Talk to me about inner tubes

[Moose.]

Recently I've been having quite a number of punctures and I'm starting to think it could be the new inner tubes (some Raleigh something or others from the LBS). A couple were pinch flats but the rest were just good old thorns.

The original, unbranded tubes, seemed to be much more puncture resistant, as I only had about 4 punctures in a year (riding on average 3 times a week). I changed them recently because 4 patches on a single tube seemed a good time to change.

So, anyone got any recommendations for some new rubber that's light but won't keep getting punctured?

[mk1fan]

Assuming your tyre pressures are correct you're not going to get puncture protection from 'thorns' from lightweight inner tubes.

You can get tubes with 'slime' in them that should self seal - much like a tubeless set up does - but these come with a weight penalty.

I tend to go through phases of picking up loads of punctures and then getting none. One of the downsides of mtb riding.

[WildCards]

Bear in mind that farmers have been out in force recently cutting hedges and maintaining field boundaries leading up to Spring/Summer, you'll always be more susceptible to punctures at this time of year, it's just one of those things. All i'm doing at the minute is making sure my tyres are around 40psi and that I actively watch where i'm riding.

[Big Ashy]

IMO, Specialised tubes are light enough and durable enough to withstand the usual MTB treatment, providing your running 35ish p.s.i. Doesn`t matter what your running, thorns will easily pierce and result in a puncture unless running tubeless with slime.

[dubbs]

I've just gone to tubeless to see if they're as good as everyone says. Thorns and that sort of puncture is fixed instantly, pressures are lower so more grip, no pinch flats.

Running Maxxis high roller on the rear and Maxxis minion on the front on Stans ZTR flows.

Only had one ride on them so far though so will have to watch this space :-)

[Tim.s]

Sounds like you have just been unlucky!

I only ever buy cheap and cheerful tubes nowadays, the flashy ones are a false economy, ive got a couple in my freeride bike at the moment which i got from Asda for a pound each

[snotrag]

Dubbs - I've just gone Stans aswell, ZTR arches with the rimstrip, and Maxxis Advantages.

Very impressed so far.

As for tubes, make sure there well talced in the tyre, helps stop snake bites.

Edited by snotrag on Tuesday 15th April 09:49

[pawsmcgraw]

I ve come to the verdict that the Geax gloop is better the the stans gloop, and its cheaper.Ive had a better seal rate, a more consistant run with it and it doesnt seem to go off like the stans stuff does.Also, the stans has amonia in it which makes maxis tyres blister on the outside in the form of a bubble.It takes about 3 months for this to happen.Maxis are now refusing to warranty tyres that have had stans sealer put in them......who can make a tyre last 3 months anyhow

Edited by pawsmcgraw on Tuesday 15th April 10:11

[snotrag]

I'm not using the Stans sealant, its some other stuff from justridingalong. Seems to work fine...

[Sway]

Slime tubes are horrible, gets everywhere and doesn't really protect against much.

Best bet is to get latex tubes, which are far more flexible, thus helping prevent punctures as they'll deform rather than burst if anything gets through the tyre.

They lose air more quickly though, so you'll have to be aware of this, or get the (more expensive) combined latex with thin coat of butyl to keep the air in. (Used to be sold under the brand 'Air-B')

Oh, and remember that the pressure of the tyre is important, so make sure they stay at the correct pressure (used to lose between 10-15psi a week out of my roadie tyres)

[Pesty]

What os the benefit of tubeless tyres? is it just rotational mass or are there other things

[pdV6]

Pesty said:

What os the benefit of tubeless tyres? is it just rotational mass or are there other things

Not necessarily much of a weight saving as the tyre needs to be a bit beefier to support the bike without the help of an inner tube. Plus some sealant is required.

The benefit is usually stated as being able to run lower tyre pressures without getting pinch flats but again, some people find that you can't lower the pressure that much and maintain a usable tyre.

Therefore the main benefit I can see is thorn protection due to the sealant.

<awaits incoming flame war from tubeless converts>

[mat205125]

mk1fan said:

I tend to go through phases of picking up loads of punctures and then getting none. One of the downsides of mtb riding.

I can go for months and not touch the tyres other than to adjust the pressures, then can get 3 or 4 punctures per ride.

How used are the trails you are riding? Are they pretty "green" from a quiet winter? All sorts of crap might be sat on them waiting to be cleared.

Make sure your tubes are fitted evenly around the tyre, and that your pressures are right for your weight and the conditions.

[-C-]

I wouldn't believe the whole "no pinch flats" thing running tubeless, my rear tyre is peppered with snakebite holes in the sidewalls, right up where the bead touches the rim. Trouble is, its so far up the sidewall that sealant can't get to it. Thats on a DH casing UST Maxxis tyre too.

I don't run silly low pressures either, normally around 30psi.

I'm toying with trying Michelin tyres now, just to stop it occuring. Every time I ride is starting to get a bit tedious...

[R4NDY]

I use these in 3 bikes, been using them for 10 months without a flat. I consider good value, only messy when you change a tyre as some slime comes out the valve.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...
Fit and forget for me.