Converting to tubeless / UST

Converting to tubeless / UST

Author
Discussion

Roman

Original Poster:

2,032 posts

226 months

Thursday 17th May 2007
quotequote all
Has anybody converted to UST / tubeless?

I have a Trek 8000 which runs on Bontrager UST rims with the original factory fit Bontrager Jones ACX B tyres (not the tubeless specific ones).

I just wondered if it was worth switching to tubeless and if I could use my current tyres with the supplied valves and buying Bontrager superjuice sealant?

Anybody here switched and noticed a worthwhile benefit - are they faster?

Any weight saving from the lack of innertube seems to be lost as you are still using a valve combined with sealing liquid/gunk and heavier UST specific tyres, or am I just being a luddite?!

pdV6

16,442 posts

268 months

Thursday 17th May 2007
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Very good article on the subject in the current issue of MBR.

Roman

Original Poster:

2,032 posts

226 months

Friday 18th May 2007
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Thanks

I've just read that. Sounds like not many here have switched to ust at this stage.

wildcards

4,061 posts

224 months

Friday 18th May 2007
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I ran Tubeless for a while, then 3 punctures in as many days in Wales and the hassle of fixing it at the side of the trail made me start using tubes again. Until recently tubeless tyres were an absolute PITA to get on and off because the beading was just too tough to push over the rim, but I did have to fit a new Hutchinson UST tyre a few weeks ago and it went on really easily, did it in minutes with my hands.

I may start using them again when I need new tyres.

neil_bolton

17,113 posts

271 months

Friday 18th May 2007
quotequote all
I have UST compatible rims, and some Bonty tubeless tyres, but it seems the previous owner had got fed up, and had used tubes.

To be honest, being a simpleton, I prefer good old tubes - you only need to carry a couple of spare and you usually know you can get home. Now as far as I am aware, although tubeless carries less of a risk of puncturing, the risk if you DO get a flat is harder to fix.

So, even though I would like to try tubeless on my UST rims as it should be done, I'm not so sure.

I'm not wholley convinced by the weight savings either...

EIther way, all I can say is this: If you have UST rims, fitting beaded tyres is a c***.

snotrag

14,924 posts

218 months

Friday 18th May 2007
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There is benefits, but to be honest I think theres a greater benefit on a DH bike than an XC bike.

Theres the weight loss, but tubeless also allowss you to run super low pressure without pinching - thus useful for DH, not so for XC. and of course, if you puncture in DH, your screwed anyway.

mk1fan

10,647 posts

232 months

Friday 18th May 2007
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If my understanding is correct - I am thinking about doing this in the near future - you can convert most wheels and tyres to run tubeless.

You'll need a sealing solution to seal the sidewalls of the tyre and rim tape with integral valve.

With regards to pressure you generally have to run slighlty higher pressures without tubes to compensate for the additional support given by the inner tube to get the same response from the tyre with an inner tube (ie: if you were running 35psi with tubes, you'd run 38psi without tubes to get the same ride quality / grip) This does make sense when you think about why you run the pressures you do.

Proper tubeless tyres are heavier than regular tyres but still lighter than a tyre/tube combo. They also need less sealant.


Edited by mk1fan on Friday 18th May 14:49

Parrot of Doom

23,075 posts

241 months

Friday 18th May 2007
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Argh. Years ago I had tubeless tyres on my racing bike. Never again. They were always a PITA to install, remove, and maintain.

mk1fan

10,647 posts

232 months

Friday 18th May 2007
quotequote all
Different system on the road bikes.

pawsmcgraw

957 posts

265 months

Sunday 20th May 2007
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i run tubeless on my xc race bike.I use ZTR rims, sealing tape, tubeless valves and NON tubeless tyres.For smooth races i run Schwalbe fast freds.They seat as a normal tyre does, without too much pressure, then remove the valve and inject the usual cup full of stans gloop in.When you blow them up for the first time they will go down after 24hrs, but after the third or fourth day they stay up for good.You just have to keep rolling the gloop around inside to make them seal.If you get a puncture its easy to stick a tube in not needing huge pressure to seat them on the rim.They work great for me, and they weigh under 400g with the gloop and tyre which makes for great speed and a real lightweight feel.


Edited by pawsmcgraw on Sunday 20th May 04:10

mat205125

17,790 posts

220 months

Monday 21st May 2007
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I don't bother fixing tubes on the trail, just whip in a new one and repair the damaged one back at home.

For me the benifits (debatable really) of tubeless doesn't offset the hassles and faffing about to get it to work properly.

Maybe once the technology becomes wider spread I'll change, just not now.

pdV6

16,442 posts

268 months

Monday 21st May 2007
quotequote all
mat205125 said:
I don't bother fixing tubes on the trail, just whip in a new one and repair the damaged one back at home.

For me the benifits (debatable really) of tubeless doesn't offset the hassles and faffing about to get it to work properly.

Maybe once the technology becomes wider spread I'll change, just not now.

^^ What he said, apart from the bit about repairing the damaged one at home (I used to, but just can't be bothered any more).

Always carry some Park glueless patches for the 2nd and subsequent flats though...