Fat man on a bicycle
Discussion
Lapsed cyclist here, up until 10 years ago used to do 2 hours a day cross country on bridlepaths (never public footpaths of course ;-) ), don't like to road ride because I believe it is just not worth the risk- far too many numpties.
Anyway, the question is this- can anybody recommend a good strong cycle to start out with again.
To get this into perspective, I was 16 stone when I was fit!
Have now cushioned that out to an artery busting 22 stone and need to lose some flab, the problem is I could wreck bikes then- snapped chains, wheels wrecked riding up inclines, worn cogs, rapidly wearing rims etc. Still as strong now but heavier so bike needs to be better.
Any heavy regular cc riders out there with advice?
PS the old bike was a muddy fox alusport rigid- everything else broke but the frame held up until the ex took it!
Anyway, the question is this- can anybody recommend a good strong cycle to start out with again.
To get this into perspective, I was 16 stone when I was fit!
Have now cushioned that out to an artery busting 22 stone and need to lose some flab, the problem is I could wreck bikes then- snapped chains, wheels wrecked riding up inclines, worn cogs, rapidly wearing rims etc. Still as strong now but heavier so bike needs to be better.
Any heavy regular cc riders out there with advice?
PS the old bike was a muddy fox alusport rigid- everything else broke but the frame held up until the ex took it!
Edited by beermaddavep on Tuesday 18th December 01:25
Shouldnt be as much of a problem as you think.
Theres a massive variety of bikes available now. Look at anything from one the big brands that is in their 'trail' or 'all-mountain' ranges, and you'll find bikes that strike a balance between light-weight and toughness - generally, they will be heavier and stronger than the XC race style bikes, but less so than the type of bikes people jump of cliffs on.
Kona Hoss is a perfect example. To be honest, as long as you avoid super lightweight XC racers type bikes, you'll be fine on anything from the big manufacturers.
Theres a massive variety of bikes available now. Look at anything from one the big brands that is in their 'trail' or 'all-mountain' ranges, and you'll find bikes that strike a balance between light-weight and toughness - generally, they will be heavier and stronger than the XC race style bikes, but less so than the type of bikes people jump of cliffs on.
Kona Hoss is a perfect example. To be honest, as long as you avoid super lightweight XC racers type bikes, you'll be fine on anything from the big manufacturers.
Agreed, I looked at a Kona Hoss a couple of years back and was told I didn't need it unless I was going to be really hard on my kit. I was 17 stone at the time, so it could still be a god choice for you, and certainly something that will keep going and get you fitter.
Either that or buy something second hand, and prmoise yourself you'll buy something better when you get down to a certain weight target - doubly motivational!
Either that or buy something second hand, and prmoise yourself you'll buy something better when you get down to a certain weight target - doubly motivational!
If you're wanting do go down the FS route then I'd go for a bike with a coil-spring shock as oppossed to an air shock. Ditto for front forks. Coil springs can be easily changed to harder / softer spring rates but air springs have their limits (Fox being 19-stone irrc)
If you're looking for a HT then a Banshee (Mythic in the UK) Scirocco. It's basically a Cove Stiffee FR with a stronger rear triangle, available as a complete bike (iirc) and cheaper than the Cove. Alternatively you could get a Stiffee FR.
Cheaper still would be an On-One Inbred 456. Which, at £150 for the frame, is almost disposable.
As for components, well they wear regardless of rider weight and you'd be nieve to expect them not to. XT and X-9 are tougher than XTR or X-0 and I'd certainly invest in a good downhill/freeride set of wheels with 2.3 tyres wrapped around them. If you do break alot of quality components then I'd wager its a problem with your riding technique rather than 'weak' components.
A friend on mine has dropped around 10-stone (now around 16.5 stone) and started off riding XC on a GT Ruckas for a few years before moving onto a second-hand Orange E8(!) which he did snap recently - but only after 18-months and one very good week in Morzine. He now rides an Inbred 456.
If you're looking for a HT then a Banshee (Mythic in the UK) Scirocco. It's basically a Cove Stiffee FR with a stronger rear triangle, available as a complete bike (iirc) and cheaper than the Cove. Alternatively you could get a Stiffee FR.
Cheaper still would be an On-One Inbred 456. Which, at £150 for the frame, is almost disposable.
As for components, well they wear regardless of rider weight and you'd be nieve to expect them not to. XT and X-9 are tougher than XTR or X-0 and I'd certainly invest in a good downhill/freeride set of wheels with 2.3 tyres wrapped around them. If you do break alot of quality components then I'd wager its a problem with your riding technique rather than 'weak' components.
A friend on mine has dropped around 10-stone (now around 16.5 stone) and started off riding XC on a GT Ruckas for a few years before moving onto a second-hand Orange E8(!) which he did snap recently - but only after 18-months and one very good week in Morzine. He now rides an Inbred 456.
E38 said:
Funnily enough the heavier you are the less you can spend! The cheapy bridge girder ones will take your weight, but the ones for a couple of grand tend to limit you to 13 stone. It keeps me going to know that if I let myself go I couldn't even ride my XCer....
Frames, yes - simply put.Forks and Shocks - No.
