Discussion
Hello all,
My frist post on here on PH!
Now, im looking at getting an S2k in the not too distant future. Will be an early 2000 car prob up to 2004.
Im after what ever info you can give me. things i NEED to check when buying, common issues. or even fancy little tricks to make the cars better!
Many thanks
My frist post on here on PH!
Now, im looking at getting an S2k in the not too distant future. Will be an early 2000 car prob up to 2004.
Im after what ever info you can give me. things i NEED to check when buying, common issues. or even fancy little tricks to make the cars better!
Many thanks
There are masses of buying guides, but for a quick run down and a link to Sk2i -
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=28&...
Main things with regards to year of manufacture -
2002 - Glass Rear Screen
2004 - Revised bumpers, lights, wheels, suspension, interior etc.
Check the roof, clutch and gearbox - shifts should be crisp and short throw, although it appears some do have a slight 'notchy' feel, this may be the top mounted gear linkage which should be lubricated at service, but is often not.
Some drink their oil so as long as it is below recommended then that's ok.
Suspension changes have been made throughout the product cycle, the early ones being a little more raw - none will chew you up and spit you into a hedge as long as you drive to conditions blah blah...
Servicing regular is important.
Geometry can wander which can make a big difference to the handling, as can tyres.
Whilst they were expensive new, the actual running of S2000s is relatively cheap, just go over it like any other car and you should be fine.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=28&...
Main things with regards to year of manufacture -
2002 - Glass Rear Screen
2004 - Revised bumpers, lights, wheels, suspension, interior etc.
Check the roof, clutch and gearbox - shifts should be crisp and short throw, although it appears some do have a slight 'notchy' feel, this may be the top mounted gear linkage which should be lubricated at service, but is often not.
Some drink their oil so as long as it is below recommended then that's ok.
Suspension changes have been made throughout the product cycle, the early ones being a little more raw - none will chew you up and spit you into a hedge as long as you drive to conditions blah blah...
Servicing regular is important.
Geometry can wander which can make a big difference to the handling, as can tyres.
Whilst they were expensive new, the actual running of S2000s is relatively cheap, just go over it like any other car and you should be fine.
The running costs for mine in the time that I've owned it are in my profile. Might give you some information on likely running costs...
I'd go for a post-2002 car to get the glass rear screen if you can. 2004 cars had a slightly nicer interior and a revision to a few bits and bobs, but I prefer the clear indicators of the 2000-2003 car. Glass rear screen cars, as already mentioned, had revised suspension settings to try and address original complaints in reviews that they could be a bit lively in the wet. Mine's been fine, but if the tread on the rear tyres gets low you'll know about it!
I'd go for a post-2002 car to get the glass rear screen if you can. 2004 cars had a slightly nicer interior and a revision to a few bits and bobs, but I prefer the clear indicators of the 2000-2003 car. Glass rear screen cars, as already mentioned, had revised suspension settings to try and address original complaints in reviews that they could be a bit lively in the wet. Mine's been fine, but if the tread on the rear tyres gets low you'll know about it!
Blackwolf said:
Im doing that aswell!
But if everyone searched there would be no forum
Cheers for the S2Ki link!
And to be fair, the PH search facility is rubbish.But if everyone searched there would be no forum
Cheers for the S2Ki link!
Have a good listen to the engine when hot or cold - be wary of any ticking / clonking / card touching moving bicycle spokes noises. At best it could be timing chain tensioner, but other noises such as worn chain is quite expensive.
Ask the owner about oil - they should say something along the lines of "Yes, I check it once a week, and top it up with fully synthetic....". These cars can use oil (entirely normal) and the owner should be fastidious checking.
JFReturns said:
Ask the owner about oil - they should say something along the lines of "Yes, I check it once a week, and top it up with fully synthetic....". These cars can use oil (entirely normal) and the owner should be fastidious checking.
This too - as the owner how often they top it up (or at least check to see if it needs doing).You'll know instantly if it's an enthusiast owner that's had it (and it needs to be). When I was flogging mine I had every receipt from over the years for everything done from wiper blades to tyres.
Servicing is about £100 a year and between £300-400 for the major ones.
Mine didn't go through oil but I still checked it. Go for 04 if you can, glass screen, nicer lights/bumpers/wheels etc those old 5 spokes look dated now.
In the boot there is a polystyrene tool kit, check UNDER that for damp/water as if that's not sealed properly in could lead to nasty rust.
Check for tears in roof etc and that it folds down properly.
Discs and pads can be expensive, but what folk do (including me) is buy your discs from brakes international and get Honda to fit them at the service. They did this for me and admitted the discs were just as good. Cost me £150 instead of £450. The Honda OEM pads are cheap enough and decent so by all means get those from Honda.
All else is common sense and you'll know instantly if it's a good one or not.
Servicing is about £100 a year and between £300-400 for the major ones.
Mine didn't go through oil but I still checked it. Go for 04 if you can, glass screen, nicer lights/bumpers/wheels etc those old 5 spokes look dated now.
In the boot there is a polystyrene tool kit, check UNDER that for damp/water as if that's not sealed properly in could lead to nasty rust.
Check for tears in roof etc and that it folds down properly.
Discs and pads can be expensive, but what folk do (including me) is buy your discs from brakes international and get Honda to fit them at the service. They did this for me and admitted the discs were just as good. Cost me £150 instead of £450. The Honda OEM pads are cheap enough and decent so by all means get those from Honda.
All else is common sense and you'll know instantly if it's a good one or not.
elementad said:
You'll know instantly if it's an enthusiast owner that's had it (and it needs to be). When I was flogging mine I had every receipt from over the years for everything done from wiper blades to tyres.
All else is common sense and you'll know instantly if it's a good one or not.
So true. I bought mine (an early 00) from an enthusiast (engineer). It hasn't used a drop of oil in over 1,000 miles usage! (with plenty of spirited driving I may add) By comparison two friends with '02 plates use over a litre every thousand miles.All else is common sense and you'll know instantly if it's a good one or not.
Regarding the revisions I deliberately went for the early pre suspension revision as I wanted the purest drive. No chasis revisions, VSA or 17 inch alloys to make it idiot proof for me thanks. The perspex screen and hood are in good shape and the car even came with a hard top!
Re the VSA I would avoid as some of the later cars with it on are starting to go wrong and its a small fortune to rectify (replacement module). Likewise a lot of the late 09 cars are literally blowing up! (most fixed under dealer warranty though).
Golden rule is get one that has been to Centre of Gravity or proper Geo specialist as these drive like a dream. The suspension geo adjusters have 99 times out of 100 seized and the guy who I'd bought mine from had forked out north of £1300 getting this work done. S2000s are twitchy but I swear mine is so compliant/balanced in the wet or dry.
Big thing that can be a pain to sort is the dreaded TCT (or timing chain tensioner) rattle. Make sure you start the car from cold and if you hear the rattle or ticking noise on idle from cold factor this job in. (it will rattle when hot too). Any dedicated owner will be well aware whether it has it or not. Also another expensive job is the clutch. If the car crunches when changing gear (even when fully warmed) you will need to change the clutch and its a £600+ job from a specialist.
Amazing car though
Edited by fuchsiasteve on Saturday 31st December 20:59
Some very useful infomation. Thanks guys!
Now im fairly compitent with a spanner, so brakes/discs/servicing ect I can do (plan on uprateing them eatherway..) I could proberly do the clutch as well, but does anyone know if speicalist tools are needed for anything?
As for the sezing bushes im assuming you can buy polybushes or Mugen ones?
Im assuming the TCT is an automatiic one? (taking my knowlage from motorbikes here) Can you get manual ones if the one thats on it is gone? or even why is it such a PITA to replace the duff one with a new one?
Now im fairly compitent with a spanner, so brakes/discs/servicing ect I can do (plan on uprateing them eatherway..) I could proberly do the clutch as well, but does anyone know if speicalist tools are needed for anything?
As for the sezing bushes im assuming you can buy polybushes or Mugen ones?
Im assuming the TCT is an automatiic one? (taking my knowlage from motorbikes here) Can you get manual ones if the one thats on it is gone? or even why is it such a PITA to replace the duff one with a new one?
Blackwolf said:
Im doing that aswell!
But if everyone searched there would be no forum
To be fair, I sometimes think PH'ers ARE that infinite number of monkeys, judging by how much info there is on PH...But if everyone searched there would be no forum
...now if only the Search engine was reliable...
Bushes - yes, there are poly replacements, albeit Honda use differential rubber hardness across different bushes to 'tune' the handling of their performance cars, so fitting poly bushes will affect the handling slightly. Mugen are better, as they're closer to the OE spec but harder, so the car will be a little stiffer but more 'faithful' to the original spec.
Geo - to be fair, except for the exceptional service re: suspension adj. bolts (stripping and cleaning/greasing) that the likes of CentreGravity do, any GOOD alignment place is worth talking to - you'll probably find after a few months that you want to tweak it to your own settings anyway - everyone has different ideas on castor and camber (I preferred to reduce both).
What year? 02+ had glass rear screen, 04+ had 17"s and a slightly nicer interior, 06+ had optional VSA and a DBW throttle, each year had it's own suspension settings, gradually getting 'softer' until the 08+ run-outs where they found their mojo again. 04+ typically considered the best compromise, but a VGC 02+ is well worth looking at...
Edited by havoc on Monday 2nd January 10:35
if you are getting an early model (pre 2002) watch out for clutch buzz on deceleration. Although there is nothing mechanically wrong with it it is bloody annoying.
Only other thing i would add is that the early cars (again pre 2002 i think) are slightly sharper and have a lower vtec point. In terms of performance it's negligible but does give a rawer feel to the car.
Watch out for rust on the rear arches....remove the plastic/rubber covers around the wheel arch and check for it, once they go you will never sort it. If it hasn't started then get some rust preventer on it.
Don't bother with wheels more than 17 inches.
Don't take the air box lid off, if you want more induction noise then shell out for an aftermarket one. It won't change the performance though.
Only other thing i would add is that the early cars (again pre 2002 i think) are slightly sharper and have a lower vtec point. In terms of performance it's negligible but does give a rawer feel to the car.
Watch out for rust on the rear arches....remove the plastic/rubber covers around the wheel arch and check for it, once they go you will never sort it. If it hasn't started then get some rust preventer on it.
Don't bother with wheels more than 17 inches.
Don't take the air box lid off, if you want more induction noise then shell out for an aftermarket one. It won't change the performance though.
JFReturns said:
Blackwolf said:
Im doing that aswell!
But if everyone searched there would be no forum
Cheers for the S2Ki link!
And to be fair, the PH search facility is rubbish.But if everyone searched there would be no forum
Cheers for the S2Ki link!
Have a good listen to the engine when hot or cold - be wary of any ticking / clonking / card touching moving bicycle spokes noises. At best it could be timing chain tensioner, but other noises such as worn chain is quite expensive.
Ask the owner about oil - they should say something along the lines of "Yes, I check it once a week, and top it up with fully synthetic....". These cars can use oil (entirely normal) and the owner should be fastidious checking.
I for one is glad this is too the top!
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