Has anyone ditched tubeless for inner tubes?
Discussion
I've got a pair of Winspace wheels with Maxxis tyres. I can get these on and off without having to use tools, although some people struggle to get tyres by other manufacturers on/off. When I've removed the tyres I've used a C02 cannister seat them back on. I picked up a piece of flint on a ride out, I didn't realise at the time but happened to see a tiny bit of sealant which had leaked out when stopped for cake! I picked it out at home and used a 'worm' to seal the hole. This worked for a few rides but popped out in the wet. I ended up sealing the gash with a patch (I hindsight I should have done this first) and it's been fine since. Was out with a mate and we both picked up some thorns on a cycle track! My tyre stayed up but the cafe we were heading to shut whilst my mate fannied about fixing it (and again on the way back!). Tubleless all the way for me!
Tyre / rim combo is a lottery - I can put Hutchinson Fusion5 tyres on my carbon disc rims with just my thumbs or maybe one tyre lever. I can also get them to seat with just an ancient track pump. However, I know of people who given up on some tyre / rim combos after many failed attempts at home - not a job you want by the side of the road.
For tubeless, I carry a Dynaplug racer should I get a hole that the sealant can't fix on it's own. I've never ripped a tyre (tubed or tubeless) enough that a new tube or Dynaplug hasn't allowed me to carry on riding.
https://road.cc/content/review/265660-dynaplug-rac...
Removing the valve core to add sealant is a doddle IMHO. Deflate the tyre, unscrew the core / valve with one of the little tools linked below, squirt in sealant using a syringe and tube, screw valve back in, inflate and spin the wheel. Might get a bit of dribble but quickly mopped up with some paper towel.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204154211717
For tubeless, I carry a Dynaplug racer should I get a hole that the sealant can't fix on it's own. I've never ripped a tyre (tubed or tubeless) enough that a new tube or Dynaplug hasn't allowed me to carry on riding.
https://road.cc/content/review/265660-dynaplug-rac...
Removing the valve core to add sealant is a doddle IMHO. Deflate the tyre, unscrew the core / valve with one of the little tools linked below, squirt in sealant using a syringe and tube, screw valve back in, inflate and spin the wheel. Might get a bit of dribble but quickly mopped up with some paper towel.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204154211717
anonymous said:
[redacted]
AFAIK you can use Co2 with Muc-off's sealant. I've found it a piece of piss to mount the tyre and add sealant, for me there's nothing to worry about. It is a bit messy when patching the tyre, you'll need to wash out the old sealant but I'd prefer to do that at home than fix a puncture at the roadside.I've ridden tubeless with both my road bikes for over 2 years, I would certainly not got back to tubes at all.
Most punctures seal themselves, if they don't seal whack a tube in like you would any normal puncture. Patch the tyre when you are back home. Putting sealant down the valve core is literally a five minute job.
You have tyres which you can run a lower pressures, with more puncture resistance and less rolling resistance. Seeing as they're already set up for you, I cannot fathom why you would comprehend changing it back to tubes.
Edit: Tubeless tyres aren't any harder than clinchers, it all depends on tyre and rim combo. I had Mavic cosmics an GP5000 clinchers which I simply couldn't get to work together. It works both ways.
To patch a tyre buy a proper patch kit from a bike shop or off amazon, take the tyre off, turn it inside out, clear all the crap out of it, sand it a little, apply the rubber glue and stick down a patch. Whack something heavy like a book on it for an hour and chuck in back on the rim. It's so easy once you've actually done it. It really sounds like you've overthinking problems which you'll either never have or are incredibly easy to deal with.
Most punctures seal themselves, if they don't seal whack a tube in like you would any normal puncture. Patch the tyre when you are back home. Putting sealant down the valve core is literally a five minute job.
You have tyres which you can run a lower pressures, with more puncture resistance and less rolling resistance. Seeing as they're already set up for you, I cannot fathom why you would comprehend changing it back to tubes.