My GT Avalanche 0.5 has served me well. It has really thick tubes and I've given it a bit of a pounding since I got it. Only things I have managed to break are spokes. Wasn't particularly cheap mind you but it was recommended for taller heavier riders. I was 23 stone when I got it, down to under 18 now.
Saddle bum said:
You need to buy the best tranmission components you can afford, at the same time you will have to accept that you will get though them relatively quickly until, that is, the flab starts to reduce.
I'd recommend the opposite. Buy the best frame/forks combo you can find and settle for anything SRAM or Shimano branded on the drivetrain - it's all good stuff.Kona Hoss without question.
You can pick them up second hand for reasonable costs, which IMO is a good idea until you are certain you want to stick with the cycling.
I was much the same as you, played a lot of Rugby when I was in my late teens/early twenties then stopped after Uni at which point I ballooned up to 20+st.
Got back into the cycling around 2 years ago and now sit around the 16st mark.
My first bike was a Hoss (or Hoff as it was dubbed!) and it did me well.
You can pick them up second hand for reasonable costs, which IMO is a good idea until you are certain you want to stick with the cycling.
I was much the same as you, played a lot of Rugby when I was in my late teens/early twenties then stopped after Uni at which point I ballooned up to 20+st.
Got back into the cycling around 2 years ago and now sit around the 16st mark.
My first bike was a Hoss (or Hoff as it was dubbed!) and it did me well.
Cheers for the replies lads, plenty to consider there. I'll keep an eye open in the january sales/small ads.
As a kid I learnt on racers (often ridden offroad with disastrous effects on the wheels and forks) then graduated later to rigid MTBs. Technology of course moves on.
So three more questions. How durable are suspension forks, and what are their benefits/pitfalls?
Same question regarding disc brakes? I've had alloy rims wear and blow out on me twice in the past and don't fancy repeating the experience....
also hydraulic brakes- expensive fad or best thing since bread and butter?
As a kid I learnt on racers (often ridden offroad with disastrous effects on the wheels and forks) then graduated later to rigid MTBs. Technology of course moves on.
So three more questions. How durable are suspension forks, and what are their benefits/pitfalls?
Same question regarding disc brakes? I've had alloy rims wear and blow out on me twice in the past and don't fancy repeating the experience....
also hydraulic brakes- expensive fad or best thing since bread and butter?
Disc brakes work in all conditions regardless. Rim brakes, even hydraulic ones suffer majorly in the wet or if you get alot of goop on the braking surface.
Suspension forks are given these days, you can ride so much faster and smoother off road with them and modern jobbies have all sorts of technical gubbins to give them good manners on all surfaces.
If you stick to known brand names you should never really have a problem, make sure everything is serviced once a year at least and kept in a reasonable condition and you'll be fine.
Suspension forks are given these days, you can ride so much faster and smoother off road with them and modern jobbies have all sorts of technical gubbins to give them good manners on all surfaces.
If you stick to known brand names you should never really have a problem, make sure everything is serviced once a year at least and kept in a reasonable condition and you'll be fine.
Fork wise, if you want something thats very "fit and forget" then go for something Marzocchi. RockShox and Fox need much more regular servicing IMO.
Disc brakes are superb. Being a big guy you want to go for at least 185mm rotors. I run Hope Mono M4's with 203mm discs front and rear which can stop me fine.
Disc brakes are superb. Being a big guy you want to go for at least 185mm rotors. I run Hope Mono M4's with 203mm discs front and rear which can stop me fine.
OK. I don't want to go down the custom build route yet(need to be certain i'll keep it up again). Although initial rides will realistically be easy cycleways until the stamina returns, I want to get back to rough singletrack picked out from OS maps in the north east.
What do you lads think of this?
http://www.awcycles.co.uk/brands/Kona/Hoss%20Delux...
All opinions welcome good or bad.
What do you lads think of this?
http://www.awcycles.co.uk/brands/Kona/Hoss%20Delux...
All opinions welcome good or bad.
Edited by beermaddavep on Wednesday 26th December 01:18
I think that would do you OK. Decent kit on it for a starter bike, good strong components with plenty of scope for upgrades if it takes you. The only hole I'd pick would be the forks, my old Hoss had those and they really are awful when tried back to back with a "better" fork. Pop into the shop and you can have a look.
Are you local to Reading or are you looking mail order? AW are a very good shop to deal with in either respect.
Are you local to Reading or are you looking mail order? AW are a very good shop to deal with in either respect.
beermaddavep said:
OK. I don't want to go down the custom build route yet(need to be certain i'll keep it up again). Although initial rides will realistically be easy cycleways until the stamina returns, I want to get back to rough singletrack picked out from OS maps in the north east.
What do you lads think of this?
http://www.awcycles.co.uk/brands/Kona/Hoss%20Delux...
All opinions welcome good or bad.
Looks pretty decent but how tall are you? 20" is huge, there is no way I'd expect to b able to do any proper off road on a 20" and I'm 6'1.What do you lads think of this?
http://www.awcycles.co.uk/brands/Kona/Hoss%20Delux...
All opinions welcome good or bad.
6 foot tall( another foot and I'll be the right height for my weight), not local to Reading mate, village near Durham. The much missed muddy fox was a small (18"ish?) frame, will try the bike before I buy though, don't mind the drive to get it!
Edited by beermaddavep on Friday 28th December 04:52
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