Tyres / tubes etc.
Discussion
I dont know much about the technicalities of mountain bikes so I need some help from the experts.
My tyres are quite worn and every time I go out I seem to get puncture(s).
I need to replace the tyres but what I want to do is replace with some good puncture resistant tyres, puncture resistant tubes etc.
What do I need to get a set up with the best puncture resistant properties short of going for "solid" tyres?
My tyres are quite worn and every time I go out I seem to get puncture(s).
I need to replace the tyres but what I want to do is replace with some good puncture resistant tyres, puncture resistant tubes etc.
What do I need to get a set up with the best puncture resistant properties short of going for "solid" tyres?
Depends what type of punctures you're getting. If they are thorn or prick typres then running tubless with tyre spunk would be the lightest option. If you're get snake bites all the time you're either running too low a pressure or too low a volume tyre.
I've never found that worn tyres are any more suceptable to punctures than a new one. It is usually a set-up issue rather than a mechanical issue.
What type of punctures are they? What size tyres are you running?
I've never found that worn tyres are any more suceptable to punctures than a new one. It is usually a set-up issue rather than a mechanical issue.
What type of punctures are they? What size tyres are you running?
mk1fan said:
Depends what type of punctures you're getting. If they are thorn or prick typres then running tubless with tyre spunk would be the lightest option. If you're get snake bites all the time you're either running too low a pressure or too low a volume tyre.
I've never found that worn tyres are any more suceptable to punctures than a new one. It is usually a set-up issue rather than a mechanical issue.
What type of punctures are they? What size tyres are you running?
I have a carbon fibre Giant XTC on Bontrager rims. I have no idea what the tyres are (supplied with bike) but are approx 2.5 inch wide with a high tyre wall. The rear is worn so the centre line of tread is about 1mm high.I've never found that worn tyres are any more suceptable to punctures than a new one. It is usually a set-up issue rather than a mechanical issue.
What type of punctures are they? What size tyres are you running?
I am getting all sorts of puncture, some quite big holes that have been so hard to fix I have just replaced the tube (mainly on the side of the tube) and rashes of small holes. I ride in varied terrain from tarmac to gravel "paths" to woodland paths and heather heathland with a large amount of briar etc.
Hope this helps...
Most important factor.
Back on topic.
The size of the tyre is printed on the sidewall. It'll be 26 x ...... This second figure (for simplicity) is it's width. Genrally Road bikes run 700 x ..... sized tyres but this getting off topic. If you are really interested in learning more about tyres go to the Schwalbe website.
I weigh 14-stone (I've sneakily lost a stone somewhere but I don't know where) and run (non UST) 26 x 2.1 Panaracer XC Pro's on my Mavic 321 rims. I run these all year round and have found them to be excellent all rounder in the UK conditions. I don't use inner tubes but the Stan's No Tubes system. I used to run the 26 x 1.8 size of this tyre but suffered greatly from 'snake bite' punctures when I ran them at a decent pressure. This is because of there being insufficient volume of air in the 1.8 to support my weight adequately. Once I stepped up to the 2.1's I didn't have this problem. I then went through a phase of getting 'thorn' punctures. So decided to do away with the tubes and give Stan's a try.
I have had no problems at all. Although the tyres are not the UST version an extra scoop of tyre spunk sealed them up perfectly. They lost about 5psi the first week but since then they haven't lost anything. The tyre spunk acts as a glue to seal up any 'thorn' punctures as the occur. Having watched it do it's stuff on the trail it's certainly intreeging stuff that works.
It is a faff to fit (fitting a tube is a lot quicker) but it is lighter right where you want to save weight (outer edge of the wheel).
Final point on tyre size. It sounds like you do mainly XC riding and light Trails. I would say that you'd need no larger tyre than a 2.1 (unless you're heavier than 16-stone and then I'd say use 2.3's) in the UK.
As for suggesting a tyre well that's down to personal choice. I really rate the XC Pro's but there are those on here who detest them. Maxxis High Rollers are very good but can drag (especially Super Tacky version) and I found them to have a transition area between the side knobs and the top knobs where grip was reduced. I'll be fitting them for Morzine next year all the same. Try the LBS in the area that you ride and ask them what tyres are most popular for the area.
The size of the tyre is printed on the sidewall. It'll be 26 x ...... This second figure (for simplicity) is it's width. Genrally Road bikes run 700 x ..... sized tyres but this getting off topic. If you are really interested in learning more about tyres go to the Schwalbe website.
I weigh 14-stone (I've sneakily lost a stone somewhere but I don't know where) and run (non UST) 26 x 2.1 Panaracer XC Pro's on my Mavic 321 rims. I run these all year round and have found them to be excellent all rounder in the UK conditions. I don't use inner tubes but the Stan's No Tubes system. I used to run the 26 x 1.8 size of this tyre but suffered greatly from 'snake bite' punctures when I ran them at a decent pressure. This is because of there being insufficient volume of air in the 1.8 to support my weight adequately. Once I stepped up to the 2.1's I didn't have this problem. I then went through a phase of getting 'thorn' punctures. So decided to do away with the tubes and give Stan's a try.
I have had no problems at all. Although the tyres are not the UST version an extra scoop of tyre spunk sealed them up perfectly. They lost about 5psi the first week but since then they haven't lost anything. The tyre spunk acts as a glue to seal up any 'thorn' punctures as the occur. Having watched it do it's stuff on the trail it's certainly intreeging stuff that works.
It is a faff to fit (fitting a tube is a lot quicker) but it is lighter right where you want to save weight (outer edge of the wheel).
Final point on tyre size. It sounds like you do mainly XC riding and light Trails. I would say that you'd need no larger tyre than a 2.1 (unless you're heavier than 16-stone and then I'd say use 2.3's) in the UK.
As for suggesting a tyre well that's down to personal choice. I really rate the XC Pro's but there are those on here who detest them. Maxxis High Rollers are very good but can drag (especially Super Tacky version) and I found them to have a transition area between the side knobs and the top knobs where grip was reduced. I'll be fitting them for Morzine next year all the same. Try the LBS in the area that you ride and ask them what tyres are most popular for the area.
Gooby said:
Are tubeless tyres any good? What happens if you get a catastrophic puncture. With a 'tube, I would just swap tubes - job done (annoying / irritating but job done). What happens when you are tubeless?
Depends how bad - any tears in the tyre will stop you dead whereas with a tyre & tube you could possibly bodge a get-you-home repair.Having said that, I've only ever torn a tyre once and then it wasn't so bad that a new tube couldn't let me carry on (carefully). Not sure what I'd have done (other than walk) if tubeless.
Gooby said:
Are tubeless tyres any good? What happens if you get a catastrophic puncture. With a 'tube, I would just swap tubes - job done (annoying / irritating but job done). What happens when you are tubeless?
I think the advice is to carry a tube anyway, that way, you can always stick in the tube to get you home.CH
Not sure what you mean by catastrophic? If a tyre is sliced open so much that the tyre spunk doesn't seal it a tube will just burst through it anyway. The worst 'failure'I have seen was a six inch gash in the side wall of a tyre but again a spare tube won't fix that anyway.
As part of my spares I carry two tubes; and patches and tape to patch together the failed tyre enough to get me home. I do carry sufficient tools to rebuild an entire bike if needed.
The beauty of Stan's system is that you don't need to run a specific tubeless (or UST) tyre. Practically any tyre can be run tubeless using it. DT Swiss also do a kit which is slightly cheaper.
Tubes with 'Slime' in them are very heavy and in my experience don't work very well but that's just my opinion.
As part of my spares I carry two tubes; and patches and tape to patch together the failed tyre enough to get me home. I do carry sufficient tools to rebuild an entire bike if needed.
The beauty of Stan's system is that you don't need to run a specific tubeless (or UST) tyre. Practically any tyre can be run tubeless using it. DT Swiss also do a kit which is slightly cheaper.
Tubes with 'Slime' in them are very heavy and in my experience don't work very well but that's just my opinion.
Right...
I went down to my local bike specialist and spent a little money.
I am the proud new owner of Panaracer Fire XC pro tyres, apparently these offer the best ratio of weight and puncture resistence. On the inside of the tyre I have put a strip of "panaracer Flat away". This is a super light 100% kevlar pad that sticks to the inside of the tyre and stops punctures. It must be good because I had trouble cutting it to size. I also got a new set of Bontrager inner tubes.
After doing the front wheel twice - didnt realise the tyres were directional (doh!) I pumped up the tyres to 55psi.
Remember I said I didnt know much about bikes? Well I think I have found the reason for most of my punctures - I was only inflating the old tyres to about 30 - 35 psi.
Oh well the new tyres seem pretty good and roll well with 55psi in them so I am off to the Purbecs for a ride...
I went down to my local bike specialist and spent a little money.
I am the proud new owner of Panaracer Fire XC pro tyres, apparently these offer the best ratio of weight and puncture resistence. On the inside of the tyre I have put a strip of "panaracer Flat away". This is a super light 100% kevlar pad that sticks to the inside of the tyre and stops punctures. It must be good because I had trouble cutting it to size. I also got a new set of Bontrager inner tubes.
After doing the front wheel twice - didnt realise the tyres were directional (doh!) I pumped up the tyres to 55psi.
Remember I said I didnt know much about bikes? Well I think I have found the reason for most of my punctures - I was only inflating the old tyres to about 30 - 35 psi.
Oh well the new tyres seem pretty good and roll well with 55psi in them so I am off to the Purbecs for a ride...
Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff