New bike or replace parts?
Discussion
I'm going to be moving to Bristol in a few weeks, and I'll more than likely be working in the city centre, which is about 5 miles from the flat I've got, So I'm toying with the idea of biking to work (partly cost and partly because I've heard the Bristol traffic is very bad!) I used to mountain bike loads a few years ago (when I was 19/20 - I'm now 26), and I still have my old bike, a Claud Butler Cape Wrath, which I think I bought for about £500 back in 2000ish.
However, its not been ridden for a 5 years, and I'm sure the forks are slightly bent after a collision with a tree!
I've been out of the scene for a few years, but Bristol is much better for mountain biking than Peterborough, so its likely that I'll get back into it, but I'd prefer not to lay out £500/600/700 straight away!
So would I be better off replacing a the parts that need replacing i.e. forks, brakes (crappy avid cable disk brakes) wheels (pig heavy "V" rims - I think they weigh at least 12-15lbs for the pair!) plus a few other bits, keeping the good bits (LX mechs and shifters, decentish SR Suntour crank, 7061 alloy frame) or just buying a 2006/2007 model hardtail for a few hundred and upgrading if/when I catch the bug again?
However, its not been ridden for a 5 years, and I'm sure the forks are slightly bent after a collision with a tree!
I've been out of the scene for a few years, but Bristol is much better for mountain biking than Peterborough, so its likely that I'll get back into it, but I'd prefer not to lay out £500/600/700 straight away!
So would I be better off replacing a the parts that need replacing i.e. forks, brakes (crappy avid cable disk brakes) wheels (pig heavy "V" rims - I think they weigh at least 12-15lbs for the pair!) plus a few other bits, keeping the good bits (LX mechs and shifters, decentish SR Suntour crank, 7061 alloy frame) or just buying a 2006/2007 model hardtail for a few hundred and upgrading if/when I catch the bug again?
Hi Paul,
I just got back into mountain biking in the last year and bought a spec hardrock - I'm now wondering about upgrading at some point and was pricing up buying new stuff to bung on the frame, or just wait a year and pick up a 2007 bike in the 2008 sales (if you see what I mean)... anyway, pricing it up (very roughly) for mid-range stuff forks (200), hydraulic disks (200), lighter wheelset (100)... I came to the conclusion that I'm just as well off waiting until the next round of sales and buying a brand new bike... as was pointed out to me, the manufacturers buying power and OEM parts means that you get more for your money buying a built up bike than doing it yourself (although there is a certain satisfaction in that).
OK, that's a kind of long way around to saying, why not just get the minimum you need to get the bike rideable, and upgrade when you think it's justifiable - then keep your claud butler as a commuter bike? Your new company might even have a bike-2-work scheme, of which the end result is that you can get a bike for a fair bit less than retail.
CH
ETA: I mean a 2008 bike in the end-of-season 2008 sales
I just got back into mountain biking in the last year and bought a spec hardrock - I'm now wondering about upgrading at some point and was pricing up buying new stuff to bung on the frame, or just wait a year and pick up a 2007 bike in the 2008 sales (if you see what I mean)... anyway, pricing it up (very roughly) for mid-range stuff forks (200), hydraulic disks (200), lighter wheelset (100)... I came to the conclusion that I'm just as well off waiting until the next round of sales and buying a brand new bike... as was pointed out to me, the manufacturers buying power and OEM parts means that you get more for your money buying a built up bike than doing it yourself (although there is a certain satisfaction in that).
OK, that's a kind of long way around to saying, why not just get the minimum you need to get the bike rideable, and upgrade when you think it's justifiable - then keep your claud butler as a commuter bike? Your new company might even have a bike-2-work scheme, of which the end result is that you can get a bike for a fair bit less than retail.
CH
ETA: I mean a 2008 bike in the end-of-season 2008 sales
Edited by Dr Bob on Tuesday 9th October 06:10
Building things up/upgrading will always work out more expensive than buying a full bike off the peg, but it is very satisfying and you can get a unique bike with exactly what you need. I find that very rarely do you get an off the peg bike that has absolutely everything you require in terms of bits.
