Steep technical climbs - how!?
Discussion
If you've not guessed already, I'm talking about Cwmcarn.
I'm an utter retard when the gradient gets high, and even on a good day I'll probably push my way up 50% of the rocky, rooty climbs at Cwmcarn.
Can any of you do all of the climbs without giving up and pushing? If so, pleeease share your methods/techniques!
I'm an utter retard when the gradient gets high, and even on a good day I'll probably push my way up 50% of the rocky, rooty climbs at Cwmcarn.
Can any of you do all of the climbs without giving up and pushing? If so, pleeease share your methods/techniques!
Edited by GHW on Wednesday 12th September 11:00
I've done the climbs - but not all in one go.
Theres two techniques:
The "sat down and bastard well slog your way up"
The "Stand up and hero stylee it up"
The first works well with full sussers, and the second with hardtails.
However its a combination of gearing and a trick called 'feathering' - where you move your weight forward and backwards depending on the grip required.
Realistically, practise and stamina are best ways - I can get up no worries if I go all out - but I suffer afterwards as a result!
Bear in mind, I consider the first climb at Cymcarn to be one of trickiest and longest I've ever ridden in over 15 years - so its certainly a very technical one!
Theres two techniques:
The "sat down and bastard well slog your way up"
The "Stand up and hero stylee it up"
The first works well with full sussers, and the second with hardtails.
However its a combination of gearing and a trick called 'feathering' - where you move your weight forward and backwards depending on the grip required.
Realistically, practise and stamina are best ways - I can get up no worries if I go all out - but I suffer afterwards as a result!
Bear in mind, I consider the first climb at Cymcarn to be one of trickiest and longest I've ever ridden in over 15 years - so its certainly a very technical one!
On my full suss Id normally just get off and push!
On the climbs I can manage I find sliding forward on the saddle a bit and just pounding away works best, pull with your arms too as this helps get the power down.
To help get the bike over roots/rocks etc I tend to pull the front up a bit to get the front wheel up and then kind of, 'hump' the back over it by throwing my weight forward.
On the climbs I can manage I find sliding forward on the saddle a bit and just pounding away works best, pull with your arms too as this helps get the power down.
To help get the bike over roots/rocks etc I tend to pull the front up a bit to get the front wheel up and then kind of, 'hump' the back over it by throwing my weight forward.
Heading to Cwn Carn on Saturday with mk1fan as it goes I'll see how the climb is. Last time I hadn't set my rear shock up and was getting alot of pedal strikes hoping that now I have set it up it will be ok.
We will see if it's still stiking if it is then I guess I could be walking it, last couple times at CC I've found the climb quite tough and needed to catch my breath half way up.
Just got keep practing the technical climbs they will come good.
We will see if it's still stiking if it is then I guess I could be walking it, last couple times at CC I've found the climb quite tough and needed to catch my breath half way up.
Just got keep practing the technical climbs they will come good.
GHW said:
If you've not guessed already, I'm talking about Cwmcarn.
I'm an utter retard when the gradient gets high, and even on a good day I'll probably push my way up 50% of the rocky, rooty climbs at Cwmcarn.
Can any of you do all of the climbs without giving up and pushing? If so, pleeease share your methods/techniques!
Yes. As you approch and see your climb ahead, better when you can see a summit, pace yourself. 5 tenths at the bottom, 7 tenths at three quaters of the way up, and 10 tenths as you reach the peak. Its knowing your body and judging your effort. Read the trail ahead, that Cwncarn climb is pretty slow, dont be afraid to get out of the saddle, give it some beans and barge up and over the rooty bits, then sit down as it will then feel like a rest. As Neil said, STAMINA. I'm an utter retard when the gradient gets high, and even on a good day I'll probably push my way up 50% of the rocky, rooty climbs at Cwmcarn.
Can any of you do all of the climbs without giving up and pushing? If so, pleeease share your methods/techniques!
Edited by GHW on Wednesday 12th September 11:00
Also get to the top first then have a rest waiting for your mates!!!!
Completely agree with all of the above.
It depends on so many factors, your bike, the steepness, the size of the rocks, etc.
of course, for climbs that are really short yet very tough/technical, there is one other technique (that works best if you have a bit of suspension travel/skill beneath you).
Get a run up, and hit it as fast as you can. Usually middle ring, flat out, launch yourself at it.
Only reccomended where its short enough to keep your momentum till you crest.
It depends on so many factors, your bike, the steepness, the size of the rocks, etc.
of course, for climbs that are really short yet very tough/technical, there is one other technique (that works best if you have a bit of suspension travel/skill beneath you).
Get a run up, and hit it as fast as you can. Usually middle ring, flat out, launch yourself at it.
Only reccomended where its short enough to keep your momentum till you crest.
snotrag said:
Completely agree with all of the above.
It depends on so many factors, your bike, the steepness, the size of the rocks, etc.
of course, for climbs that are really short yet very tough/technical, there is one other technique (that works best if you have a bit of suspension travel/skill beneath you).
Get a run up, and hit it as fast as you can. Usually middle ring, flat out, launch yourself at it.
Only reccomended where its short enough to keep your momentum till you crest.
Ooh yeah, had forgotten about that one.It depends on so many factors, your bike, the steepness, the size of the rocks, etc.
of course, for climbs that are really short yet very tough/technical, there is one other technique (that works best if you have a bit of suspension travel/skill beneath you).
Get a run up, and hit it as fast as you can. Usually middle ring, flat out, launch yourself at it.
Only reccomended where its short enough to keep your momentum till you crest.
Mind you I was doing when I was 16 years old and a smite fitter/more enthusiastic.
Its more like this now...: "Ooh, thats a bit steep, might just hop off now"
Here's my approach, Low gear, usually small ring but not 1st, try 2nd or 3rd depending on gradient. You need drive and want to keep the front down so that's why I don't go for 1st. Next sit at the front of your saddle and push your wrists down so your weight is pulled down and forward. If it is a full bouncer, don't lock out your shock, run it in fully open mode. Pick your route before you start and pedal smoothly with even strokes. Even if you are running a full bouncer help the bike up the hill, don't just crash into rocks and let the suspension take it, help the bike up and over stuff. That way you keep ypur momentum which is key to getting up tricky ascents.
R1 GTR said:
If i take Neils comment on standing up etc on hardtails, 1st gear on my bike is just impossible to use when standing up but 2nd or 3rd is normally to much hard work. (Yes i know im a lazy t
t)
I do hope none of you girls are using your inner ring for climbs?t)You should be able to climb anything in a middle ring - I find inner ring just too fiddly to do any technical climbing with.
Besides, inner rings are for girls/grannies, hence the name
neil_bolton said:
I do hope none of you girls are using your inner ring for climbs?
You should be able to climb anything in a middle ring - I find inner ring just too fiddly to do any technical climbing with.
My granny ring hardly ever gets used.You should be able to climb anything in a middle ring - I find inner ring just too fiddly to do any technical climbing with.
However, the one time in recent memory that I have used it in anger was at Cwm Carn.
In my defence, I'm running an 8sp drivetrain and quality cassettes only seem to be available in 11-28T, so it was tricky to find the right ratio for the long climbs using the middle ring.
R1 GTR said:
1st gear on my bike is just impossible to use when standing up but 2nd or 3rd is normally to much hard work
Are you running an 11-34T cassette that has a huge jump from 1st to 2nd maybe?Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff