50 : 34 Chainring and general hard work
Discussion
50-34 is a compact chainset for a road bike. 52-36 tends to be 'semi-compact' and 53-39 is standard. Most new road bikes come in compact or semi-compact.
The ultra sport tyres aren't the fastest, not sure about the wheels. I had ultra sport on a new road bike and swapped them for some Conti GP4000 and the difference was night and day in terms of better grip and rolling much faster, so the other wheels and tyres should hopefully make a big difference.
Your cassette at the back will also affect how easy/hard your gears are. If it's, say, 11-25, then on average it will be a lot harder to pedal than the bigger cogs available on an 11-34. You should ideally try to avoid the big front ring / biggest cassette gear combination (and small / small), as this will wear your chain, cassette and chainrings faster than using the middle of the cassette due to the extra load.
The ultra sport tyres aren't the fastest, not sure about the wheels. I had ultra sport on a new road bike and swapped them for some Conti GP4000 and the difference was night and day in terms of better grip and rolling much faster, so the other wheels and tyres should hopefully make a big difference.
Your cassette at the back will also affect how easy/hard your gears are. If it's, say, 11-25, then on average it will be a lot harder to pedal than the bigger cogs available on an 11-34. You should ideally try to avoid the big front ring / biggest cassette gear combination (and small / small), as this will wear your chain, cassette and chainrings faster than using the middle of the cassette due to the extra load.
Tyre size and crank length also matter in the 'pedal force to forward thrust' equation.
Sometimes we old gits should listen to the 'proper cyclists' and get off the big chainring, move those legs faster.
It's instructive to spend some time on a turbo trainer and understand what you best pedalling rate is for various effort durations like say a 5 minute climb.
Sometimes we old gits should listen to the 'proper cyclists' and get off the big chainring, move those legs faster.
It's instructive to spend some time on a turbo trainer and understand what you best pedalling rate is for various effort durations like say a 5 minute climb.
Could be so many things, and most likely not the actual chainring size.
As hinted above, check everything is running freely, hubs, drivetrain, BB etc. You’re now on a compact, if anything should be easier to ride than your previous bike - but you’re saying it’s properly hard, which for me Indicates something mechanical.
Also check your position compared to your old bike, a difference with this could make riding feel harder and account for slowing you down a touch.
Be aware you will be slower in winter months. My speeds always drop due to extra clothing, winter tyres, muck on drivetrain, weather and the lower temps also impact speed.
As hinted above, check everything is running freely, hubs, drivetrain, BB etc. You’re now on a compact, if anything should be easier to ride than your previous bike - but you’re saying it’s properly hard, which for me Indicates something mechanical.
Also check your position compared to your old bike, a difference with this could make riding feel harder and account for slowing you down a touch.
Be aware you will be slower in winter months. My speeds always drop due to extra clothing, winter tyres, muck on drivetrain, weather and the lower temps also impact speed.
Edited by thepritch on Tuesday 30th January 22:50
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Simply remove chain, or lift it to one side off the chainring and spin cranks. They should spin freely in the bb.My wheel needs new bearings as off the bike it spins freely on the hub, but when clamped it seems to have some friction. New wheels or not, I’d check yours.
When you get the new wheels report back. Even though higher end wheels are faster and more responsive I’d not imagine your current ones are really that bad?
I have a 2014 Wilier GTR.
‘Low end carbon’ yes but the geometry is fantastic & it handles really nicely. Not bad weight either.
I upgraded mine over time with some shiny bits & was planning on buying a new frame, but having tried a Look 695 & a Trek Madone with my components I sold both & kept my Wilier.
I just gel with it I suppose.
Probably need a new bike now it’s 10 years old this summer!
‘Low end carbon’ yes but the geometry is fantastic & it handles really nicely. Not bad weight either.
I upgraded mine over time with some shiny bits & was planning on buying a new frame, but having tried a Look 695 & a Trek Madone with my components I sold both & kept my Wilier.
I just gel with it I suppose.
Probably need a new bike now it’s 10 years old this summer!
Watts are watts. Chainring sizes are irrelevant as long as you can find a gear to ride at the cadence appropriate to your self selected norm.
Suspect combo of winter, s
t wheels and tyres, heavier potentially given Christmas, less fit, winter clothing - all of the above. It’s why people use metrics that are a bit more repeatable, like power, because speed is very variable.
Petrol pocket rocket - I see the shameless embellishment hasn’t gone away
Suspect combo of winter, s
t wheels and tyres, heavier potentially given Christmas, less fit, winter clothing - all of the above. It’s why people use metrics that are a bit more repeatable, like power, because speed is very variable. Petrol pocket rocket - I see the shameless embellishment hasn’t gone away
Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff