Taking my MTB apart & rebuilding it.. advice please

[MTY4000]

Hi,

I need to take my bike (2006 Stumpjumper hardtail) apart so that I can take it on holiday, and would appreciate some advide:

I will be taking a weeks holiday in Scotland (Cairngorms & Fort William), mountain biking. I'm going to drive up from London in my car, a TVR Tamora. The bike will be in the 'small' boot, to get the bike in the boot, I will need to:

1) take off the seatpost & seat (easy - quick release)
2) take off the wheels (easy - quick release) - I'll carry these in the car (inside wheel bags)
3) take off the pedals (Crankbrothers Candy SL)
4) take off the fork (Fox 90RL, with aheadset style headset / stem)

I've done 1-2 many times, but 3) and 4) - never.

I have a book that explains the basics, and my bike shop tells me it is all doable with a set of allen keys (which I have) and suggested zip tieing the ahead set bits together and sealing them in bags to transport up.

Any advice or difficulties you think I should be aware of? I'm somewhat concerned about (4), as I don't want to get to scotland and find I can't get the bike back together, or end up damaging the bike.

Thanks,
Ian

Edited by MTY4000 on Tuesday 22 August 12:14

Edited by MTY4000 on Tuesday 22 August 12:14

Edited by MTY4000 on Tuesday 22 August 12:15

[Parrot of Doom]

I'd try not to remove the fork. Its a bit of a messy job. If you put it back together and don't get it quite right, you'll end up with either handlebars that vibrate/rattle slightly, or a cracked bearing.

Try loosening the handlebars from the handlebar stem, and removing them that way. Leave the stem attached to the forks. Much easier I would think, although you'll also have to remove one of the brake levers (easy).

The pedals are easy, just remember they unscrew toward the front wheel on both sides (IIRC!!!) If they're tight, try using a ring spanner to hold the allen key, to give you more leverage. Some pedals (my road bike has them) can be removed with a spanner, although you need one thats quite thin.

[rico]

Has anyone tried one of those courier services for holiday baggage? They FedEx your baggage to your hotel. Would have thought this would work very well for someone in your situation. Might cost a few quid, but you can enjoy the drive up.

[MTY4000]

Thanks for the advice - very much appreciated.

I feared as much with the fork. The problem is, I'm 99% certain that the bike will not fit in the boot with the forks attached - unless my spatial reasoning is wrong. Hmmm, maybee I'll be catching the train up :-(

I'll try it over the weekend with the fork on, but pedals and handlebar off (its easy to take the bar off as there are 4 alen bolts that hold on a front plate - so easy to do without removing any of the shifters and brake levers).

Ian

[MTY4000]

Hi rico, thanks - I'll look into it.

Much appreciated, if I have success I'll update this thread should it be useful to someone else too.

Ian

[rico]

www.luggagefree.com/ this is one of the companies I'm referring to.

Another - www.firstluggage.com/index.aspx

Edited by rico on Tuesday 22 August 12:59

[Parrot of Doom]

You could always buy a fork pump, and release the air from the forks. Will give you a bit more room.

[MTY4000]

Thanks, good advice:

I do have a fork pump - I'll let the air out this evening and see how much space it gives me.

Rico, thanks for the links.

Ian

[pdV6]

MTY4000 said:

I do have a fork pump - I'll let the air out this evening and see how much space it gives me.

It'll be maximum the difference between the top of the sliders and the crown, so you can judge it without letting the air out.

Plus, check your fork's manual to see if there are any issues with letting all the air out of your particular model. I know some rear air shocks have dire warnings not to do this, so some forks might be similar.

[MTY4000]

Thanks - I've downloaded the manual from Fox's website - I'll read it on the way home tonight and check if I'm OK to deflate the fork.

With Fork deflated and bars off, this will certainly free up a fair bit of room to manover the bike and see if I can fit it in the boot.

I will be very happy if it does as this will open up a lot of flexibility for two of my favorate activities: driving and biking.

Ian

[vrooom]

You can take apart the fork off. its simple. but when u put it back, make sure you tighten it enough so it wont rattles, make sure u put the bearings (bearings in cage they wont fell off) in bag. they are BIT messy job.

Jay

[Locoblade]

Agreed, the fork isnt a big job to take off, all you need is the right sized allen key. Just make sure you don't lose any of the headset bearings, remember which order any shims etc go in and take some grease with you to assemble it with again and you should be fine. Also bear in mind that unless you detach all your cables/hydraulic hoses etc, the handlebars will have to be stowed near the frame, as might the fork if you have hydraulic brakes and don't want to remove the caliper.

[lord summerisle]

just a point on removing forks -

It is easy - but you need to do things in the right order, plus remember tho the forks and handlebars will be loose - they will be teathered via the brake and and gear cables/hoses.

ok - to remove forks with an Aheadset: undo the bolt on the top cap on the stem (the one thats in line with the steerer tube) and remove cap and bolt, and then loosen the 1 or 2 bolts that clamp the stem onto the steerer. slide off stem and handle bars, and you can now life the frame off the forks - might help to have a second pair of hands to help you hold everything.

When it comes to refitting the bike together - the bolts need to be done in the correct order to stop rattles.

ok - first slide the steerer tube on the forks back through the headtube and ensure its seated right in the aheadset. now slide the stem over the steerer tube - but dont tighten the bolts on the steam just yet

next you need to put the bolt and top cap on - and screw down tightish - now make sure the handlebars and wheel are inline, now tighten the bolts on the steam to lock it in place.

check the tightness of the headset by turning the front wheel 90° to the bike and rocking the bike forward and back with your hand round the top race of hte headset to feel for movement - the headset should be tight enough that theres no rattle or movement - but not too tight that the steering is stiff. remember that any adjustments to the tightness is done with the tightness of the top cap - and before you tighten or loosen this bolt - to undo the steam bolts.

its sounds complicated - but easy in practice

[MTY4000]

Thanks guys, I think I have everything I need now.

I'll give the various options ago.

Ian

[Crippo]

Follow Lord summerisles advice. Honestly it will take you 2 minutes if you work slowly and its really obvious when you do it. Have a good trip.

[greatgranny]

And remember how crap the train would be up to Scotland, that should give you the insentive to fit your bike into the Tamora.