Road tubeless - worth it?
Discussion
Firstly I’m not new to tubeless. I’ve been running it on mtb for about 8 years with great success and also on gravel for about 3 years with good success.
I understand the benefits and disadvantages on paper but how many people are actually bothering with it on the road?
Up until now I’ve been on a tubed bike with GP5000 (4K before) and only suffered 2 punctures in last 5 years. Maybe luck who knows.
New frame is here and wheels are tubeless ready but not sure I want to do it. For reference I plan to go 28c GP5000.
Who’s riding tubes on a bike which is tubeless ready ? Anyone switched back to tubes ?
I understand the benefits and disadvantages on paper but how many people are actually bothering with it on the road?
Up until now I’ve been on a tubed bike with GP5000 (4K before) and only suffered 2 punctures in last 5 years. Maybe luck who knows.
New frame is here and wheels are tubeless ready but not sure I want to do it. For reference I plan to go 28c GP5000.
Who’s riding tubes on a bike which is tubeless ready ? Anyone switched back to tubes ?
My winter bike was tubeless for about 5yrs, only ever had one issue where the tyre got a hole that was too big for the sealant to sort so bunged a tube in to get me home. Road bike has been tubeless for a couple of years but was tubes on tubeless ready wheels until I got round to getting tubeless tyres, only does low miles as I mostly use a gravel bike these days. Gravel bike is currently fitted with its road wheels, running 32mm GP5000 tubeless on carbon rims.
Edited by Your Dad on Friday 6th January 09:30
d8mok said:
Firstly I’m not new to tubeless. I’ve been running it on mtb for about 8 years with great success and also on gravel for about 3 years with good success.
I understand the benefits and disadvantages on paper but how many people are actually bothering with it on the road?
Up until now I’ve been on a tubed bike with GP5000 (4K before) and only suffered 2 punctures in last 5 years. Maybe luck who knows.
New frame is here and wheels are tubeless ready but not sure I want to do it. For reference I plan to go 28c GP5000.
Who’s riding tubes on a bike which is tubeless ready ? Anyone switched back to tubes ?
There are lots of arguments both ways. Tubeless is more reliable but when you have a problem, it can be a big problem. I understand the benefits and disadvantages on paper but how many people are actually bothering with it on the road?
Up until now I’ve been on a tubed bike with GP5000 (4K before) and only suffered 2 punctures in last 5 years. Maybe luck who knows.
New frame is here and wheels are tubeless ready but not sure I want to do it. For reference I plan to go 28c GP5000.
Who’s riding tubes on a bike which is tubeless ready ? Anyone switched back to tubes ?
Many believe that road tyre pressures are not well suited to tubeless. I have had punctures that refuse to seal that are small ... too small for a plug and should have sealed.
I run tubeless on the winter bike at present and I am going back to tubeless on two more bikes ... after running tubed. Why? Because I have found a wheel/tyre combo where mounting is easy ... so, if I do get caught out, I can get a tube in if it doesn't see or can't be plugged. The previous set up (Bontrager Aelous 6 XXX + Schwalbe Pro One TLR) required gorrilla strength to mount ... never had a puncture but if I had, there is no way I could have mounted a tube. Now running the same wheels on both of these bikes, I'm using Pirelli P Zero race TLR which can be mounted/unmounted by hand.
This is the key to an anxiety free ride ... the compatibility of the wheel and tyre combo!
I run 28mm GP5000s with tubes on tubeless-ready Vel rims - I think they're the same rims as Hunt use for their basic wheelsets - and 25mm GP5000s on tubeless-ready Light Bicycle rims. I haven't gone tubeless because I do all my bike maintenance in the house and I don't fancy the mess.
I've never had any problems, but the beads can be tight enough that I can imagine it would be hard work to get them to seat with just a hand pump; they come up with quite a bang when using CO2 cartridges.
I've never had any problems, but the beads can be tight enough that I can imagine it would be hard work to get them to seat with just a hand pump; they come up with quite a bang when using CO2 cartridges.
I run tubes in my Conti 5000s. These are 25 mm, 100 psi, I can't get any wider in my frame. I don't like punctures, and probably have more than 6 a year, but I know I can fix them. Even if I forget a pump or patches or another tube, chances are the next cyclist coming along can help me out.
I don't see the benefit of tubeless for road. You still need to take a pump, levers and a spare tube (don't you?) and the weight savings are minimal.
I don't see the benefit of tubeless for road. You still need to take a pump, levers and a spare tube (don't you?) and the weight savings are minimal.
My road bike came tubeless and I couldn’t remount the tyre after putting it away for winter meant the tyres had deflated and the sealant had leaked. It was a huge pain, messy, wouldn’t reseat and I put a tube in in the end after advice on here. I’d never had a flat in the time I’d run them.
I run tubeless on my other bikes, an enduro, downhill and trail bike. I’d like to go back to tubeless on the road bike but it feels like a faff and I’m still concerned they don’t carry the volume of air to seal with enough left to carry on.
I run tubeless on my other bikes, an enduro, downhill and trail bike. I’d like to go back to tubeless on the road bike but it feels like a faff and I’m still concerned they don’t carry the volume of air to seal with enough left to carry on.
I'm a big fan and all my bikes are tubeless now. I love the feel, and running 50psi safely (32mm) on my gravel bike is a joy, especially in winter. I use an airbomb to inflate, well worth it, and a Rehook tyre glider to fit, also a gem. I have never not got home, and have never fitted a tube, (I don't carry one).
I run two sets of Zipp 303s wheels tubeless, one with 40mm gravel tyres at 41ish psi and the other with 28mm Pirelli somethings at around 50 and I vastly prefer it to running tubes (and the higher pressures I used to use). I’ve not seen any significant speed or power issues with the road tyres at the lower pressures but then I’m not a road racing god 
Maybe it’s because I’m used to tubeless from the mtb world.
Maybe it’s because I’m used to tubeless from the mtb world.
As somebody who is more into off road cycling I bought a Cannondale Topstone gravel bike last year and going tubeless was a nightmare.
It turned out that the tyres supplied were not tubeless even though the rims were taped up and they supplied the tubeless valves. It took me forever to get the tyres to stay up and then when I went for a ride I got a flat in the front that wouldn't seal. However once it had gone right down a quick blast with a CO2 inflator and it was fine again.
When I got home I cleaned the bike down and put it in the work stand in the garage and as I was lubing the chain it literally sprung a leak in the rear squirting a jet of sealant all over me, the garage and my Z4 Coupe!
A change to Schwalbe tyres and it has been fine since.
The reason for posting this is that I think the biggest problem people have with tubeless set ups is wrong tyre/rim combinations.
It turned out that the tyres supplied were not tubeless even though the rims were taped up and they supplied the tubeless valves. It took me forever to get the tyres to stay up and then when I went for a ride I got a flat in the front that wouldn't seal. However once it had gone right down a quick blast with a CO2 inflator and it was fine again.
When I got home I cleaned the bike down and put it in the work stand in the garage and as I was lubing the chain it literally sprung a leak in the rear squirting a jet of sealant all over me, the garage and my Z4 Coupe!
A change to Schwalbe tyres and it has been fine since.
The reason for posting this is that I think the biggest problem people have with tubeless set ups is wrong tyre/rim combinations.
Used tubeless for a number of years now. Had mavic wheels and ran their tyres with no issues. A bike change took me to Roval wheels and I’ve used the s-works 2bliss tyres with them.
Fitting is easy enough and inflation with a track pump was okay until I put 28s on. In order to initially seal I have bought one of the canisters you pressurize first and that works really well.
Having got used to installing, it really isn’t messy. I have a syringe/tube you put onto the valve which keeps things tidy.
I’ve rarely punctured but when I do, there is a bit of mess but easily cleaned after the cycle. During a race it was those directly behind me who suffered the most! But I was able to carry on and finish.
