuring fuel consumption!From £70 for 300 miles and assuming you didn't run it until empty, sounds like you;re getting about 30MPG - which is not bad for an oldish car, around town and possibly with you not driving for best economy.
Accords generally have never been very good on fuel - even the diesels are quite random.
fair enough i just thought i would put it out there as i was quite regularly getting 500 miles on about £60 of fuel, now i do know that it was a diesel and diesels do get better economy, but the drop in MPG was more than i expected, guess i should've done more homework before buying it, it hasn't put me off, just slightly tainted my expectations
As for my "scientific measurement" all i can say is it was late and i couldn't think of a better way to describe it. lol
As for my "scientific measurement" all i can say is it was late and i couldn't think of a better way to describe it. lol
I ran a 2002 2.0 VTEC SE Accord for 35K miles in 2½ years and it averaged 33mpg over that time. Lots of short (under 10 miles) journeys but also at least one 200 round trip each month and 3 or 4 trips of 500 miles over 4 days or so each year. Also 3 trips to France in that time which totalled over 2500 miles.
If you want an accurate fuel consumption figure you need to go from full tank to full tank with at least 30-40 gallons of use in between and record the total mileage.
If you want an accurate fuel consumption figure you need to go from full tank to full tank with at least 30-40 gallons of use in between and record the total mileage.
No offence guys, but how are you calculating his MPG for him, when all he's provided is £xx to xx miles? Without knowing HOW much the fuel is costing, you're guessing? Was it unleaded, or super?
You need to work out the MPG properly, then explain the exact style of driving you're doing, then compare with real owners figures (a site like fuelly) rather than manufacturers figures, THEN if you see a problem, ask, and if it's out by something massive like 5-7 mpg, it will probably be an O2 sensor, OBD reader or fault code reader will tell you similar - but as advised above, give it a good service to make sure it's running properly first
You need to work out the MPG properly, then explain the exact style of driving you're doing, then compare with real owners figures (a site like fuelly) rather than manufacturers figures, THEN if you see a problem, ask, and if it's out by something massive like 5-7 mpg, it will probably be an O2 sensor, OBD reader or fault code reader will tell you similar - but as advised above, give it a good service to make sure it's running properly first
khevolution said:
You might regret saying that, I any tips you have would be great fully recieved
Not at all fella! I love these cars dearly, so am always happy to help. Be warned this is a long post, so grab a cuppa! There is also a link to my readers car thread incase you find anything useful there. NateWM said:
My father owned my SE Sport for ten years and I've had it for 2 years now, so I will try and give as much info as I can.
Door seals, mainly the fronts - Lift them up and look for rust, specifically around the front edge near the mirror. Common issue.
Water leak into the boot - Will be worth getting the spare out and checking the wheel well for moisture. Can be anything from a light seal upto a panel seam seal failure. Worth checking.
Boot struts - These fail often on the hatchbacks. Honda have since upgraded them but they are expensive from a dealer. Struts from a Mk3 Mondeo fit straight in, and are a much better alternative.
Rear brake pipes - Most will start to corrode by now, mine included. Will be worth covering these with something when/if you replace them.
02 sensor - Not uncommon. Usually the downpipe one which fails. Easy to change, but will give your wallet a raping.
Sticky rear caliper - Mine was also guilty of this. They are self adjusting calipers that use a spindle setup which pushes the inner pads on to engage the brake. This spindle can seize up. Sometimes you can get lucky and rectify it by freeing up the spindle, but most the time it requires a new caliper.
Windscreen seal -I've had about 10 people come to me in the last month asking me about this, so it seems to be becoming an issue as the car gets older. The windscreen seal fails and lets water get in through the top. Can be solved by either removing and re-sealing the screen, or pulling back the headliner slightly and sealing from the inside.
Knocking from the rear - I thought this was something like drop links or arb bushes. Turns out that on mine (and most others) it was the strut top bushes. Despite having a complex suspension setup, Accords are quite easy on bushes and droplinks.
Slight jumpiness/hesistation - Sometimes you may feel a slight hesistation at around 2000rpm. This is normal, due to them running very lean at low revs. More noticeable on the 148bhp and 171bhp 2.0 models.
A/C pump failure - Again, I've had a lot of people come to me with this issue lately, probably due to the car getting older. I've not been able to investigate this fully as I dont dabble with AC systems, but apparently its just a bearing failure.
Engines and gearboxes on these are pretty bullet proof and don't give much hassle. My Accord is a slightly different variant of yours, but alas it has done 165k miles now and hasn't given any major issues. However, there is one more common problem I want to show you which affects all models (CH, CG, CL etc.) and can cause issues, so please read carefully and if need be, check yours.
Water entering cabin - This problem is becoming more and more common. I have pre-checked over 30 Accords that have came to me, and all of them had this issue in varying states of decay, mine included! You will hear lots of people on THAOC or TypeAccord saying there car struggles to start after rain, or that it may start but will cough and splutter until warmed up. Unfortunately, THAOC/TypeAccord is full of nothing but wannabe mechanics, and they will suggest everything from spark plugs to bloody air filters.
Unfortunately 9 times out of 10 the problem is more serious. Honda in there infinite wisdom, decided that when water runs behind the strut tops in the engine bay, it will have nowhere to drain (thus pooling up) and eat through the firewall, getting into the cabin. Water would then saturate the soundproofing, cause condensation to get onto the ECU's. The condensation causes the ECU's to act up (which cause the rough running/non starting) and they will continue to do this until they dry out. If you want to check yours, you will have to remove part of the front arch liner it's quite simple.
