Gravel bike stability
Discussion
I had a premium bond win and used it to buy a Boardman ADV 8.6 gravel bike to compliment my MTB as I ride a mix of off road and decent private country estate roads/tracks. First time out I came a real cropper going downhill on a footpath as it seems to have very little grip and stability on anything a bit muddy. 2nd time I fell off again, this time simply wet and muddy long grass. One of the issues seems to be the overall stability with the quite narrow handlebars.I was thinking of adding an extension bar to proivide better a wider grips for stability when I have to leave the tarnac/compacted gravel.
Perhaps gravel bikes don't like mud or grass , but would wider handle bars help?
Perhaps gravel bikes don't like mud or grass , but would wider handle bars help?
You will have to modify your riding style to suit, after riding with flat bars forever I got my first drop bar racer last year and take off road riding with a lot more care than before, almost like riding on tiptoes and being gentle when cornering rather than rag the bars hard and rely on whipping the rear to make the turn.
I'm using Hutchison Equinox narrow slicks which doesn't help much but I can cope with most surfaces apart from very deep mud, can get through it by speeding up beforehand and rolling through the mud but if I try and pedal it just spins the rear wheel.
Wet leaves are to be avoided with the slicks though, definitely gets a bit twitchy on them.
I'm using Hutchison Equinox narrow slicks which doesn't help much but I can cope with most surfaces apart from very deep mud, can get through it by speeding up beforehand and rolling through the mud but if I try and pedal it just spins the rear wheel.
Wet leaves are to be avoided with the slicks though, definitely gets a bit twitchy on them.
Edited by dudleybloke on Sunday 18th February 23:15
Cogcog said:
I had a premium bond win and used it to buy a Boardman ADV 8.6 gravel bike to compliment my MTB as I ride a mix of off road and decent private country estate roads/tracks. First time out I came a real cropper going downhill on a footpath as it seems to have very little grip and stability on anything a bit muddy. 2nd time I fell off again, this time simply wet and muddy long grass. One of the issues seems to be the overall stability with the quite narrow handlebars.I was thinking of adding an extension bar to proivide better a wider grips for stability when I have to leave the tarnac/compacted gravel.
Perhaps gravel bikes don't like mud or grass , but would wider handle bars help?
Depends on what bars it has. Perhaps gravel bikes don't like mud or grass , but would wider handle bars help?
Mine has crazy wide flared bars, but if the Boardman comes with effectively road bars, they will be narrow.
As said above, tyres will also play a big part. I have two sets for my gravel big. The road biased tyres are crap off-road except for compacted fire roads and dry gravel. The off road tyres however are tremendous...although slow on road, 'natch.
Get some proper off road tyres
Watch some youtube videos about cyclocross cornering. You want to be getting the outside foot down, weight to the outside and point your hips/belly button towards where you want to go, lean the bike into the corner (straighten your inside arm) and it will go round. Handlebars shouldn't have a massive effect.
Watch some youtube videos about cyclocross cornering. You want to be getting the outside foot down, weight to the outside and point your hips/belly button towards where you want to go, lean the bike into the corner (straighten your inside arm) and it will go round. Handlebars shouldn't have a massive effect.
lufbramatt said:
Get some proper off road tyres
Watch some youtube videos about cyclocross cornering. You want to be getting the outside foot down, weight to the outside and point your hips/belly button towards where you want to go, lean the bike into the corner (straighten your inside arm) and it will go round. Handlebars shouldn't have a massive effect.
It's putting the foot down which i don't want to do. My knee sustained some damage about 7 years ago which I strap up for riding but in the December fall my reluctance to brace the fall with that knee led to a shoulder and head injury. Idiot as I am. Sounds like different tyres would be a good start.Watch some youtube videos about cyclocross cornering. You want to be getting the outside foot down, weight to the outside and point your hips/belly button towards where you want to go, lean the bike into the corner (straighten your inside arm) and it will go round. Handlebars shouldn't have a massive effect.
Tyres and pressures. I used to run Maxxis Ravager for loose/wet/muddy conditions with the pressures at around 30 psi. They are quite draggy though. https://www.maxxis.com/int/tire/ravager/
I've since taken to using my MTB for anything remotely gnarly/muddy and the gravel stays on the hardpack.
I've since taken to using my MTB for anything remotely gnarly/muddy and the gravel stays on the hardpack.
Cogcog said:
lufbramatt said:
Watch some youtube videos about cyclocross cornering. You want to be getting the outside foot down, weight to the outside and point your hips/belly button towards where you want to go, lean the bike into the corner (straighten your inside arm) and it will go round. Handlebars shouldn't have a massive effect.
It's putting the foot down which i don't want to do. My knee sustained some damage about 7 years ago which I strap up for riding but in the December fall my reluctance to brace the fall with that knee led to a shoulder and head injury. Idiot as I am. Sounds like different tyres would be a good start.OutInTheShed said:
lufbramatt said:
Sorry yes keep the outside foot on the pedal but straighten the leg so the pedal is at the bottom of the stroke..
Then your foot can hit the ground really easy... Splatt!
The last MTB course I went on, the body position during cornering has changed and the instructor was trying to have us change our pedal position. The old days of outside pedal being down has gone, pedals should now be level during cornering and your weight is put slightly more fwd to add weight to the front wheel for grip, especially on berms. Trying to change my riding style of 20 years has been a challenge but it has worked. Might be with given it a go?
As for the original stability issues, tyres and pressures! My first CX bike came with some average tyres, I upgrade them to some more extreme knobblies and the difference was great. I have ridden my CX bikes everywhere my full bouncer has been without difficulty, some of the drops have been a challenge but all is good
As for the original stability issues, tyres and pressures! My first CX bike came with some average tyres, I upgrade them to some more extreme knobblies and the difference was great. I have ridden my CX bikes everywhere my full bouncer has been without difficulty, some of the drops have been a challenge but all is good
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