Disc Brakes.........

Author
Discussion

catso

Original Poster:

14,834 posts

272 months

Saturday 30th December 2006
quotequote all
I'm looking at fitting Disc Brakes to my Specialized Hardrock (2007), currently fitted with V-Brakes.

Firstly is this an easy upgrade?, there are what I assume are caliper mounting points on forks and rear but I don't know if the wheels are compatible with discs?

Any recommendations on type, ideas on price, where to get a good deal etc. I would want Hydraulic as, if I'm going to the trouble of upgrading then I want the best power/feel etc for the money and my son has a bike with cable operated front disc that is no better (& probably worse?) than my V brakes.

Whilst I've been riding bikes all my life, this is the first time I've looked at seriously upgrading specific components so I'm a bit of a 'noob' regarding bicycle modifying, although I've been at it for years with Motorbikes so understand the principles and would think that the technology is 'transferable'.

Thanks in advance for any help.

beer

8portchris

35 posts

251 months

Saturday 30th December 2006
quotequote all
When i upgraded , i bought a brake kit with wheels from www.merlincycles.co.uk/
Good service , no problems, and very easy to fit.
Best to shop around though, you might find something in the sales elsewhere.

Chris

rico

7,916 posts

260 months

Saturday 30th December 2006
quotequote all
I personally use Shimano Deore discs on my XC bike. They use the same system as XT/Saint but just a big heavier and bit chunkier. They're also SHED loads cheaper. Some people prefer Hope, others Formula... but Shimano are fit and forget imo. I was always bleeding bloody Hope brakes hehe

You can check if your wheels are suitable easily... do they have 6 bolt holes on one side? This is where you bolt on the disc. Like this:



If not... you'll have to buy new wheels.

Once the wheels are done, disc brakes do just bolt on. Cable tie the tubes to the frame/fork and jobs done. The hassle will come if the brake hoses are too long or too short for your frame. You might need to use spacers to align the brake calliper perfectly on the disc. Again its easily a DIY job but its best if you have someone to show you or do it for you

Easy but pricey option - get a bike shop to fit. If you buy brakes (and wheels?) from them then they 'should' fit them for free.


Edited by rico on Saturday 30th December 17:46

neil_cardiff

17,113 posts

269 months

Saturday 30th December 2006
quotequote all
Hayes, Hayes, Hayes for me - I run the Nines on all my bikes, you can get em' for £100 off ebay inc discs and levers, and they are a piece of piss to fit.

The bleeding kit is £13 on t' web and to be honest, once you've got your cables the right length, you'll probably never touch them again save to fit pads.

Discs are very much a personal thing in terms of feel, but having had Hopes and not liking the feel since they moved away from closed system, I very much like my Hayes - very beefy, and VERY modulatable (if thats a word...).

Not sure how the Shimanos go, but I've only heard good things about them, and I really, REALLY want some XTR calipers lick hehe

Hope that helps confuse you further? hehe

Sharief

6,396 posts

221 months

Saturday 30th December 2006
quotequote all
rico said:

You can check if your wheels are suitable easily... do they have 6 bolt holes on one side? This is where you bolt on the disc. Like this:



If not... you'll have to buy new wheels.



Edited by rico on Saturday 30th December 17:46
Or just new hubs, if it has decent rims and spokes.

I would steer clear of Hopes - massively over-rated IMO. I have Shimano XTs, and all my riding buddies and everyone I know sats they are the best brakes they've ever used. I've had them over a year and they haven't even needed to be bled!

rico

7,916 posts

260 months

Saturday 30th December 2006
quotequote all
Sharief said:
Or just new hubs, if it has decent rims and spokes.


Very true... assuming the hub width is identical to the old ones... thus the same spoke length. For the hassle in changing it over its often worth buying new spokes (or whole wheel, some real bargains out there!)

catso

Original Poster:

14,834 posts

272 months

Saturday 30th December 2006
quotequote all
rico said:

You can check if your wheels are suitable easily... do they have 6 bolt holes on one side? This is where you bolt on the disc. Like this:



If not... you'll have to buy new wheels.



OK problem No 1; the wheels have no disc mounting holes, I don't know how 'good' the wheels are, but they and the spokes are in as new condition - says on them 'al-exrims' they appear to be a combination of aluminium/plastic? and seem very light (at least compared to my old bike).

Is it worth just changing hubs?, if so I'm guessing that it is a specialist job? seems like this might get expensive......

beer

Justin S

3,653 posts

266 months

Saturday 30th December 2006
quotequote all
If you want the expense of disc braakes,which this time of year are a brilliant upgrade,make sure your frame has disc mounts on it.Most frames with disc mounts come with disc hubs.If it does have mounts on the frame,then you have choices of buying a wheel and disc kits from Merlin cycles or Chain Reaction etc or maybe selling the bike and getting the kit on the bike from new.A disc and wheel kit will start at about £200 for cheap Hydraulics and wheels upto £600 for the upper end,although it could go higher.

Sharief

6,396 posts

221 months

Saturday 30th December 2006
quotequote all
rico said:
Sharief said:
Or just new hubs, if it has decent rims and spokes.