You will need a standard phillips screwdriver and a small flathead.
1. Remove the 3 screws that go into the sideskirt, and the rear half of the clips from the liner.
2. Peel back the liner and look for any rust where the inner arch panel joins the firewall. Give it a good poke if need be.....Giggedy.
Have a look at the build thread of my own Accord. You will see me mention the rust issue as I had to get it sorted. The pictures should give you an idea where the rust could be.
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47...
I hope that helps. If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail me!
Door seals, mainly the fronts - Lift them up and look for rust, specifically around the front edge near the mirror. Common issue.
Water leak into the boot - Will be worth getting the spare out and checking the wheel well for moisture. Can be anything from a light seal upto a panel seam seal failure. Worth checking.
Boot struts - These fail often on the hatchbacks. Honda have since upgraded them but they are expensive from a dealer. Struts from a Mk3 Mondeo fit straight in, and are a much better alternative.
Rear brake pipes - Most will start to corrode by now, mine included. Will be worth covering these with something when/if you replace them.
02 sensor - Not uncommon. Usually the downpipe one which fails. Easy to change, but will give your wallet a raping.
Sticky rear caliper - Mine was also guilty of this. They are self adjusting calipers that use a spindle setup which pushes the inner pads on to engage the brake. This spindle can seize up. Sometimes you can get lucky and rectify it by freeing up the spindle, but most the time it requires a new caliper.
Windscreen seal -I've had about 10 people come to me in the last month asking me about this, so it seems to be becoming an issue as the car gets older. The windscreen seal fails and lets water get in through the top. Can be solved by either removing and re-sealing the screen, or pulling back the headliner slightly and sealing from the inside.
Knocking from the rear - I thought this was something like drop links or arb bushes. Turns out that on mine (and most others) it was the strut top bushes. Despite having a complex suspension setup, Accords are quite easy on bushes and droplinks.
Slight jumpiness/hesistation - Sometimes you may feel a slight hesistation at around 2000rpm. This is normal, due to them running very lean at low revs. More noticeable on the 148bhp and 171bhp 2.0 models.
A/C pump failure - Again, I've had a lot of people come to me with this issue lately, probably due to the car getting older. I've not been able to investigate this fully as I dont dabble with AC systems, but apparently its just a bearing failure.
Engines and gearboxes on these are pretty bullet proof and don't give much hassle. My Accord is a slightly different variant of yours, but alas it has done 165k miles now and hasn't given any major issues. However, there is one more common problem I want to show you which affects all models (CH, CG, CL etc.) and can cause issues, so please read carefully and if need be, check yours.
Water entering cabin - This problem is becoming more and more common. I have pre-checked over 30 Accords that have came to me, and all of them had this issue in varying states of decay, mine included! You will hear lots of people on THAOC or TypeAccord saying there car struggles to start after rain, or that it may start but will cough and splutter until warmed up. Unfortunately, THAOC/TypeAccord is full of nothing but wannabe mechanics, and they will suggest everything from spark plugs to bloody air filters.
Unfortunately 9 times out of 10 the problem is more serious. Honda in there infinite wisdom, decided that when water runs behind the strut tops in the engine bay, it will have nowhere to drain (thus pooling up) and eat through the firewall, getting into the cabin. Water would then saturate the soundproofing, cause condensation to get onto the ECU's. The condensation causes the ECU's to act up (which cause the rough running/non starting) and they will continue to do this until they dry out. If you want to check yours, you will have to remove part of the front arch liner it's quite simple.
You will need a standard phillips screwdriver and a small flathead.
1. Remove the 3 screws that go into the sideskirt, and the rear half of the clips from the liner.
2. Peel back the liner and look for any rust where the inner arch panel joins the firewall. Give it a good poke if need be.....Giggedy.
Have a look at the build thread of my own Accord. You will see me mention the rust issue as I had to get it sorted. The pictures should give you an idea where the rust could be.
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47...
I hope that helps. If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail me!
Riknos said:
No offence guys, but how are you calculating his MPG for him, when all he's provided is £xx to xx miles? Without knowing HOW much the fuel is costing, you're guessing? Was it unleaded, or super?
You need to work out the MPG properly, then explain the exact style of driving you're doing, then compare with real owners figures (a site like fuelly) rather than manufacturers figures, THEN if you see a problem, ask, and if it's out by something massive like 5-7 mpg, it will probably be an O2 sensor, OBD reader or fault code reader will tell you similar - but as advised above, give it a good service to make sure it's running properly first
working back from a 50L/11 gallon tank.....You need to work out the MPG properly, then explain the exact style of driving you're doing, then compare with real owners figures (a site like fuelly) rather than manufacturers figures, THEN if you see a problem, ask, and if it's out by something massive like 5-7 mpg, it will probably be an O2 sensor, OBD reader or fault code reader will tell you similar - but as advised above, give it a good service to make sure it's running properly first
khevolution said:
thought i would continue here instead of a new thread, but does anybody know if a haynes manual exists for my car i've looked online but can online find one for a US car.
I bought the Honda Electronic Service Manual (ESM) off of eBay for 99p.Might find one on there too?
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