Tubeless - one last go
Discussion
Went tubeless on my hybrid bike about 7 months ago and it has not been a particularly pleasant experience.
Constantly having to pump tyres up before a ride and on more than a few occasions during the ride as well as the tell tale sealant on the rim has meant it has burped out again. Tyres were initially set up at the bike shop and I have been back a couple of months ago to get them checked out and redone. Annoyingly the tyres can go a couple of weeks with out any issues but can then become problematic again. I use a basic track pump and try to stick to 45-50 psi
My tyres are Hutchinson Override 700x35 which feel a bit flimsy so maybe I should try a different tyre that is a bit more robust? any suggestions?
Constantly having to pump tyres up before a ride and on more than a few occasions during the ride as well as the tell tale sealant on the rim has meant it has burped out again. Tyres were initially set up at the bike shop and I have been back a couple of months ago to get them checked out and redone. Annoyingly the tyres can go a couple of weeks with out any issues but can then become problematic again. I use a basic track pump and try to stick to 45-50 psi
My tyres are Hutchinson Override 700x35 which feel a bit flimsy so maybe I should try a different tyre that is a bit more robust? any suggestions?
Surely the answer is a good sealant? I used to swear by the race version of Stans-
Stan's no tube NTLR Race Tire Sealant 32oz, Black, 946ml https://amzn.eu/d/bdbRTUE
Stan's no tube NTLR Race Tire Sealant 32oz, Black, 946ml https://amzn.eu/d/bdbRTUE
Tyres are rarely the problem in my experience unless punctured. Valves, sealant then tape is what I'd be looking at.
First thing I'd check is that the valves are nipped up tight as that can be done in a few seconds and costs nothing. If you're still losing air then you need to whip the tyres off and see what state your sealant is in, in 7 months it could have dried up. If your sealant is good then you need to look at your tape and make sure there's no tears or creases that could be letting air out.
If you want to be super lazy you could just whip the valve cores out and top the sealant up, bang a load of air in the tyres, spin them up a bit and hope that fixes it.
First thing I'd check is that the valves are nipped up tight as that can be done in a few seconds and costs nothing. If you're still losing air then you need to whip the tyres off and see what state your sealant is in, in 7 months it could have dried up. If your sealant is good then you need to look at your tape and make sure there's no tears or creases that could be letting air out.
If you want to be super lazy you could just whip the valve cores out and top the sealant up, bang a load of air in the tyres, spin them up a bit and hope that fixes it.
Having to pump the tyres up regularly - daily if you want to be precise, as I do - is a downside of tubeless but I use a small Bosch electric pump so no effort whatsoever and just a part of my routine now.
Sealant will last around 4-6 months if you want it to be really effective and then needs a refresh. Buy a Stan's or Park Tool syringe-thingy and it's easy to just inject it via the valve. The next time needs a complete and clean and replace though before an easy top up again.
If you are getting leaks, the tape or valve may not be seated correctly.
When done right, the system is excellent with few downsides and a lot of big pluses. 3 of my bikes are on tubeless and not a single issue with any.
Sealant will last around 4-6 months if you want it to be really effective and then needs a refresh. Buy a Stan's or Park Tool syringe-thingy and it's easy to just inject it via the valve. The next time needs a complete and clean and replace though before an easy top up again.
If you are getting leaks, the tape or valve may not be seated correctly.
When done right, the system is excellent with few downsides and a lot of big pluses. 3 of my bikes are on tubeless and not a single issue with any.
PastelNata said:
Having to pump the tyres up regularly - daily if you want to be precise, as I do - is a downside of tubeless but I use a small Bosch electric pump so no effort whatsoever and just a part of my routine now.
Sealant will last around 4-6 months if you want it to be really effective and then needs a refresh. Buy a Stan's or Park Tool syringe-thingy and it's easy to just inject it via the valve. The next time needs a complete and clean and replace though before an easy top up again.
If you are getting leaks, the tape or valve may not be seated correctly.
When done right, the system is excellent with few downsides and a lot of big pluses. 3 of my bikes are on tubeless and not a single issue with any.
I'm on the same boat, the front tyre just can't hold the pressure now (it was ok before). I got Panaracers on, which are amazing tyres, but whenever I pump it to 40, it starts losing air from the middle of the thread. Then instantly seals as I rotate the wheel. It does it randomly too, some days it holds ok, sometimes if loses pressure within a few hours. Very bizarre.Sealant will last around 4-6 months if you want it to be really effective and then needs a refresh. Buy a Stan's or Park Tool syringe-thingy and it's easy to just inject it via the valve. The next time needs a complete and clean and replace though before an easy top up again.