Edit: Tubeless tyres aren't any harder than clinchers, it all depends on tyre and rim combo. I had Mavic cosmics an GP5000 clinchers which I simply couldn't get to work together. It works both ways.
To patch a tyre buy a proper patch kit from a bike shop or off amazon, take the tyre off, turn it inside out, clear all the crap out of it, sand it a little, apply the rubber glue and stick down a patch. Whack something heavy like a book on it for an hour and chuck in back on the rim. It's so easy once you've actually done it. It really sounds like you've overthinking problems which you'll either never have or are incredibly easy to deal with.
Edited by JayRidesBikes on Thursday 16th February 11:16
I've been tubeless on both my road bikes since about 2018. The one time tubeless hasn't worked and sealed a puncture was my fault. I'd not topped up the sealant after my summer bike had spent the winter in hibernation. I didn't even try a tube though - I stuffed a Dynaplug in and pumped it back up. I got home without any problems (about another 140km after fixing it).
https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/t/gp-5000-tl-fit...
JayRidesBikes said:
Edit: Tubeless tyres aren't any harder than clinchers, it all depends on tyre and rim combo. I had Mavic cosmics an GP5000 clinchers which I simply couldn't get to work together. It works both ways.
I was looking for an example of a tyre / rim combo that didn't work earlier and found somebody on TR that couldn't get GP5000 on Cosmics...Edited by JayRidesBikes on Thursday 16th February 11:16
https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/t/gp-5000-tl-fit...
anonymous said:
[redacted]
It's not unknown though if you go to the trouble of a little research. I don't know if it's worth doing for roadies, for MTB it's no exaggeration to say tubeless is fantastic, a real step forward in reliability but we ride different surfaces. Setting it up is a pain in the arse but that's all it is, it's not going to kill your wheels or ruin your bike. You just need to weigh up whether the benefits are worth it to you as an individual rider. You may need some new tools, some new knowledge but you only suss this by finding out. Pound to a penny GCN Tech have done a pile of videos on the subject, just sat there waiting for you to watch.
Lo & behold:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=tubel...
bobbo89 said:
Being a mountain biker I can never go back to tubes but for a road bike I really can't see the point.
Bought a used roadie last year to put on a trainer and it came tubeless and couldn't work out why anyone would, surely it's a massive hassle for little gain...?
I didn’t use tubeless on my road bike because I seldom got punctures…then got 6 in 2 months! Bought a used roadie last year to put on a trainer and it came tubeless and couldn't work out why anyone would, surely it's a massive hassle for little gain...?
So I switched and it isn’t just that tubeless offers greater puncture protection but the lower pressure I now run on 28mm is a more comfortable ride. Plus, my Strava segment times improved very slightly because roads are seldom smooth and lower pressure tyres have greater grip/surface area on the road - tubeless can be the faster set up!
Therefore, for me, going tubeless on my road bike has proven to be worth it.
I’ve run tubeless on MTB for years. My new gravel bike is tubeless too.
I’ll not go back to tubes. Harsher ride, slower and less puncture resistant.
My last roadbike came with tubeless and I loved it, until I got a puncture in the side wall which wouldn't seal, and I couldn't get the valve off to fit an inner tube. The manufacturer had managed to seal it in place.
I fixed that, and the next ride I got another sidewall puncture, then I got another puncture and that didn't seal either.
I think tubeless is great for low pressure/high volume like MTB, and it might also be OK for skinny/light riders on road bikes, but for bigger blokes on road I reckon the weight keeps the holes open stops the sealant working.
Been back with tubes for last couple of years, and it's much less stressful. Except my Giant wheels are almost impossible to get tyres on without 2 people and three+ tyre levers
I fixed that, and the next ride I got another sidewall puncture, then I got another puncture and that didn't seal either.
