Advice please - changing pedals
Discussion
Hi,
I have two sets of pedals for my mtb, flats (Easton flatboys) and clippless (candy sls). I like to ride flats when doing all-mountain style rides (e.g. Lake District) and clippless for cross-country (e.g. Surrey Hills).
I have been asking my bike shop to change the pedals for me... but I really think I should be able to do this myself. I've got myself an appropriate spanner and some greese.... but, do I need a torque wrentch for this kind of work. Do other PHers tackle this at home without torque wrenches - if so any tips?
Thanks,
Ian
I have two sets of pedals for my mtb, flats (Easton flatboys) and clippless (candy sls). I like to ride flats when doing all-mountain style rides (e.g. Lake District) and clippless for cross-country (e.g. Surrey Hills).
I have been asking my bike shop to change the pedals for me... but I really think I should be able to do this myself. I've got myself an appropriate spanner and some greese.... but, do I need a torque wrentch for this kind of work. Do other PHers tackle this at home without torque wrenches - if so any tips?
Thanks,
Ian
One more thing I'd ass to this is, is that if you have the cash buy a proper pedal spanner or at least a high quality 15mm spanner. Being as you'll be using it a lot make sure you buy quality so it doesn't turn to cheese after a while.
Also, make sure the threads are nice and clean and check in the crank arm to make sure there's no crud in there. Apply a light smear of grease too when putting them in. Take car putting them in to avoid crossing the threads as the axles on the pedals are a lot tougher than the crank arms, cross threading will mean ranted crank arms after a while!.
T
Also, make sure the threads are nice and clean and check in the crank arm to make sure there's no crud in there. Apply a light smear of grease too when putting them in. Take car putting them in to avoid crossing the threads as the axles on the pedals are a lot tougher than the crank arms, cross threading will mean ranted crank arms after a while!.
T
Greendubber said:
One more thing I'd add to this is, is that if you have the cash buy a proper pedal spanner or at least a high quality 15mm spanner. Being as you'll be using it a lot make sure you buy quality so it doesn't turn to cheese after a while.
Agree 100%. The longer the better too. A proper pedal spanner will give you loads of leverage meaning that you will be putting less pressure on the spanner when it does finally give. Doing this with too short a spanner could cause a nasty knuckle grazing accident when the pedal first breaks it's thread. Not nice!!
MTY4000 said:
Good advice thanks. I've bought a pedal spanner for the job, not cheap but I will get the use out of it.
It is well worth it, even if you do feel like you're buying shares in the shop thats sold it to you 
Just make sure you keep an eye on it, took me 4 months to track mine down in a mates tool box after I lent it to him before a ride once
Maybe not for bikes, but for car mechanics a good torque wrench is essential, and one tool worth spending good money on.
They are nearly always socket wrenches anyway, and not suited to apprications that can only be done with an open ended spanner. Attachements for the wrench are available (got some to prove it!), and you could always torque using the allen head on the rear of the pedal arm too (if available)
They are nearly always socket wrenches anyway, and not suited to apprications that can only be done with an open ended spanner. Attachements for the wrench are available (got some to prove it!), and you could always torque using the allen head on the rear of the pedal arm too (if available)
mat205125 said:
Maybe not for bikes, but for car mechanics a good torque wrench is essential, and one tool worth spending good money on.
They are nearly always socket wrenches anyway, and not suited to apprications that can only be done with an open ended spanner. Attachements for the wrench are available (got some to prove it!), and you could always torque using the allen head on the rear of the pedal arm too (if available)
The pedals on my bike - Shimano clipless road jobbies - have a hex recess set into the end of the thread so they can be dealt with using an allen key or suitable bit fitted to a ratchet. A lot less hit-and-miss than a narrow c-spanner.They are nearly always socket wrenches anyway, and not suited to apprications that can only be done with an open ended spanner. Attachements for the wrench are available (got some to prove it!), and you could always torque using the allen head on the rear of the pedal arm too (if available)
Nick_F said:
The pedals on my bike - Shimano clipless road jobbies - have a hex recess set into the end of the thread so they can be dealt with using an allen key or suitable bit fitted to a ratchet. A lot less hit-and-miss than a narrow c-spanner.
Ditto with my XC pedals. I spent ages trying to work out where the spanner went on them the first time 
Thanks for the advice all.
re: Costs of torque wrench.
I think I was shown an inappropriate product in Halfords (I went there looking for a budget item), at first the assistant did not know what a torque wrench was (worrying as he was from the bike section!), but with the help of other assistants I was directed to a suitcase sized socket set & torque wrench (in the car section). I think it was about £170 or so? I was assured this was what I needed (even though 5 mins previously he had never heard of a torque wrench) - I was not convinced, and put off by the cost - so left confused.
I'm sure it can be done cheaper than this, I've been advised since - £50 or £60 notes new (still ouch!). but I am no expert. Sorry I can't be of more help.
re: Costs of torque wrench.
I think I was shown an inappropriate product in Halfords (I went there looking for a budget item), at first the assistant did not know what a torque wrench was (worrying as he was from the bike section!), but with the help of other assistants I was directed to a suitcase sized socket set & torque wrench (in the car section). I think it was about £170 or so? I was assured this was what I needed (even though 5 mins previously he had never heard of a torque wrench) - I was not convinced, and put off by the cost - so left confused.
I'm sure it can be done cheaper than this, I've been advised since - £50 or £60 notes new (still ouch!). but I am no expert. Sorry I can't be of more help.
Depends on the wrench and what amount of torque you need to apply - wrenches to deal with bike sized quantities of torque can be around £20 if you go with Draper or the likes...I don't know how you'd go about getting a torque wrench onto a pedal anyway
I only use one on forks and bleed nipples, everything else you can "feel" (IMHO)
I only use one on forks and bleed nipples, everything else you can "feel" (IMHO)
Edited by Beyond Rational on Saturday 21st July 01:46
Beyond Rational said:
Depends on the wrench and what amount of torque you need to apply - wrenches to deal with bike sized quantities of torque can be around £20 if you go with Draper or the likes...I don't know how you'd go about getting a torque wrench onto a pedal anyway
I only use one on forks and bleed nipples, everything else you can "feel" (IMHO)
Scroll up for comments on torquing with the allen recess on the end of the spindle.I only use one on forks and bleed nipples, everything else you can "feel" (IMHO)
Edited by Beyond Rational on Saturday 21st July 01:46
You torque bleed nipples? These sould only ever be nipped up. There are v v delicate and easily break off if over tightened ..... then are a complete bitch to get out!!
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