If you are getting leaks, the tape or valve may not be seated correctly.
When done right, the system is excellent with few downsides and a lot of big pluses. 3 of my bikes are on tubeless and not a single issue with any.
My issue is that I'm going on a month's cycling trip and I don't want to carry an electric pump with me. I'm taking it to the shop today to see what they can do. Most likely they'll try to charge me for a new tyre, but I don't know what else to do.
Set up makes the biggest difference for me. Barring an electric pump, just a good quality track pump makes pumping up easy.
Good tape, clean tyres edges and good sealant.
Last set up I did has changed the game. Barely losing air between rides.
Lower pressure outweighs any other issues for me. It’s definitely a learning curve using tubeless.
Good tape, clean tyres edges and good sealant.
Last set up I did has changed the game. Barely losing air between rides.
Lower pressure outweighs any other issues for me. It’s definitely a learning curve using tubeless.
I use Muc-off No puncture sealant and I have just given it another glug of that and pumped it up again.
Seems to have held after a few hours and a trip to the shops so hopefully this will be ok for awhile.
Tempted to go back to tubes and trusty Marathons though - they could go months without so much as a top up of air.
Seems to have held after a few hours and a trip to the shops so hopefully this will be ok for awhile.
Tempted to go back to tubes and trusty Marathons though - they could go months without so much as a top up of air.
sebdangerfield said:
I’ve been tubeless a while now but I’ve always needed to top up air regularly no matter if I’m on tubes, tubs or tubeless. I’m quite surprised people have tubes they don’t top up.
As above it’s all in the set up. It’s a dark art. My mechanic has got the front perfect slight top up once a month the rear needs redoing as needs topping up every other ride. Annoying but when done right they can be pretty trouble free and no punctures.
lufbramatt said:
When you mount the tyres are you pumping them up to the max psi to get the beads to pop into place? There will be a couple of loud bangs as the beads sit into the groove in the rim, then you can release air to riding pressure.
Apologies if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs....
No, I just pump them up to normal psi with my track pump, never heard any bangs.Apologies if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs....
Never understood the bead seating thing, they look perfectly seated to me - do I need a different pump?
272BHP said:
lufbramatt said:
When you mount the tyres are you pumping them up to the max psi to get the beads to pop into place? There will be a couple of loud bangs as the beads sit into the groove in the rim, then you can release air to riding pressure.
Apologies if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs....
No, I just pump them up to normal psi with my track pump, never heard any bangs.Apologies if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs....
Never understood the bead seating thing, they look perfectly seated to me - do I need a different pump?
Edited by _Hoppers on Monday 26th June 17:09
Edited by _Hoppers on Monday 26th June 17:10
272BHP said:
lufbramatt said:
When you mount the tyres are you pumping them up to the max psi to get the beads to pop into place? There will be a couple of loud bangs as the beads sit into the groove in the rim, then you can release air to riding pressure.
Apologies if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs....
No, I just pump them up to normal psi with my track pump, never heard any bangs.Apologies if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs....
Never understood the bead seating thing, they look perfectly seated to me - do I need a different pump?
272BHP said:
No, I just pump them up to normal psi with my track pump, never heard any bangs.
Never understood the bead seating thing, they look perfectly seated to me - do I need a different pump?
That might be your issue. You need a high volume pump to seat them. I use a separate canister I charge with my track pump. I then remove the valve core to allow maximum air flow then discharge the canister. Never understood the bead seating thing, they look perfectly seated to me - do I need a different pump?
BoRED S2upid said:
sebdangerfield said:
I’ve been tubeless a while now but I’ve always needed to top up air regularly no matter if I’m on tubes, tubs or tubeless. I’m quite surprised people have tubes they don’t top up.
As above it’s all in the set up. It’s a dark art. My mechanic has got the front perfect slight top up once a month the rear needs redoing as needs topping up every other ride. Annoying but when done right they can be pretty trouble free and no punctures.
272BHP said:
Ok I need a better track pump or canister it takes me about 30 pumps to get it to about 50psi so I might need something with a bit more grunt
Definitely. I’ve had limited success with the larger co2 cartridges but only on those tyres and wheels that are at the easier end of the spectrum to seat. I’ve never had an issue on any tyre with my big shot charge canister. This looks like it could be up to the job?
Little expensive but we have 2 tubeless bikes in the house so it will get years of use I am sure.
https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Topeak-Joe-Blow-Booster-T...
Little expensive but we have 2 tubeless bikes in the house so it will get years of use I am sure.
https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Topeak-Joe-Blow-Booster-T...
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