Swapping Clio 182 for Integra?
Discussion
Hi all,
I'm currently in discussion with someone about swapping my Clio 182 for this.
Can anyone tell me anything about this car? I don't know much about them so what are the common faults and problems?
Does this look like a well looked after model?
What should I ask about the car?
Thanks,
Hixxey
I'm currently in discussion with someone about swapping my Clio 182 for this.
Can anyone tell me anything about this car? I don't know much about them so what are the common faults and problems?
Does this look like a well looked after model?
What should I ask about the car?
Thanks,
Hixxey
As mentioned, the JDM cars tend to have less rust...but they do need to be properly undersealed.
JDM '96 cars also have a couple of differences to UK models
- different exhaust manifold, giving a few extra ponies. (This MAY be on 98+ cars only, check on itr-dc2.com)
- smaller diameter front discs - 262mm vs 282mm (98+ rectify this and wear 16"s). This is because the alloys are a more restrictive design. 4-stud hubs too on the 96, not 5-stud (UKDM and 98+). Anyone tracking the car upgrades the hubs to 5-stud or fits after-market alloys straight away.
- cosmetically, it's got a nicer steering wheel and different headlights (pretty obviously)
Re: the mods
- Check what the exhaust sounds like at an M-way cruise - some are quite boomy and might make it a pain to live with. Check how loud in VTEC too, esp. if you plan to do trackdays.
- See how the car rides on the new springs. A stock car rides comparably well to a MkV GTi on 17"s, or a stock 182 (i.e. better than a Cup), but also has a real tail-led stance under cornering - it feels like it's about to oversteer and is just stopping itself.
- Both will make a difference to insurance too, as will it being a JDM.
Stuff to look out for (in order of importance):-
- Check for accident damage. The chassis is the star of this car (even more so than powertrain), so make sure it's straight and all the suspension is too.
- Has the engine been looked after - they can drink oil and shouldn't be ragged from cold. Check for smoke on start-up, check what colour the oil is, check for mayo on the dipstick etc. etc. Check service history - this can be an issue on JDM cars as books are often in Kanji and may be missing.
- Check for oil leaks. There shouldn't be any. Mine had a slight weep at purchase from the rocker cover gasket...quickly traced to a threaded rocker-cover bolt, easy fix. Any other locations and start asking questions.
- How does the gearbox feel? The change SHOULDN'T be notchy/obstructive/resistant - it's the slickest change around and should feel effortless. 2nd-to-3rd synchro is usually the first to go, a quick (but not rough!) change-up whilst in VTEC should show any problems there.
- Also it should slot into place really nicely, albeit there's likely to be a couple of mm of 'waggle' in the stick when it's in gear - this is wear in the linkage/bushes, they all have it. Any more than a little wiggle though and you'll probably want to sort the linkage out, which is a tricky job in terms of access but parts aren't too pricey.
- Clutch should engage cleanly, but biting point is less of a worry. I got 40k out of the clutch on my first car due to lots of trackdays, current car is on first clutch at 73k because I've not tracked it and I've been more sympathetic (I've learned HnT since the first car).
- Electrics are pretty reliable overall, so there's little to worry about there. Interior is also pretty good, main issue being seat bolsters as mentioned in the ad.
- At that mileage the wheel bearings (esp. the rears) could be starting to grumble, so listen out there. Not that difficult to fit, as it's just a replacement hub...but parts aren't that cheap.
- Ditto rear trailing arm bushes. 60-80k is about their limit, sensibly. Again, replacement is a couple of hundred.
- It may be a JDM but it's a 15y.o. car. Check coolant hoses, brake hoses, etc...
JDM '96 cars also have a couple of differences to UK models
- different exhaust manifold, giving a few extra ponies. (This MAY be on 98+ cars only, check on itr-dc2.com)
- smaller diameter front discs - 262mm vs 282mm (98+ rectify this and wear 16"s). This is because the alloys are a more restrictive design. 4-stud hubs too on the 96, not 5-stud (UKDM and 98+). Anyone tracking the car upgrades the hubs to 5-stud or fits after-market alloys straight away.
- cosmetically, it's got a nicer steering wheel and different headlights (pretty obviously)
Re: the mods
- Check what the exhaust sounds like at an M-way cruise - some are quite boomy and might make it a pain to live with. Check how loud in VTEC too, esp. if you plan to do trackdays.
- See how the car rides on the new springs. A stock car rides comparably well to a MkV GTi on 17"s, or a stock 182 (i.e. better than a Cup), but also has a real tail-led stance under cornering - it feels like it's about to oversteer and is just stopping itself.
- Both will make a difference to insurance too, as will it being a JDM.
Stuff to look out for (in order of importance):-
- Check for accident damage. The chassis is the star of this car (even more so than powertrain), so make sure it's straight and all the suspension is too.
- Has the engine been looked after - they can drink oil and shouldn't be ragged from cold. Check for smoke on start-up, check what colour the oil is, check for mayo on the dipstick etc. etc. Check service history - this can be an issue on JDM cars as books are often in Kanji and may be missing.
- Check for oil leaks. There shouldn't be any. Mine had a slight weep at purchase from the rocker cover gasket...quickly traced to a threaded rocker-cover bolt, easy fix. Any other locations and start asking questions.
- How does the gearbox feel? The change SHOULDN'T be notchy/obstructive/resistant - it's the slickest change around and should feel effortless. 2nd-to-3rd synchro is usually the first to go, a quick (but not rough!) change-up whilst in VTEC should show any problems there.
- Also it should slot into place really nicely, albeit there's likely to be a couple of mm of 'waggle' in the stick when it's in gear - this is wear in the linkage/bushes, they all have it. Any more than a little wiggle though and you'll probably want to sort the linkage out, which is a tricky job in terms of access but parts aren't too pricey.
- Clutch should engage cleanly, but biting point is less of a worry. I got 40k out of the clutch on my first car due to lots of trackdays, current car is on first clutch at 73k because I've not tracked it and I've been more sympathetic (I've learned HnT since the first car).
- Electrics are pretty reliable overall, so there's little to worry about there. Interior is also pretty good, main issue being seat bolsters as mentioned in the ad.
- At that mileage the wheel bearings (esp. the rears) could be starting to grumble, so listen out there. Not that difficult to fit, as it's just a replacement hub...but parts aren't that cheap.
- Ditto rear trailing arm bushes. 60-80k is about their limit, sensibly. Again, replacement is a couple of hundred.
- It may be a JDM but it's a 15y.o. car. Check coolant hoses, brake hoses, etc...
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