GP5000 TR issues
Discussion
A few tricks I learnt when I was using tubeless on the road, I’ve since reverted to tubes:
- first install of tyres can be tricky if they come folded. Remove from packaging and hang up with and over size (such as 40mm) inner tube in them inflated to a few psi so they keep a round shape.
- make sure the bead on the rim is completely clear of old sealant.
- if trying to pump up without a compressor or pump with a cylinder, put an inner tube (without air) around the outside of the tyre as you are pumping and pump like mad for a few seconds.
- some tyres need big pressure to get them to pop, spin the wheel to see if it has seated properly. If one bit won’t pop let all the air out and put some soapy water between the tyre and the rim and try again.
Good luck! It wasn’t the setup that put me off, it was the sealant drying to the tyre over 4-6months and needing hours of cleaning to get rid.
- first install of tyres can be tricky if they come folded. Remove from packaging and hang up with and over size (such as 40mm) inner tube in them inflated to a few psi so they keep a round shape.
- make sure the bead on the rim is completely clear of old sealant.
- if trying to pump up without a compressor or pump with a cylinder, put an inner tube (without air) around the outside of the tyre as you are pumping and pump like mad for a few seconds.
- some tyres need big pressure to get them to pop, spin the wheel to see if it has seated properly. If one bit won’t pop let all the air out and put some soapy water between the tyre and the rim and try again.
Good luck! It wasn’t the setup that put me off, it was the sealant drying to the tyre over 4-6months and needing hours of cleaning to get rid.
I can get Hutchinson Fusion5 tyres to seat on my carbon rims with just an ancient track pump but without sealant they will go flat overnight. Seating is part of the rim / tyre lottery though - some you win, some you lose.
Interesting comment above about cleaning off old sealant as that is something I've never bothered doing. I just add around 30ml of fresh sealant every 3 months or so with syringe having taken the valve out.
Interesting comment above about cleaning off old sealant as that is something I've never bothered doing. I just add around 30ml of fresh sealant every 3 months or so with syringe having taken the valve out.
Sounds like an issue with the valve if you can't get air in the tyre. Try removing the valve core to ensure that its not gunked up with sealant.
One thing I do is inflate the tyre with the valve core removed with my 'Tubi booster' ... this gets the tyre mounted on the bead correctly. I then insert sealent and the valve core before inflating with the Tubi booster .... then onto the track pump.
One thing I do is inflate the tyre with the valve core removed with my 'Tubi booster' ... this gets the tyre mounted on the bead correctly. I then insert sealent and the valve core before inflating with the Tubi booster .... then onto the track pump.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
If the valve isn't the issue, losing pressure without sealant is not a problem. Tyre and wheel combo's work differently together ... I have had tyres that don't lose pressure without sealant and tyres that require sealant and immediate 'bouncing and spinning' once inflated to ensure that they seal correctly.CheesecakeRunner said:
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Nothing stopping you running them with tubes. I find it always takes a few days for new tubeless tyres to 'settle' and properly seal. Normally it might mean loosening off and re-tightening the valve whilst ensuring there is a bit of sealant around it, or popping the tyres completely off into the middle of the rim to get a bit of sealant along the bead. Having an air shot or similar definitely helps though!
Edited by addey on Tuesday 11th June 10:45
anonymous said:
[redacted]
You might have to explain that one! Ultimately, they are pretty much the same tyres as the non tubeless ones as far as putting on/off rim etc. (some take a bit more to get off the rim as tight but once off the half the tyre is off the rim so putting new inner tube in is the same as any other tyre.So, not sure what "tiny gap" you are referring to! Just pull tyre off rim using tyre levers etc. as you would any other tyre.
Dracoro said:
anonymous said:
[redacted]
You might have to explain that one! Ultimately, they are pretty much the same tyres as the non tubeless ones as far as putting on/off rim etc. (some take a bit more to get off the rim as tight but once off the half the tyre is off the rim so putting new inner tube in is the same as any other tyre.So, not sure what "tiny gap" you are referring to! Just pull tyre off rim using tyre levers etc. as you would any other tyre.
This thread is not doing anything to convince me to change from inner tubes and clinchers. Put some new Michelin Power cup tyres (28mm) on the BMC the other day with some super light TPU inner tubes off amazon, got to say it felt properly quick and definitely a few less watts needed to keep the pace
CYCLAMI 38g 1/2PCS Ultralight 700C Bike Inner Tube TPU Road
CYCLAMI 38g 1/2PCS Ultralight 700C Bike Inner Tube TPU Road
I did a 100m sportive at the weekend but got a puncture. Tiny sharp object (thorn I think) that took a while to find. Then couldn’t find the part of the tyre that had the puncture so had to swap out with replacement tyre. Cost me about 45m (esp as took a while to find what had punctured it which had to be found else that would just puncture the replacement tyre!!) and obv body had cooled down etc. so took a while to get back up to speed once running. Then due to mini pump, could not get a particular decent pressure so had to take care (go slower 
) to the feed station where mech had track pump and got it up to my normal pressure. I could only then push on again.
