Tubless road tyres for a MTB - do they exist??

[CAB]

As the title would suggest i am looking for some tubless road orientated tyres that would fit some std MTB wheels..

Does such a thing exist???

Thanks in adavance

CAB

[Chris71]

Very much so - they use a sealant and/or special tyres (and obviously rims without valve holes). Never used them personally, but plenty of the lycra-clad XC brigade do.

[mk1fan]

I would think a Schwalbe Marathon Plus (given it's construction) would run fine on a UST rim wih sealant. The higher pressures required for slicks is above that of the 'rim strip' (Stan's, DT etc..) tubeless systems I've looked at so you'd need a UST rim.

[CAB]

thanks guys

i might be wrong but i thought proper tubless tyres didnt need sealant - the tyres that have been suggested sound like they are designed for use with inner tubes .. or i have got this very wrong??

As a back up i have been looking at some Continental Ultra Gator Skin MTB Tyre | Tyres - MTB Road. although at 1.125 i wonder if they will fit the shimano xt wheels

Thanks CAB

[mk1fan]

The problem of running tubeless without sealant is that any 'thorn' prick in the tyre will result in a flat tyre. And the need for a tube to reinflate.

UST tyres do have a thicker carcus but this isn't puncture proof and is there more to support the tyre more.

Sealant can be used in non-ust tyres to help seal up the more porous tyre carcus (and you put more in to do this) and to seal up holes caused by thorns etc...

Any mtb tyre can be run tubeless you just need the right system for the job.

There are several different types of 'tubless' systems for road bikes.

Edited by mk1fan on Monday 4th February 13:54

[CAB]

so taking that approach what would i need to combine

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cyc...

these with

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cyc...

just lots of sealant??

[vrooom]

Why? as far i can see, there is no avantange of running tubeless

[CAB]

vrooom said:

Why? as far i can see, there is no avantange of running tubeless

assume the final combination is lighter??

[Alicat]

Well I am in the process of trying to sort this.

I have some 26 x 1.6 Kenda Kwest and want to run tubeless so have got a Stans No Tubes kit. However, I cant get the b****** to inflate.

Have put tubes in them for now but guess what? two trips and I have two punctures. I ran a UST system on my other bike all summer flats, lots of thorns.

Will try again when I get chance to try the No Tubes.

ALicat

[Alicat]

I assume you want to something like this here -http://gallery.mac.com/tonyleach#100038

Alicat

[-C-]

vrooom said:

Why? as far i can see, there is no avantange of running tubeless

On a like for like (or thereabouts) strength rim, it is generally slightly lighter to run tubeless.

Plus you won't puncture (unless you tear a hole in the sidewall, which you're screwed, tube or not).

[mk1fan]

vrooom said:

Why? as far i can see, there is no avantange of running tubeless

There are advantages and dis-advantages to both systems. I won't hijack the thread to list them. What I will say is , as with everthing, you'll no doubt have a preference. I've been running tubeless on my Stiffee for over a year now and only had one flat - when the tyre got sliced open. A tube wouldn't have survived in that case either. When I took the tyre off to repair it I saw numerous sealant repairs on the inside of the tyre.

Those XT wheels are very good - assuming you're running rim brakes - atom111 has been running the disc version on his XC HT and is very pleased with their performance. Their lighter than advertised too.

You'd only need a scoop of sealant for each of those tyres (each type has different volume in their 'scoop').

Personally, I'll be running tubes and 700 x 32 (or 28) Schwalbe Marathon Plus's on my new Inbred commuter. The tyres are bullet proof so don't puncture anyway and the additional weight of the tube will help keep the bike upright when it's loaded up for touring!

My Stiffee does run Stan's No Tubes and my S-Ws will run Stan's too once I get it's new wheels (and lost a stone!).

[Alicat]

Still can't the Stans to inflate, any ideas?

[CAB]

Alicat said:

I assume you want to something like this here -http://gallery.mac.com/tonyleach#100038

Alicat

yep - i am almost there...

running some nimbus tyres on the Xt rims at the mo - think there must be a slicker tubeless tyre out there somewhere...!!

[CAB]

mk1fan said:

Those XT wheels are very good - assuming you're running rim brakes - atom111 has been running the disc version on his XC HT and is very pleased with their performance. Their lighter than advertised too.

wheels are great marathons look fine but suspect they will have more rolling resistance than the nimbus tyres i currently have

cab

[CAB]

CAB said:

so taking that approach what would i need to combine

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cyc...

these with

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cyc...

just lots of sealant??

just read the small print the tyres for the XT wheels must be at least 1.5 so the ultra gators wont work!!

[mk1fan]

CAB said:

wheels are great marathons look fine but suspect they will have more rolling resistance than the nimbus tyres i currently have

cab

If low rolling resistance is your main criteria and therefore speed then you should run 700 sizd wheels. Would be a lot faster than the 26-inchers.

[CAB]

mk1fan said:

CAB said:

wheels are great marathons look fine but suspect they will have more rolling resistance than the nimbus tyres i currently have

cab

If low rolling resistance is your main criteria and therefore speed then you should run 700 sizd wheels. Would be a lot faster than the 26-inchers.

not willing to spend any more on wheels!! ;-) however have been looking at the XTR brake/gear shifters... quite tempted...

[pawsmcgraw]

Alicat said:

Still can't the Stans to inflate, any ideas?

get?

Having had issues since this came along i've now got a method that always works.Get a compressor with a tap, wait until fully charged,and remove valve(not the stem, just the valve).The tyre inflator i use is just a hollow metal tube like a blow gun.You need the air line short and wide for volume.
Lube rims up with soap, put wheel in bike so you dont have to hold it then use tap to release the huge volume of air at 100psi into the tyre.This just pops it onto the hooks, but you need to be careful as to not trap your fingers, plus the "race" ztr rims blow apart
When it seats or when you flinch at the pop, the air rushes out of the valve hole but the tyre stays seated.Now blow them up with a hand pump easily
Also, put the stans gloop in after they are seated, just poor it through the valve stem.Failure to do this can end up making you look like a female porn star at the end of a long drawn out movie!

Edited by pawsmcgraw on Wednesday 6th February 00:14

[CAB]

pawsmcgraw said:

Alicat said:

Still can't the Stans to inflate, any ideas?

get?

Having had issues since this came along i've now got a method that always works.Get a compressor with a tap, wait until fully charged,and remove valve(not the stem, just the valve).The tyre inflator i use is just a hollow metal tube like a blow gun.You need the air line short and wide for volume.
Lube rims up with soap, put wheel in bike so you dont have to hold it then use tap to release the huge volume of air at 100psi into the tyre.This just pops it onto the hooks, but you need to be careful as to not trap your fingers, plus the "race" ztr rims blow apart
When it seats or when you flinch at the pop, the air rushes out of the valve hole but the tyre stays seated.Now blow them up with a hand pump easily
Also, put the stans gloop in after they are seated, just poor it through the valve stem.Failure to do this can end up making you look like a female porn star at the end of a long drawn out movie!

Edited by pawsmcgraw on Wednesday 6th February 00:14

not sure i understood any of that but it sounds impressive!!