I think tubeless is great for low pressure/high volume like MTB, and it might also be OK for skinny/light riders on road bikes, but for bigger blokes on road I reckon the weight keeps the holes open stops the sealant working.
Been back with tubes for last couple of years, and it's much less stressful. Except my Giant wheels are almost impossible to get tyres on without 2 people and three+ tyre levers
i had tubeless tyres fitted to my roadie 2 years ago. i never once topped up the sealant, never had a flat. changed last week as the sidewalls were cracking, new set also fitted by my LBS and will be similarly 'maintained'. granted i only ride on smooth tarmac, but they aren't any hassle at all.
I have tubeless, on the wheels I have you don't need a special pump, they seat with just track pump (gp5000 tlr/Reynolds things). I am not sure if I've ever got a puncture tbh, never seen evidence of sealant on the bike frame, but maybe because I only ride on clean/dry roads mostly I just am lucky, I have wrecked two tyres with big sidewall rips, but I think this would have happened on tubed just the same.
Personally I think its a bit of a faff applying the sealant, the spraying of s
t everywhere if you do get a puncture and it takes a while to seal, the undoubted struggle of how tight the tyres can be to get on initially, the bacon strips sometimes likely failing. Haven't ridden tubes for a while but I don't remember being able to feel any particular difference when I switched to tubeless. I suppose on balance I'd give it a go, but I wouldn't expect it to be much different in feel. Tyres also much more expensive in tubeless form.
Removing valve cores is a trivial job should you need to do it, but you don't need to, I just lob a load of sealant in with the tyre off the rim (like 90% on with one bit to go) then turn it upside down to put the sealant to the other side of the wheel and push the final bit on.
Re new wheels making a difference, yes probably would, not much though. Not going to add 1mph to your rides.
Personally I think its a bit of a faff applying the sealant, the spraying of s
t everywhere if you do get a puncture and it takes a while to seal, the undoubted struggle of how tight the tyres can be to get on initially, the bacon strips sometimes likely failing. Haven't ridden tubes for a while but I don't remember being able to feel any particular difference when I switched to tubeless. I suppose on balance I'd give it a go, but I wouldn't expect it to be much different in feel. Tyres also much more expensive in tubeless form.Removing valve cores is a trivial job should you need to do it, but you don't need to, I just lob a load of sealant in with the tyre off the rim (like 90% on with one bit to go) then turn it upside down to put the sealant to the other side of the wheel and push the final bit on.
Re new wheels making a difference, yes probably would, not much though. Not going to add 1mph to your rides.
Edited by okgo on Friday 17th February 09:52
I've found for topping up sealant this to be ideal - https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/tubeless-se...
Annoyingly I've got two cuts in my rear tyre this week whilst away visiting family. One was too big for the sealant to be able to hold decent pressure but enough to pootle to base. My plan is to do a proper repair when I get back home and patch the inside of the tube before reapplying sealant. I do have a boot with me and a set of levers but didn't bring any sealant (plus it's rather rubbish weather) so just taking a day off the riding.
I've not needed a shock pump to seat either road (25mm) or MTB (2.5") tyres, although sometimes it's been a bit more pumping to get it to pop on. Holding the tyre flat with your hand to increase the pressure seems to help
Annoyingly I've got two cuts in my rear tyre this week whilst away visiting family. One was too big for the sealant to be able to hold decent pressure but enough to pootle to base. My plan is to do a proper repair when I get back home and patch the inside of the tube before reapplying sealant. I do have a boot with me and a set of levers but didn't bring any sealant (plus it's rather rubbish weather) so just taking a day off the riding.
I've not needed a shock pump to seat either road (25mm) or MTB (2.5") tyres, although sometimes it's been a bit more pumping to get it to pop on. Holding the tyre flat with your hand to increase the pressure seems to help
I’m a tube -> tubeless -> tube rider for both mtb and road/gravel. Admittedly haven’t tried it for Road but tubeless left me stranded twice and required a car journey home three times, including simultaneous puncture in both tyres. The problem was getting the tyre off with levers then back on again - just too frickin hard. I can change a tube in about 3 mins on the side of the trail.