Sorry for a slight hijack here, but i am also thinking of speccing up my trusty Hardrock sport. Does anyone know if the frame is of a decent weight to do this?
Sorry for a slight hijack here, but i am also thinking of speccing up my trusty Hardrock sport. Does anyone know if the frame is of a decent weight to do this?
Edited by gbbird on Wednesday 10th October 10:35
The Kona Smoke can be had for £250 and this comes with mudguards and a rack (iirc) all ready to go for commuting. Edinburgh Cycle Co-Op's range of Revolution bikes are well worth a look too. MBR this month have a review of Urban commuter bikes.
Don't forget you'll need lights (by this I mean multiple front and rear), panniers (I'd run two - one either side - to keep the bike balanced and the wheel from being eccentrically overloaded) or a rucksack and (importantly) a decent bike lock.
I would be inclined to have a specific commuting bike over trying to use one bike to do it all. It is possible but can be pita changing tyres, changing air pressures in forks etc.. to convert the bike between duties.
Avid mech brakes are the best around and shame a lot of hydralic brakes. They are more than powerfull enough for road duties and certainly better than side pull pivots or V brakes. If they aren't stopping you on a dime then there's something wrong with them (pad contamination, cable adjustment etc..).
Does the Cape Wrath frame have threaded eyelets on the rear to enable you fit proper mud guards and a pannier rack (you'll need a disc brake rack)? The reason I ask is it might be worth converting it over to road use. Kona Project II rigid forks come up eBay regularily (although the single butted forks can be had new for circa £35 of Wiggle). These would replace your bent forks a treat and come with IS disc mount and eylets for mudguards. Replacing your wheels with some disc specific items would save weight but be warned, commuting puts a great deal of stress on wheels - the additional weight of your work clothes etc.. - so consider the length of your ride and the ground conditions (tow path, smooth road, potholed roads etc..). I run 36-hole touring wheels on my commuter and 32-hole wheels on my Stiffee. You may also consider running 700 sized wheels on the Cape - the frame should accomadate up to a 700x32c wheel & tyre. This would be alot faster then the 26ich mtb rims although you'd get more comfort off the 26-inch wheels and a larger volume tyre (26x1.9 for example).
Lights are a funny thing. There are those that are to be seen and those that allow you to see. If your commute is well lit road then I would forgo the latter type in favour of a selection of those from the former catagory. Cycling Plus this month has a review of such lights.
Finally tyre choice - I run Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres on my mtb road wheels and they are bullet proof. I've used them off road for a laugh and they haven't punctured at all. They are heavy but I'd rather that then trying to fix a puncture in the depths of winter. They are available in both 26 and 700 sizes. Cycling Plus reccommend them as 'the' fit and forget commuter tyre. They will be going on my commuter just before Xmas when the Vittoria's are fully wornout.
Adding that up - forks £35, mudguards £20, pannier rack £20, pannier bag £40, lights £50, wheels £80, tyres £52 (but they're worth it), locks £70 - and it's £347 excluding what sounds like a desperately needed brake overhaul. You could keep the wheels you have now but knobblies on the road are no fun at all so at least change them for slicks. If you can fit all you need into a reasonably sized rucksack then you can forgo the pannier and bags. Then the costs is just over £200.
Convert the Cape Wrath. Get in shape commuting on it and save up for a dedicated mountain bike. You won't be disappointed.
Don't forget you'll need lights (by this I mean multiple front and rear), panniers (I'd run two - one either side - to keep the bike balanced and the wheel from being eccentrically overloaded) or a rucksack and (importantly) a decent bike lock.
I would be inclined to have a specific commuting bike over trying to use one bike to do it all. It is possible but can be pita changing tyres, changing air pressures in forks etc.. to convert the bike between duties.
Avid mech brakes are the best around and shame a lot of hydralic brakes. They are more than powerfull enough for road duties and certainly better than side pull pivots or V brakes. If they aren't stopping you on a dime then there's something wrong with them (pad contamination, cable adjustment etc..).