Very true... assuming the hub width is identical to the old ones... thus the same spoke length. For the hassle in changing it over its often worth buying new spokes (or whole wheel, some real bargains out there!)
Yup!

moleamol

15,887 posts

268 months

Sunday 31st December 2006
quotequote all
I run Hope M4s on the DH bike and Hope Closed 2 (old school discs) on the play bike. I would never use any disc brakes other than Hope. They may be expensive but they are absolutely brilliant and you can order any single part that goes wrong, right down to a single seal, along with excellent advice straight from the factory. The others are ok as well but personally I will never stray from Hope, for discs or hubs.

catso

Original Poster:

14,834 posts

272 months

Sunday 31st December 2006
quotequote all
Justin S said:
make sure your frame has disc mounts on it.Most frames with disc mounts come with disc hubs.


I'm pretty certain that the frame has Disc mounts, here are some pics of what I assume are mounting points;

Front;



Rear;



Bike;



I may just try the front first as that's where the greater need for better braking is but ultimately I'd like to do both.

beer



gazzab

21,181 posts

287 months

Sunday 31st December 2006
quotequote all
Sell your bike on ebay for a good price (you'd be suprised how much people will pay!!) Then buy a last yr model with disc brakes!!!!

Roman

2,032 posts

224 months

Monday 1st January 2007
quotequote all
gazzab said:
Sell your bike on ebay for a good price (you'd be suprised how much people will pay!!) Then buy a last yr model with disc brakes!!!!


Seconded!

gazzab

21,181 posts

287 months

Monday 1st January 2007
quotequote all
A cheap starter bike with disc brakes:-
www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=60153

Personally I would go for something with better suspension, frame, gears, wheels etc..
unless you want to just pootle around.

rameshuk

591 posts

267 months

Monday 1st January 2007
quotequote all
Hi Catso,

Hydraulic disc brakes are a great upgrade. You have to look at what type of rider you are and where you ride.
My friends and I have the following on our bikes:

Hayes Sole (OEM only - came with my 2006 Kona and I'm very happy with them )
Hayes HFX-9 - very popular as fitted on many bikes.

Hope Mono Mini (2 pistons), M4 (4 pistons), Mono 6ti(yep - 6 pistons) - fitted on my friend's custom built bikes. Great stopping power and adjustability.

More pistons = greater stopping power which also means greater weight.

**Performance**
If your going downhill at 30+mph then you need more stopping power. If your a commuter in the city, with weekends in the woods then go for something with fewer pistons. Some people even go for a stronger brake up front, since your front brake

**Wheels**
With normal caliper brakes your pads are pressing into the rim.
If you've gone to the expensive of having a set of wheels built, then you would naturally opt for disc brakes.
The pads only press into the discs - which are easy and cheap to replace.

**Rotors**
Rotors are availble in different diameters. The larger sized equals more power.
Vented rotors - these reduce heat and allows more air to cool the surface.

**Hoses and Fluid **
Most disc systems use 3 dot or 4 dot brake fluid .
This is corrosive and can damage paintwork, but thankfully you will only encounter it when servicing your brake system.
Braided hoses are also available, this offer a performance improvement.

There are also a few performance upgrades available ,

Goodridge supplies racing teams and have a mountain bike product line availble:
www.goodridge.net/uk/index.htm

**Brake Pads **
These can also be upgraded for better durability and performance.

Generally, pads which last longer offer less stopping power. These are suitable for cross country/commuting.
The performance pads, tolerate higher temperatures but do not last long. These are favoured by downhill racers.


R.

mat205125

17,790 posts

218 months

Tuesday 2nd January 2007
quotequote all
Roman said:
gazzab said:
Sell your bike on ebay for a good price (you'd be suprised how much people will pay!!) Then buy a last yr model with disc brakes!!!!


Seconded!


Have to agree also.

Why are discs so important? For the amount that you are looking to shell out, a new bike would be a better option. Priority should be frame then fork quality.

rico

7,916 posts

260 months

Tuesday 2nd January 2007
quotequote all
Discs are essential in mud. V-Brakes become useless very quickly.

snotrag

14,821 posts

216 months

Wednesday 3rd January 2007
quotequote all
I've used many systems over the years...

Hope - Look great, poor quality control very TVR if you like. Easy to get spares etc. A very cheap set of old hope c2's or enduro's off ebay might be a good first try - although watch out to get the correct calipers, as hope use many different calipers rather than simple mounting brackets. Best buy if your feeling lucky and are bothered about the British thing.

Hayes - Unbreakable. Sturdy as shit, very agricultural. Big power, but heavy and clumsy to use. Mags are the ones to go for. Large Master cylinder and lever can induce arm pump if you have small hands. Best buy if your a heffer.

Avid Juicies. Great, piss easy to bleed, little expensive but very popular and vogue right now. 7's are awesome with bite point adjustment.

Shimano - what I now have on my bikes. 205mm Saints on the DH rig, LX on the XC - Mineral oil, no nasty fluids to cock up your lungs/paint. Piss easy to bleed again. Lots of rotor options. LX / Deore models are an absolute bargain. Lovely shaped levers. The Saints are as powerful as my Hayes Mags were, with more feel and finesse.

Saints, XT, and XTR use a more expensive one piece caliper and dont suffer fade at all.

gazzab

21,181 posts

287 months

Wednesday 3rd January 2007
quotequote all
I got Avid Juicy 5's and they are great.

rico

7,916 posts

260 months

Wednesday 3rd January 2007
quotequote all
Another good make is the Formula Oro K24... fab brake.

But I'll keep to Shimano Deores... absolute bargain and brilliant brakes.