Advice needed from the experts, please.
Discussion
Hi guys and girls.
I thought it might be prudent to ask questions from those in the know before I hunt down anymore parts for my next car.
I've had a bike that does wheelies on the drag strip and now i want to step up to a car that does the same!
Seriously though, I'm building a car that will be used for cruising but will really be a street driven drag car for the one or two times a year I'll be able to make it to Shakey or York.
Basics would be good, I suppose........
The car is a 1968 Volvo 142 and the engine is a hybrid of 8 valve and 16 valve that has been regularly proven to produce 500hp+ with good dyno time and standard head and cams.
The rear axle is Ford Explorer 8.8"
The gearbox will be Cosworth T5 (when I can find one for sensible money)
The engine management is Megasquirt
Clutch will be a Tilton based triple plate unit (currently under development).
I'm going to rose joint the rear axle using a triangulated 4 link.
What do I need to look out for on this? Is there something that I may have missed?
would those who've been there, done that please offer snippets of advice to save me major failures that could be avoided?
this car will not be debuting this season, or next.
I've given myself a timesacle of 2 1/2 years purely due to monthly budget and the kids insisting on being fed every day.
Can anyone think of anything I've not considered?
I've already sorted a mechanical linelock.
One of my main concerns is this...... car will weigh about the same as standard- 2250lbs. Clutch will be capable of side step, full throttle launches.
Volvo turbo motors produce lots of torque.
I've seen several 140 series cars lift the front wheels during a run- is there any reason to worry about wheelie bars in a car of this power?
I appreciate that many experienced racers may now be laughing, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.........
I thought it might be prudent to ask questions from those in the know before I hunt down anymore parts for my next car.
I've had a bike that does wheelies on the drag strip and now i want to step up to a car that does the same!
Seriously though, I'm building a car that will be used for cruising but will really be a street driven drag car for the one or two times a year I'll be able to make it to Shakey or York.
Basics would be good, I suppose........
The car is a 1968 Volvo 142 and the engine is a hybrid of 8 valve and 16 valve that has been regularly proven to produce 500hp+ with good dyno time and standard head and cams.
The rear axle is Ford Explorer 8.8"
The gearbox will be Cosworth T5 (when I can find one for sensible money)
The engine management is Megasquirt
Clutch will be a Tilton based triple plate unit (currently under development).
I'm going to rose joint the rear axle using a triangulated 4 link.
What do I need to look out for on this? Is there something that I may have missed?
would those who've been there, done that please offer snippets of advice to save me major failures that could be avoided?
this car will not be debuting this season, or next.
I've given myself a timesacle of 2 1/2 years purely due to monthly budget and the kids insisting on being fed every day.

Can anyone think of anything I've not considered?
I've already sorted a mechanical linelock.
One of my main concerns is this...... car will weigh about the same as standard- 2250lbs. Clutch will be capable of side step, full throttle launches.
Volvo turbo motors produce lots of torque.
I've seen several 140 series cars lift the front wheels during a run- is there any reason to worry about wheelie bars in a car of this power?
I appreciate that many experienced racers may now be laughing, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.........
Hi 
Ummm depends on how far you want to wheelie...
If you want to do the whole track...have a chat with Ronnie Picardo
But basically its a weight thing.....you make the back end heavier than the front...
You will find its a little hard to see where you are going which is why Ronnies have a plastic panel in the floor
All the best Brett

Ummm depends on how far you want to wheelie...
If you want to do the whole track...have a chat with Ronnie Picardo

But basically its a weight thing.....you make the back end heavier than the front...
You will find its a little hard to see where you are going which is why Ronnies have a plastic panel in the floor

All the best Brett

I cant pretend to know a huge amount about the technical aspects. But it sounds like a good fun project. Go for it!
(Most everyone in the sport is very approachable. Join a club (SPRC or APIRA, but I would go for SPRC myself), get a rule book, and then speak to someone like Geoff Hauser, Chris Isaacs, Andy Robinson or Jon Webster)
(Most everyone in the sport is very approachable. Join a club (SPRC or APIRA, but I would go for SPRC myself), get a rule book, and then speak to someone like Geoff Hauser, Chris Isaacs, Andy Robinson or Jon Webster)
Hi 
I wouldnt worry about the box....if you want a full track wheelie..you wont be doing it fast
Its a skill you will have to learn...its not about power...think about steering for a second ......with only the rear wheels on the ground and you will see what I mean........
All the best Brett

I wouldnt worry about the box....if you want a full track wheelie..you wont be doing it fast

Its a skill you will have to learn...its not about power...think about steering for a second ......with only the rear wheels on the ground and you will see what I mean........
All the best Brett

I'm not indenting to build a wheelie car- they're entertaining, but ultimately useless.
I'm more concerned with whther I'll need wheelie bars on the car or not, as I'd rather weld the brackets on the axle initially than have to grind the paint off, weld them on and repaint- I hate doing a job twice.
With regards to the gearbox, I'm open to ideas, but the Cossie is the only one I can think off that has useable ratios and will take the power. I know some of the yank T5's have the same ratios, but importing one is expensive, so it makes the Cossie one look a bit more reasonable. The TVR box had it's internals upgraded before going in the car but they're rare and expensive too. I can't afford a T56 and I will not have an autotragic whilst my a*se still points south!
Suggestions?
I'm more concerned with whther I'll need wheelie bars on the car or not, as I'd rather weld the brackets on the axle initially than have to grind the paint off, weld them on and repaint- I hate doing a job twice.
With regards to the gearbox, I'm open to ideas, but the Cossie is the only one I can think off that has useable ratios and will take the power. I know some of the yank T5's have the same ratios, but importing one is expensive, so it makes the Cossie one look a bit more reasonable. The TVR box had it's internals upgraded before going in the car but they're rare and expensive too. I can't afford a T56 and I will not have an autotragic whilst my a*se still points south!
Suggestions?
BB-Q said:
With regards to the gearbox, I'm open to ideas, but the Cossie is the only one I can think off that has useable ratios and will take the power. I know some of the yank T5's have the same ratios, but importing one is expensive, so it makes the Cossie one look a bit more
Suggestions?
Heck, I had a load of decent mustang t5's to sell and I struggled to get £300 for each them. Just email a ford breakers in the US and see what they have. Suggestions?
Boosted.
Boosted LS1 said:
BB-Q said:
With regards to the gearbox, I'm open to ideas, but the Cossie is the only one I can think off that has useable ratios and will take the power. I know some of the yank T5's have the same ratios, but importing one is expensive, so it makes the Cossie one look a bit more
Suggestions?
Heck, I had a load of decent mustang t5's to sell and I struggled to get £300 for each them. Just email a ford breakers in the US and see what they have. Suggestions?
Boosted.
I can get a T5 with the same ratios as the Cossie brand new in the USA for around $1075 plus shipping, but I simply don't have that level of cash available for one component in the build.
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