Does the Cape Wrath frame have threaded eyelets on the rear to enable you fit proper mud guards and a pannier rack (you'll need a disc brake rack)? The reason I ask is it might be worth converting it over to road use. Kona Project II rigid forks come up eBay regularily (although the single butted forks can be had new for circa £35 of Wiggle). These would replace your bent forks a treat and come with IS disc mount and eylets for mudguards. Replacing your wheels with some disc specific items would save weight but be warned, commuting puts a great deal of stress on wheels - the additional weight of your work clothes etc.. - so consider the length of your ride and the ground conditions (tow path, smooth road, potholed roads etc..). I run 36-hole touring wheels on my commuter and 32-hole wheels on my Stiffee. You may also consider running 700 sized wheels on the Cape - the frame should accomadate up to a 700x32c wheel & tyre. This would be alot faster then the 26ich mtb rims although you'd get more comfort off the 26-inch wheels and a larger volume tyre (26x1.9 for example).
Lights are a funny thing. There are those that are to be seen and those that allow you to see. If your commute is well lit road then I would forgo the latter type in favour of a selection of those from the former catagory. Cycling Plus this month has a review of such lights.
Finally tyre choice - I run Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres on my mtb road wheels and they are bullet proof. I've used them off road for a laugh and they haven't punctured at all. They are heavy but I'd rather that then trying to fix a puncture in the depths of winter. They are available in both 26 and 700 sizes. Cycling Plus reccommend them as 'the' fit and forget commuter tyre. They will be going on my commuter just before Xmas when the Vittoria's are fully wornout.
Adding that up - forks £35, mudguards £20, pannier rack £20, pannier bag £40, lights £50, wheels £80, tyres £52 (but they're worth it), locks £70 - and it's £347 excluding what sounds like a desperately needed brake overhaul. You could keep the wheels you have now but knobblies on the road are no fun at all so at least change them for slicks. If you can fit all you need into a reasonably sized rucksack then you can forgo the pannier and bags. Then the costs is just over £200.
Convert the Cape Wrath. Get in shape commuting on it and save up for a dedicated mountain bike. You won't be disappointed.
mk1fan said:
Lots of good stuff
Thanks for the advice, a good part of the route I'll be taking to work will be light off-road (open singletrack/bridleways), and I should have access to showers and bike storage at my place of work (if I don't, I'll use Mud Dock - bike storage and showers) so I don't really want a full-on commuter bike. The only bits I really need to replace are the forks and the brakes (these are actually formula cable discs, and they are terrible!) I could probably service the brakes, but I wouldn't feel 100% comfortable relying on them taking on the Bristol traffic, however the forks are definately slightly bent, so they will need replacing. Wheel wise I can stick with what I have for the time being, bar getting some semi-slicks.
I'll only be carrying a few bits, and I have a rucksack that I've used for snowboarding so I won't need panniers or a rack, and I won't bother with mudguards as I don't mind getting a bit mucky, and I already have a decent lock.
So...anyone have any reccomendations for a set of good value (maybe 05/06 model) half-decent light-ish short travel (80mm)forks and a set of hydrualic disc brakes? Probably looking to pay about £200-250ish for the forks and brakes combined, as I'll need to get some lights, tyres, some riding clothes, and I'll probably get some SPD pedals and shoes too.
pdV6 said:
Tall_Paul said:
a good part of the route I'll be taking to work will be light off-road (open singletrack/bridleways)
Interesting - where will you be heading in from to get that kind of commute?
I'd still consider getting a set of Project II forks to replace the bent ones. If it is light off roading along tow path / bridleways a rigid fork will be fine. Putting some 2.0 semi slicks on will give you enough cushioning on the off road sections and you'll feel the benifit of a rigid fork on the road sections. Any fork in the £250 and below section is going to be,frankly, pony and horrible to ride on the road sections. Spend £35 on a set of Project II's and put £215 towards a dedicated off roader.
