2x10 to 1x11 conversion
Discussion
Recently switched drivetrains on my hard tail and I'm finding that when I'm on the largest cog there seems to be quite a bit of friction from the chain line being at an angle. I'm guessing this will wear the teeth on that cog much quicker and it's probably not as efficient as it could be.
Is there any way to improve this or is it just because the bike was made for a 2x setup (it's a 2013 Scott Scale 710)
Is there any way to improve this or is it just because the bike was made for a 2x setup (it's a 2013 Scott Scale 710)
There's a whole world of complexity about 'chain line'.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html
Basically, you can probably change your bottom bracket or chain rings/crank to move the chain ring across a bit.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html
Basically, you can probably change your bottom bracket or chain rings/crank to move the chain ring across a bit.
If that's a 2x crank, then the ideal centreline for your 1x chainring would be in between where your original 2 chainrings were. So it might be that you need spacers to space the chainring inwards a little.
I did a conversion on my bike from 3x10 to 1x11, and mounted the chainring where the middle ring used to be, as that's already on the correct centreline. However, there's still a noticeable bit of drag in 1st gear, as you're asking a lot from the chain in that gear, and I guess you only have a 'straight' chain in the middle of the cassette. In any case, I can't space my chainring inwards really, because my chain runs quite close to the tyre. It looks like you have more room.
I did a conversion on my bike from 3x10 to 1x11, and mounted the chainring where the middle ring used to be, as that's already on the correct centreline. However, there's still a noticeable bit of drag in 1st gear, as you're asking a lot from the chain in that gear, and I guess you only have a 'straight' chain in the middle of the cassette. In any case, I can't space my chainring inwards really, because my chain runs quite close to the tyre. It looks like you have more room.
No space to go inwards on the cranks, I'm right up against the chain stay here:
Was thinking why my full sus is fine with 12 speed and an even larger sprocket, I'm guessing it's the boost standard making the axles wider and additional length in the chainstay?
Might have to just live with it as it's fine in one gear down and wouldn't be putting much power down in the biggest sprocket, it's just an annoying grating vibration feel and I think those big sprockets are lighter metal so might wear the teeth a lot quicker.
Was thinking why my full sus is fine with 12 speed and an even larger sprocket, I'm guessing it's the boost standard making the axles wider and additional length in the chainstay?
Might have to just live with it as it's fine in one gear down and wouldn't be putting much power down in the biggest sprocket, it's just an annoying grating vibration feel and I think those big sprockets are lighter metal so might wear the teeth a lot quicker.
This is my winter bike so it doesn't see that many big long inclines.
2x10 setup it had was perfect but I was getting sick of the chain dropping on the front when it was all muddy and 1x seemed like less hassle once the old rings and casette wire out.
Maybe I should've just gone with stuck with 1x10 and lost a bit of range either way.
2x10 setup it had was perfect but I was getting sick of the chain dropping on the front when it was all muddy and 1x seemed like less hassle once the old rings and casette wire out.
Maybe I should've just gone with stuck with 1x10 and lost a bit of range either way.
OutInTheShed said:
Byronwww said:
That looks like the chain might be quite tight, either it might be too short, and/or you need a longer derailleur cage to give the range?Did something like this a year or so ago with an old bike. Even though it was a narrow wide front sprocket the chain still came off randomly. Alignment should have been fine as I was using the middle position on the previous 3 by crank but new crank ring teeth were still getting mangled.
Also unless you have a dinner plate on the back you dont really have low enough gears.
Im amazed at some of the rubbish people try to sell with a 1 by conversion with no gear range and call it an mtb.
In the end I reasoned the front mech is a valuable chain containment device and just went with a 2 by on the crank losing the big ring.
Once setup its a simply uncomplicated thing that changes between 2 positions with one press.
Lots of useful gears as well.
I would stick with the 2 x10 if possible but your setup may be more compatible than mine was.
Also unless you have a dinner plate on the back you dont really have low enough gears.
Im amazed at some of the rubbish people try to sell with a 1 by conversion with no gear range and call it an mtb.
In the end I reasoned the front mech is a valuable chain containment device and just went with a 2 by on the crank losing the big ring.
Once setup its a simply uncomplicated thing that changes between 2 positions with one press.
Lots of useful gears as well.
I would stick with the 2 x10 if possible but your setup may be more compatible than mine was.
old'uns said:
Chain 'shouldn't ' drop off with narrow-wide but they do, simple chain guide helps.
Rear derailleur ideally needs to be one with a clutch and the cage/chain length sufficient for the range
Not a great pic but chainline on 1x 10 46t. Straight chain line is straight ish when on centre of cassette
Haven't had any chain drops since going to 1x, on a double when it gets all muddy would always drop the chain shifting though which got annoying trying having to fix in the cold and wet.Rear derailleur ideally needs to be one with a clutch and the cage/chain length sufficient for the range
Not a great pic but chainline on 1x 10 46t. Straight chain line is straight ish when on centre of cassette
Think I've messed up when I changed the chain and gone too short, I'll add another link in once it stops raining for a bit and see if that fixes it.
Fundoreen said:
.
Im amazed at some of the rubbish people try to sell with a 1 by conversion with no gear range and call it an mtb.
Although I haven't seen much in the way of rubbish, I feel that sometimes it's simpler to go all the way with a ground up 1x system for the full experience.Im amazed at some of the rubbish people try to sell with a 1 by conversion with no gear range and call it an mtb.
I built a cheap HT this winter with a NX group and swapped the mech/shifter for SLX. Total net cost £200.
The range is fantastic even with the 11t. It's ultimately comparable to a 3x10 but without the front mech, so it's all benefit really. When well set up friction is surprisingly low what with the narrow chain. The steel SRAM cassette lasts amazingly well too.
Front chainline is 52 and rear 49 so near ideal.
Edited by nickfrog on Monday 20th March 20:04
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