ISIS crank bolts

Author
Discussion

Buzz word

Original Poster:

2,028 posts

216 months

Monday 4th June 2007
quotequote all
I had a Raceface DH Evolve crank and a FSA platinum BB. But the crank fell off one day whilst riding and cracnk bolts were becoming loose all the time. A mate who rides alot from the pub suggested sticking with like manufacturers so i switched to a Raceface Freeride BB. The othe day whilst out riding I heard a chink on the tarmac, looked round to see a crank bolt lying in the middle of the road. By the time I got home the crank had moved about 3 mm out and a bit of the spline was visable.
I had some spare bolts at home so decided to ignore the instructions sugestion about a dab of grease. I cleaned the internal thread with some meths and slapped some loctite on. Is this likely to solve the problem or is there a better solution? I'm finding it is now starting to take the fun out of things when I'm loosing parts of my crank every 3-4 rides as im always worrying about completing the ride.

snotrag

14,925 posts

218 months

Monday 4th June 2007
quotequote all
I've ridden ISIS cranks for ages on many bikes - Best bet is to make sure all surfaces are super clean, tiny dab of grease on splines, and threadlock on the (clean) crank bolt. tighten it up as tight as itll go with a long allen key, and leave for 24 hrs before riding.

If it does drop out, you shouldnt continure riding without it as you'll fubar your crank.
Always carry an 8mm allen key with you.

Beyond Rational

3,527 posts

222 months

Monday 4th June 2007
quotequote all
It may already be fubar'd from the wear caused by the poor interface, but you have nothing to lose.

Buzz word

Original Poster:

2,028 posts

216 months

Monday 4th June 2007
quotequote all
Cheers guys, it looks like i have done all I can then by cleaning the threads and loctiting the bolts in place. I hope the crank isn't worn but I guess only time will tell. My square taper worked for years and all this has bought is endless issues. If it doesn't pan out I think I will be going back to square taper as I just can't justify a £100+ without fitting external job.

pistol pete

804 posts

270 months

Monday 4th June 2007
quotequote all
Did you use a torque wrench when you fitted them? Most cranks are soft ali and you can damage the spline/taper very easily by overtightening.

Pete

pdV6

16,442 posts

268 months

Monday 4th June 2007
quotequote all
Buzz word said:
I just can't justify a £100+ without fitting external job.
£50 for a set of LX Hollowtech II cranks from Wiggle.

{edited to add:} They're £58 actually, now that the special offer has ended.

Edited by pdV6 on Monday 4th June 15:01

neil_bolton

17,113 posts

271 months

Monday 4th June 2007
quotequote all
pdV6 said:
Buzz word said:
I just can't justify a £100+ without fitting external job.
£50 for a set of LX Hollowtech II cranks from Wiggle.

{edited to add:} They're £58 actually, now that the special offer has ended.

Edited by pdV6 on Monday 4th June 15:01
Awesome cranks - and well worth the upgrade. Make sure your LBS fits them as the BB shell needs facing.

Even if you buy the tool for fitting yourself and don't face the cranks you are only looking at £10...

Buzz word

Original Poster:

2,028 posts

216 months

Monday 4th June 2007
quotequote all
yep, torque wrench to fit. So that should have been ok.

The LX crank is quite a good price. The local shop who can do facing wanted silly money to fit the crank or over the odds to pay for it from them. Also i have none of the tools for that job and i really dislike having other people do things if i know i can do them.
I think i was looking into Hone at the time and it was going to cost something like £140 on the bike. Facing is the only thing stopping me from taking that route.