As for brakes well, Chain Reaction did have a massive sale on for brakes more than 50% off. If they have finished that then Avid Juicy Three's are a great basic hydraulic brake. But pad changing can be a faff and you have to use DoT fluid in them. Shimano ones are now coming pre bled which makes them a whole lot easier to retro fit and pad changing is easier than typing this reply. Plus they use mineral oil. Other than that Hope are good you can get a set of used mini mono's off eBay for very good price.
On a final note You may want to have a look at the Avid BB7 mechanical brakes. They are as powerful as a lot of hydraulic brakes and easier to service plus would be cheaper option again (about £80 notes). They would be more than adequate for commuting and a lot of off roading.
ETA: misread you'd post to read forks to be £250 not everything! In which case definately go rigid fork. Any sus fork in the £100 odd category will be pony with little or no control and or adjustments.
As for brakes well, Chain Reaction did have a massive sale on for brakes more than 50% off. If they have finished that then Avid Juicy Three's are a great basic hydraulic brake. But pad changing can be a faff and you have to use DoT fluid in them. Shimano ones are now coming pre bled which makes them a whole lot easier to retro fit and pad changing is easier than typing this reply. Plus they use mineral oil. Other than that Hope are good you can get a set of used mini mono's off eBay for very good price.
On a final note You may want to have a look at the Avid BB7 mechanical brakes. They are as powerful as a lot of hydraulic brakes and easier to service plus would be cheaper option again (about £80 notes). They would be more than adequate for commuting and a lot of off roading.
ETA: misread you'd post to read forks to be £250 not everything! In which case definately go rigid fork. Any sus fork in the £100 odd category will be pony with little or no control and or adjustments.
Edited by mk1fan on Thursday 11th October 19:01
Second the Project II's - I put a set on my Marin that I use for commuting when the ancient Manitou Spyder R's that were on it gave up. They're great; light & tough.
To be honest, the Spyders hadn't had a service for a fair old while and weren't really doing much good as suspension anyway...
To be honest, the Spyders hadn't had a service for a fair old while and weren't really doing much good as suspension anyway...
Tall_Paul said:
pdV6 said:
Tall_Paul said:
a good part of the route I'll be taking to work will be light off-road (open singletrack/bridleways)
Interesting - where will you be heading in from to get that kind of commute?I wouldn't advise the top of Purdown, its not exactly a barrel of laughs riding across there (just grass) and doesn't get you really in any better a position to get to UWE.
We are talking about UWE down by St. Pauls, and not Filton aren't we?
Tall_Paul said:
Cheers guys, my flat is close to the main UWE site (Filton), I think its classed as Stoke Park or Stapleton. I'll need to have a proper look into a good route to get to work, but I'm hoping to be working on the waterfront/city centre area.
Stoke Park - I only know this, as the missus keeps banging on about moving there...If yer working in the city centre, then my route as I mentioned still stands...
I decided to build a station bike having spotted a frame on Chain Reaction Cycles reduced from £200 to £60. Had most of the parts required apart from consumables which I would replace on a second hand snotter anyway. Built it all up and discovered that the frame was a 29er!!! Not happy. CRC were awesome and admitted full responsibility despite it being a supplier error.
They sent me a new frame and did me an awesome deal on a seat pin (£30 to £5). End state is an XTR / XT / LX alloy bike with new tyres, cables, brake blocks and chain.
I even salvaged the some bits from a knackered LX front mech to repair an XT one.
Total cost was £168 including NOKON cables which are chingy and a pain in the arse to fit but are awesome once on.
In my opion if you (or your mates) have spares kicking around then it is better to build rather than buy a whole bike.
They sent me a new frame and did me an awesome deal on a seat pin (£30 to £5). End state is an XTR / XT / LX alloy bike with new tyres, cables, brake blocks and chain.
I even salvaged the some bits from a knackered LX front mech to repair an XT one.
Total cost was £168 including NOKON cables which are chingy and a pain in the arse to fit but are awesome once on.
In my opion if you (or your mates) have spares kicking around then it is better to build rather than buy a whole bike.
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