So it’s just more phaff than it’s worth IME.
I usually ride solo and from home, for both mtb and gravel, and always have tools, tubes and levers with me, so having to call for a lift is not something I’d plan for.
I reckon I’ve needed 2 tubes in 6 years on the gravel bike.
Whereas the mtb has has two split sidewalls, and a rear wheel that won’t seal properly - the wheel rides fine but just won’t seal for tubeless. With tubes I’ve had one puncture and no calls for a lift home. Including continuing with a split in the sidewall.
I get that many people rave about the lower pressures and greater handling their bike sudden possesses once the tubes are gone, but I didn’t really notice that much difference and I’m still improving my times on my local track, so maybe it’s just me.
So it’s just more phaff than it’s worth IME.
I usually ride solo and from home, for both mtb and gravel, and always have tools, tubes and levers with me, so having to call for a lift is not something I’d plan for.
I reckon I’ve needed 2 tubes in 6 years on the gravel bike.
Whereas the mtb has has two split sidewalls, and a rear wheel that won’t seal properly - the wheel rides fine but just won’t seal for tubeless. With tubes I’ve had one puncture and no calls for a lift home. Including continuing with a split in the sidewall.
I get that many people rave about the lower pressures and greater handling their bike sudden possesses once the tubes are gone, but I didn’t really notice that much difference and I’m still improving my times on my local track, so maybe it’s just me.
I've been running tubeless for 4 years on my gravel bike (2x WTB tyres/1x Ultradynamico on 3 different wheel sets but all Mavic rims) - zero issues, perfect solution, they do lose pressure though - they are 45, 47 & 47.99(!)mm tyres respectively - I run them at 30 to 45 psi dependant on use, and they will lose 10-20% per week.
I got a new road bike last summer, specced Enve 4.5 Wheelset and the LBS built it with the ENVE SES 29mm tyres - tubeless. I've only done about 3,000km and honestly, the jury is out, but the more I ride it, the more I love it - it's also great for ultra long rides as gives an extra layer of protection. Compared to my other road bikes (with normal clinchers/tubes) it is definitely more comfy, but that's probably partly the frame (custom steel Vs carbon). I'm running them at c70psi which is above where they should be, they seem to 'float' below that. I've only had one puncture that I knew about and it needed a plug to fix the hole which worked seamlessly (although I do carry a tube as well) - when I rep0laced the tyre, it looks like there were 4 or 5 other minor punctures that had been sealed without me even realising.
If I only used the bike for sub-100km rides, I'd perhaps be tempted to stick with/revert to tubes, but this bike is to tackle long rides where the tubeless benefits should be greater. See how I feel after the summer, the Mallorca 312 and a couple of multi-day overseas bike trips.
I got a new road bike last summer, specced Enve 4.5 Wheelset and the LBS built it with the ENVE SES 29mm tyres - tubeless. I've only done about 3,000km and honestly, the jury is out, but the more I ride it, the more I love it - it's also great for ultra long rides as gives an extra layer of protection. Compared to my other road bikes (with normal clinchers/tubes) it is definitely more comfy, but that's probably partly the frame (custom steel Vs carbon). I'm running them at c70psi which is above where they should be, they seem to 'float' below that. I've only had one puncture that I knew about and it needed a plug to fix the hole which worked seamlessly (although I do carry a tube as well) - when I rep0laced the tyre, it looks like there were 4 or 5 other minor punctures that had been sealed without me even realising.
If I only used the bike for sub-100km rides, I'd perhaps be tempted to stick with/revert to tubes, but this bike is to tackle long rides where the tubeless benefits should be greater. See how I feel after the summer, the Mallorca 312 and a couple of multi-day overseas bike trips.
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