ABS light on - how can i find the problem?

ABS light on - how can i find the problem?

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anonymous-user

Original Poster:

59 months

Friday 5th August 2011
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The ABS warning light on my 2002 Civic is staying on at cold start-up, but if you turn off and then start it again the light does the usual on-off check and then stays off.

I've removed all 4 wheels and visually checked everything, and it all seems fine, the cables are undamaged, the sensors themselves are undamaged, the plugs do not seem to be corroded, all brakes have good discs/pads/shoes. I cleaned the sensors' ends with WD40 / toothbrush just in case. Once back together I tested it and the ABS light behaved normally, but it seems to do that unless the car is stone cold, so i won't know for sure until tomorrow.

Next step would be to test each speed sensor or check for stored error codes - on my MX5 i can check codes with a piece of wire in the diagnostic connector - can I do that same on the Civic?

Is there any way I can check the sensors themselves with a multimeter? If so, what readings should I be looking for as normal?

Vehicle is a 1.4 petrol with drums at the rear.

thanks
James

Mr Sparkle

1,922 posts

175 months

Wednesday 10th August 2011
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Sorry I can't be of much help but have you checked that all the brake lights are working? On my old prelude a failed light would activate the (ALB) light.

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

59 months

Friday 12th August 2011
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Thanks, I'll check it but I'm pretty sure that's not it as it's had rear lights out before without the ABS light being on. In fact after a rear end shunt (and subsequent "repair" by a certain nationwide company) one entire rear light cluster stopped working for a bit.

On the way home tonight and the light was out, as I gently braked to turn into my road I felt the ABS kick in for a second (that weird slip-bite feeling) and the light came back on. Stupid car. Going to see if the garage over the road can get any fault codes out of it next.

Last weekend I tried checking one of the ABS sensors with my multimeter - with it set to 100k Ohms I could get the needle to pulse by rotating the wheel, which I assume is the resistence in the sensor changing, but I don't think my multimeter is good enough, or I had it on the wrong setting, as the needle change was only just barely visible.

Anyone know if there's a proper way to check the sensor with a multimeter?

Edited by anonymous-user on Friday 12th August 18:51

wild rover

447 posts

186 months

Tuesday 13th September 2011
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Checked for any play in the wheel bearings?