Converting to discs
Discussion
I am looking at converting my MTB to run hydraulic discs (after a rather destroying a set of V brakes in one ride last week).
The front is easiest as I an already thinking of getting new forks.
Has anyone ever used a 'Disc Brake Frame Adaptor'
Something like this:
or this:
Are they worth having?
Or should I stick with the V's?
The front is easiest as I an already thinking of getting new forks.
Has anyone ever used a 'Disc Brake Frame Adaptor'
Something like this:
or this:
Are they worth having?
Or should I stick with the V's?
Its something I would be interested in the answer to...
However, try just the front first - most of the braking comes from the front wheel anyway. I've stuck a disc on the front of my bike and am running V's on the rear and am quite happy with the performance for general trail riding.
However, try just the front first - most of the braking comes from the front wheel anyway. I've stuck a disc on the front of my bike and am running V's on the rear and am quite happy with the performance for general trail riding.
stuart_forrest said:
pdV6 said:
most of the braking comes from the front wheel anyway
Then you're a braver man than me. I'd have gone arse over handlebars several times if I did most braking with the front.
Erm, he right. The majority of braking power does come from the front. If you go arse over tit then your doing something else wrong!
Front disc and rear V was very common when disc brakes were still megabucks. I'd give that a go.
black5 said:
Something like this:
I used to run one of these on a zaskar long long ago (a mid-90's frame IIRC).
To be honest it used to flex loads and rub on the disc. Had to run a special long QR to which didn't tighten very well.
I would go for front disk rear good V -or, can you still get magura hydralic rim brakes -one of them with a brake booster as it'll flex the frame (had one of them on the back of a proflex of similar age.
Pete
You have a couple of options:
1. Have a disc front and V rear (cheapest and easiest).
2. Have disc front and Hydraulic rim rear (more expensive).
3. Try and fit an adaptor to the rear and run dics all round (the adaptors don't really work effectively and you get a lot of flex). The A2Z one you showed needs a very lager and flat drop-out to fit (more expensive again).
4. Get an IS mount fitted to the frame. Easy on a steel bike but harder to find someone willing to do it on an ali frame. Will also mean a respray.
My advice would be to go with option 1. If you can easily lock the rear wheel up using V brakes then you have all the power you need at the back. If you are desperate for discs and simply have to have them then spend the money on a new disc ready frame.
Incidently, I've gone through a set of dics pads in one ride before.
1. Have a disc front and V rear (cheapest and easiest).
2. Have disc front and Hydraulic rim rear (more expensive).
3. Try and fit an adaptor to the rear and run dics all round (the adaptors don't really work effectively and you get a lot of flex). The A2Z one you showed needs a very lager and flat drop-out to fit (more expensive again).
4. Get an IS mount fitted to the frame. Easy on a steel bike but harder to find someone willing to do it on an ali frame. Will also mean a respray.
My advice would be to go with option 1. If you can easily lock the rear wheel up using V brakes then you have all the power you need at the back. If you are desperate for discs and simply have to have them then spend the money on a new disc ready frame.
Incidently, I've gone through a set of dics pads in one ride before.
Edited by mk1fan on Wednesday 16th May 13:34
Muddy conditions can eat a resin set in under an hour 
If you are going to run a disc up front and V rear then, from an asthetics point of view, you could go for a cable disc up front that retains your existing V brake lever. That way the levers match.
I'd recomend the Avid BB7 (185mm size). They are the best performing cable disc and put a lot of hydraulic systems to shame.
Wiggle and Chain Reaction have always got them for a good price.
I'd recomend the Avid BB7 (185mm size). They are the best performing cable disc and put a lot of hydraulic systems to shame.
Wiggle and Chain Reaction have always got them for a good price.
snotrag said:
They do work, but its not ideal. You will find that its very difficult to get the brake aligned and rigid enough to work properly.
The dropout needs to be of a certain shape aswell, large, flat alloy plate type dropouts work best.
What frame is it?
The dropout needs to be of a certain shape aswell, large, flat alloy plate type dropouts work best.
What frame is it?
It's a Cannondale Delta V.
I have looked at upgrading the bike, but I can't find anything as light (frame) as mine for less than £1k.
A mate has a top end Scott. He though his bike was quite light 'til he tried mine!
The dropout is large & flat. I'll try to post a pic tonight (after I've been out for a ride, with my new brake blocks).
I use a A2Z adapter on my 2005 Kona, its taken alot of pissing around to get it to work well, no its sorted it works a treat.
The thing you will find is you have to keep taken your axle out to get the rear wheel off, and when you put it back on the disc is out of line again.
So my advice is to stick with a rear V and get it working well. The only down side of a V is when it get clogged up, but still are very good.
Or do what i'm doing and get a new frame, look on Chainreactioncycles.com they have some really good deals on frames.
If i knew what i know now i would have stuck with the rear V.
The thing you will find is you have to keep taken your axle out to get the rear wheel off, and when you put it back on the disc is out of line again.
So my advice is to stick with a rear V and get it working well. The only down side of a V is when it get clogged up, but still are very good.
Or do what i'm doing and get a new frame, look on Chainreactioncycles.com they have some really good deals on frames.
If i knew what i know now i would have stuck with the rear V.
drewcole81 said:
I use a A2Z adapter on my 2005 Kona, its taken alot of pissing around to get it to work well, no its sorted it works a treat.
The thing you will find is you have to keep taken your axle out to get the rear wheel off, and when you put it back on the disc is out of line again.
So my advice is to stick with a rear V and get it working well. The only down side of a V is when it get clogged up, but still are very good.
Or do what i'm doing and get a new frame, look on Chainreactioncycles.com they have some really good deals on frames.
If i knew what i know now i would have stuck with the rear V.
The thing you will find is you have to keep taken your axle out to get the rear wheel off, and when you put it back on the disc is out of line again.
So my advice is to stick with a rear V and get it working well. The only down side of a V is when it get clogged up, but still are very good.
Or do what i'm doing and get a new frame, look on Chainreactioncycles.com they have some really good deals on frames.
If i knew what i know now i would have stuck with the rear V.
Same experience here really. May aswell stay with v's.
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