Tubeless repair woes… any tips?

Tubeless repair woes… any tips?

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Discussion

jimmy156

Original Poster:

3,730 posts

199 months

Thursday 26th December 2024
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I went tubeless on my gravel bike around 18 months back and early on got a puncture that wouldn’t seal.

Used one of the muc off “worms” as per the instructions and it lasted about 6months before failing on a ride. Sorted with another (bigger) worm that has lasted around 4 months. Noticed fluid leaking from the worm and hoped it would seal with a bit more air pressure and another ride the next day. But the opposite happened and the worm failed and lost all pressure again.

This time two more road side worm fixes failed before I got home. The one that got me back used the thickest worm + the smallest together.

Is there something else I can try? Is there a way to stop the worm from stick out like this? No matter how far I push it in and how gently I pull it out (oo eer) it always ends like this. Should I be using a narrower worm for better results? I’ve been working on the assumption of bigger = better but this may not be right?



Any help greatly appreciated before I fork out for a new tyre

stephenjk

42 posts

121 months

Thursday 26th December 2024
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You need to patch inside of the tyre with something like this. They normally recommend one like this with glue not self adhesive and you need to clean inside of the tyre by the whole for this to stick.

https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Restrap-Tyre-Boot-Kit_272...

Johno

8,546 posts

294 months

Thursday 26th December 2024
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These I find much better than std boots/patches - cheaper can be found.

https://ride.lezyne.com/products/tubeless-pro-plug...

Also, most ‘worms’ I’ve used are pretty crap compared to dynaplugs.

https://shop.dynaplug.com/products/dynaplug%C2%AE-...

I carry both thick and thin dynaplugs and have always got home. Because they’re tipped, they don’t come out, so you can trim off the excess on the exterior of the tyre, if you buy the dynaplug ‘pill’ a small blade is included. Or do it when you get home.

I’ve got a front GP5000 AS with 2000kms on it with a dynaplug in it from a catastrophic deflation on a 200kms ride, after 45kms. Still going strong.

Edited by Johno on Thursday 26th December 20:01

jimmy156

Original Poster:

3,730 posts

199 months

Friday 27th December 2024
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Thanks both. Some useful options there, the boot / the leyzene plug look like a good option.

The dynaplug is pricey! Think I’ll try one of the others first!


HenryV1415

1,276 posts

232 months

Sunday 29th December 2024
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jimmy156 said:
Thanks both. Some useful options there, the boot / the leyzene plug look like a good option.

The dynaplug is pricey! Think I’ll try one of the others first!
Dynaplug is slightly more expensive because it is by far the best system for tubeless repair. There is a reason that they are constantly out of stock everywhere despite being constantly imported.

You can also try using an Airliner from Vittoria. These will keep the the on the rim and also act as a run flat so you can continue to ride on a fully deflated tyre for upto 30 miles. They are used in a great many Pro tour teams and also by a multitude of Gravel, MTB and enduro Pro’s

frisbee

5,241 posts

122 months

Sunday 29th December 2024
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A tubeless repair set I got from Wiggle a few years ago came with normal worms and a tube of rubber cement which you slavered everything in. I didn't have to take the tyre off and it's made a very robust fix.

rhamnousia5

205 posts

6 months

Tuesday 31st December 2024
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Maybe pointing out the obvious, but the sticky out bits are normal and should just be trimmed down a little. Don’t do it flush to the tyre, but take some of it away. As you ride the rest will squish down anyway and help to make the seal more solid.

Also, are you keeping on top of the sealant in the tyre? It needs refreshing every three months in my experience. Just stick some more in via the valve, don’t mess about taking the tyre off and trying to clean it up, as you might take away the places where it has sealed some punctures without you realising. I also pop a bit of water in the tyre every month, just try to keep the sealant gloopy and try to stop it from drying out inside the tyre.

Barchettaman

6,759 posts

144 months

Tuesday 31st December 2024
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8-speed AliExpress rear mech and shifter
40 tooth narrow wide AilExpress 100 BCD chainring for a 1x10 system
Shift and brake cables
Chains and quick links

I am swapping in the 8-speed drivetrain for my Bosch commuter e bike. 10 speed is pointless on it. The 10 speed stuff will go on an old steel MTB gravel conversion.

GiantEnemyCrab

7,782 posts

215 months

Tuesday 31st December 2024
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The dynaplug worms / bits of bacon are MILES better than the rest.

jamm13dodger

171 posts

48 months

Tuesday 31st December 2024
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I've not had to use it yet, but friends who have, recommended this to me



Edited by jamm13dodger on Tuesday 31st December 15:10

lufbramatt

5,477 posts

146 months

Tuesday 31st December 2024
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Dynaplugs ard the answer. If they don’t work then the wired mushroom type plugs sold for motorbike tyres work really well as a more permanent repair.

jimmy156

Original Poster:

3,730 posts

199 months

Wednesday 1st January
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Thanks all,

I have bought some of the leyzne ones to repair the problematic puncture, and being as I’ve used most of my worms from the muc off kit on this one puncture, it seems like the sensible thing is to replace with dynaplug for roadside/trail side fixes.

Yes I normally trim the ends off, but always seems to be a lot sticking out! There was plenty of sealant in there! Bike got a fresh covering (as did the road) every time the worm let go hehe

Will be replacing all the sealant when I do the mushroom / Lezyne plug!