circa 70k miles EP3
Discussion
looking to change car next month and an EP3 type R is on the short list. 4k ish budget seems to show results of pre face lift models around the 70k miles mark, given the hot hatch nature of the car I know they will have been driven hard so what are the common things to look out for and what are popular/effective mods to keep an eye out for?
http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php...
Everything you need to know here in the buyer's guide. I'd look for the lowest mileage you can find really as there are plenty of cars to choose from, also register onto the Type R owners site as people sell their cars on there too, and you may well find a better car for less.
Had mine 4 months and still love it. Paid £5000 for a face-lift 2005 with 47k miles and full history.
Everything you need to know here in the buyer's guide. I'd look for the lowest mileage you can find really as there are plenty of cars to choose from, also register onto the Type R owners site as people sell their cars on there too, and you may well find a better car for less.
Had mine 4 months and still love it. Paid £5000 for a face-lift 2005 with 47k miles and full history.
Yeah tro is great.
I bought one of these at the same mileage - facelift though. From my experience & research when I was looking id mainly look onto:
Vtec - should kick in around 5800-6000rpm. & make sure oil is topped up.
Clutch - these tend to go anywhere between 65k & as high as 90k. Is it heavy? Is the biting point high or low (mine went a lot higher after changing, was almost at the floor before),
Can you change freely in vtec?
Timing chain - Has it been checked or even better changed at 65k
2nd gear - common thing, can feel a bit "notchy". Especially when cold. Nothing to worry about if it does have this. 90% do & its ok. But id be patient & try & find one either with a smooth change or a
new 1-2 synchro.
Also be aware the big 75k service is coming up. These can easily cost over £500 at a dealer. If you can get to a specialist though like Grinspeed youll be able to get it done cheaper & to a higher standard. Gives discounts to TRO members too.
Hope that helps.
I bought one of these at the same mileage - facelift though. From my experience & research when I was looking id mainly look onto:
Vtec - should kick in around 5800-6000rpm. & make sure oil is topped up.
Clutch - these tend to go anywhere between 65k & as high as 90k. Is it heavy? Is the biting point high or low (mine went a lot higher after changing, was almost at the floor before),
Can you change freely in vtec?
Timing chain - Has it been checked or even better changed at 65k
2nd gear - common thing, can feel a bit "notchy". Especially when cold. Nothing to worry about if it does have this. 90% do & its ok. But id be patient & try & find one either with a smooth change or a
new 1-2 synchro.
Also be aware the big 75k service is coming up. These can easily cost over £500 at a dealer. If you can get to a specialist though like Grinspeed youll be able to get it done cheaper & to a higher standard. Gives discounts to TRO members too.
Hope that helps.
Edited by mfnick on Thursday 12th July 09:44
Not actually heard of any that have snapped but I know it normally gets checked around then in services. I bought mine at 69k & the guy who I bought it off had it changed at 67k - with receipts to prove.
From what he told me the engine management light just came on & killed all power to the car. & it was the chain. It hadnt snapped, but obviously it wasnt working as it should.
I actually thought that was normal around that mileage TBH too. My old Hyundai Coupé needed a new timing chain at 70k. That hadnt snapped either but it was at the end of its life & was making it sound like a Diesel lol
From what he told me the engine management light just came on & killed all power to the car. & it was the chain. It hadnt snapped, but obviously it wasnt working as it should.
I actually thought that was normal around that mileage TBH too. My old Hyundai Coupé needed a new timing chain at 70k. That hadnt snapped either but it was at the end of its life & was making it sound like a Diesel lol
The timing chain should last the life of the vehicle, that's why they're used, although some cars do seem to suffer from timing chain stretch, VAG VR6 engines being one.
The S2000 has a fairly common issue in that the timing chain tensioner begins to rattle and needs replacing, I'm not right up on the K20 used in the civic but it probably has the same tensioner.
The H22A7 in my Accord Type R has a belt with 72k or 7yr intervals, so I'd want a chain to be lasting longer than 65k!
The S2000 has a fairly common issue in that the timing chain tensioner begins to rattle and needs replacing, I'm not right up on the K20 used in the civic but it probably has the same tensioner.
The H22A7 in my Accord Type R has a belt with 72k or 7yr intervals, so I'd want a chain to be lasting longer than 65k!
Matt_N said:
The timing chain should last the life of the vehicle, that's why they're used, although some cars do seem to suffer from timing chain stretch, VAG VR6 engines being one.
The S2000 has a fairly common issue in that the timing chain tensioner begins to rattle and needs replacing, I'm not right up on the K20 used in the civic but it probably has the same tensioner.
The H22A7 in my Accord Type R has a belt with 72k or 7yr intervals, so I'd want a chain to be lasting longer than 65k!
Timing chains and chain tensioners on civic typr r are known to strech and the teeth wear on the tensioners needing them to be replaced have had them go on early as 55k. Civic tensioner is compleatly different to s2000 tensioner. the chains and tensioners go usually down to low oil levelThe S2000 has a fairly common issue in that the timing chain tensioner begins to rattle and needs replacing, I'm not right up on the K20 used in the civic but it probably has the same tensioner.
The H22A7 in my Accord Type R has a belt with 72k or 7yr intervals, so I'd want a chain to be lasting longer than 65k!
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