Really wished I had tubeless! Especially as that would have easily coped with that small thorn.
Unfortunately tyres (GP5000 but not TR ones) aren’t tubeless types but always planed to get the TR version when they do wear out.
For most cycling, it’s not going to me a major issue adding time to sort a puncture mid-ride, however if doing competitive stuff and/or sportives or going somewhere and want to “guarantee” (within reason of course) no puncture delays then tubeless is the way to go.
Had tubeless on my old bike with no issues. My gravel bike also had tubeless and never had an issue.
) to the feed station where mech had track pump and got it up to my normal pressure. I could only then push on again.Really wished I had tubeless! Especially as that would have easily coped with that small thorn.
Unfortunately tyres (GP5000 but not TR ones) aren’t tubeless types but always planed to get the TR version when they do wear out.
For most cycling, it’s not going to me a major issue adding time to sort a puncture mid-ride, however if doing competitive stuff and/or sportives or going somewhere and want to “guarantee” (within reason of course) no puncture delays then tubeless is the way to go.
Had tubeless on my old bike with no issues. My gravel bike also had tubeless and never had an issue.
oddball1313 said:
This thread is not doing anything to convince me to change from inner tubes and clinchers. Put some new Michelin Power cup tyres (28mm) on the BMC the other day with some super light TPU inner tubes off amazon, got to say it felt properly quick and definitely a few less watts needed to keep the pace
CYCLAMI 38g 1/2PCS Ultralight 700C Bike Inner Tube TPU Road
Hopefully you will be OK, however I bought some of those tubes and had to sen back. Both tubes were OK for one ride, then a few days later flat. Then pumped up but went down again. No puncture but found that air was simply coming out of valve (core wasn’t loose or anything) so faulty. IMO cheap crap. I have a decent make TPU spare now for saddle bag.CYCLAMI 38g 1/2PCS Ultralight 700C Bike Inner Tube TPU Road
See my other post, definitely going tubeless in the future….
Dracoro said:
Hopefully you will be OK, however I bought some of those tubes and had to sen back. Both tubes were OK for one ride, then a few days later flat. Then pumped up but went down again. No puncture but found that air was simply coming out of valve (core wasn’t loose or anything) so faulty. IMO cheap crap. I have a decent make TPU spare now for saddle bag.
See my other post, definitely going tubeless in the future….
Fingers crossed - tyre pressure is fine since sundays ride so hopefully a good batch. RAFA 100 on sunday starting from Kendrew barracks in Rutland (only 2.5 miles from home) so hopefully they’ll be ok but got a couple of spares in the bag just in case. If they become a nightmre i’ll go back to tried and trusted continental butayl tubes and wait until the tubilito/vittoira ones become sensibly pricedSee my other post, definitely going tubeless in the future….
ecs said:
110 PSI in a tubless tyre is pretty stupid!
EFAIt's also above the max pressure recommendation.
I'm not sure why some random person has some much difficulties doing things, tubeless setup is not that difficult. Put tyre one one side, add some sealant, mount tyre on other side, use CO2 cartridge/Airshot/compressor to get bead to 'snap' into place. Job done.
Trying to get a tubeless tyre to mount and hold pressure without sealant is destined to fail.
If tubeless tyres won’t inflate then the best tip is to wrap another round of rim tape around the rim. This has the effect of enlargening the rim circumference and allows the tyre to sit deflated more tightly so when you start pumping the pressure increases immediately and the tyre starts to hold air, pressure builds and the tyre will then push up onto the shoulders of the rim.
All the other options you have been suggested have some merit but my solution above is foolproof. You may even need an extra 2 wraps of rim tape but it will always work.
All the other options you have been suggested have some merit but my solution above is foolproof. You may even need an extra 2 wraps of rim tape but it will always work.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
I've been between decisions on tubeless for road for a while. I have successfully Dynaplugg'd a few tyres and carried on with a ride ... but sometimes, its a tyre boot and tube time, so I always carry a Pirelli TPU tube just in case. Unfortunately I punctured in race at the weekend after just 20 mins ... a national championship on a course that suited me - all that time and effort down the drain, so I get the levels of frustration with tubeless. 
One issue I've seen on mutiple bikes is the innability to remove the valve due to a ceased valve nut ... when trying to fit a tube if the Dynaplug hasn't sealed for whatever reason.
Yes its messy and can be inconsistant. You've hot the nail on the head tho ... 'when dealing with tyre changes or changes of sealant'. Stick to the same tyre/wheel combo if poss ... the way that tyres mount varies considerably ... some are just not compatible without a signifinant amount of effort, which will be difficult to replicate when caught out in the wild without the correct tools. Also, sealant ... I have found that Mucoff, although smell nice is next to useless ... ouses out from the smallest of punctures ... Stans race fluid seems to work best ... although the hole it faced at the weekend was too big.
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