Only once have I had to put a tube in and that was partly my fault. I knew there was a recently sealed hole and occasionally it would spit more sealant out. But it failed completely on another ride. I do treat any bigger hole where I’ve noticed the sealant coming out as a tyre replacement. The main thing is just doing the job and getting home.
Bit of research, the right tools and some practice, it really isn’t difficult going tubeless. The lower pressures is big incentive to make it work.
Fitting is easy enough and inflation with a track pump was okay until I put 28s on. In order to initially seal I have bought one of the canisters you pressurize first and that works really well.
Having got used to installing, it really isn’t messy. I have a syringe/tube you put onto the valve which keeps things tidy.
I’ve rarely punctured but when I do, there is a bit of mess but easily cleaned after the cycle. During a race it was those directly behind me who suffered the most! But I was able to carry on and finish.
Only once have I had to put a tube in and that was partly my fault. I knew there was a recently sealed hole and occasionally it would spit more sealant out. But it failed completely on another ride. I do treat any bigger hole where I’ve noticed the sealant coming out as a tyre replacement. The main thing is just doing the job and getting home.
Bit of research, the right tools and some practice, it really isn’t difficult going tubeless. The lower pressures is big incentive to make it work.
Just to clarify I’ve no issue fitting and setting them up. Have all the correct tools and knowledge
However it seems a big percentage of road cyclists simply don’t bother as it’s not worth it.
I’ve had occasions where my gravel bikes Tyre has ripped and sprayed sealant on the bike which has resulted in a half strip down to remove it all. Not sure I want to go through that with a intergrated road bike.
However it seems a big percentage of road cyclists simply don’t bother as it’s not worth it.
I’ve had occasions where my gravel bikes Tyre has ripped and sprayed sealant on the bike which has resulted in a half strip down to remove it all. Not sure I want to go through that with a intergrated road bike.
I now run 28mm Gp5ks tubeless. IMO it's a 'qualified' yes.
I never did puncture a lot. Used to be on 23mm @100psi. Punctured maybe once a year, can change a tube super fast, really no issue with that.
I really wouldn't run tubeless at high pressures. Nothing scientific, but I feel like 28mm is about the crossover point.
Dunno if it's increasing age, or deteriorating roads, but I feel like riding got more and more onerous / battering. Fully bought into bigger tyres at lower pressures. Took me a while to really lower the pressures, but a new bike with discs and hookless wheels forced it (72psi max). I'm now sold, it's so much more comfortable. I know I could do that with tubes I know, but I'd worry about pinch flats, etc.
Feel wise, it doesn't 'seem' as fast because the whole thing is more calm. I'm convinced it's faster though (unscientific). One thing's for sure, I'm faster after 3 hrs, 'cos before I'd do anything to get off the damn bike by 3hrs
I don't think I'd go mad for it.. if your setup is tubeless ready, and you want / need new tyres then why not. I don't think it's as binary as people make out, both tubes/tubeless work decently and each has benefits.
ETA; just for the compatibility list, now on GP5000S / tanwall 28mm with Zipp 303S wheels. Fit is tight enough (goes on with thumbs, but not *too* easily) and I can seat with a floor pump and some effort (still easier with the airshot of course)
I never did puncture a lot. Used to be on 23mm @100psi. Punctured maybe once a year, can change a tube super fast, really no issue with that.
I really wouldn't run tubeless at high pressures. Nothing scientific, but I feel like 28mm is about the crossover point.
Dunno if it's increasing age, or deteriorating roads, but I feel like riding got more and more onerous / battering. Fully bought into bigger tyres at lower pressures. Took me a while to really lower the pressures, but a new bike with discs and hookless wheels forced it (72psi max). I'm now sold, it's so much more comfortable. I know I could do that with tubes I know, but I'd worry about pinch flats, etc.
Feel wise, it doesn't 'seem' as fast because the whole thing is more calm. I'm convinced it's faster though (unscientific). One thing's for sure, I'm faster after 3 hrs, 'cos before I'd do anything to get off the damn bike by 3hrs
I don't think I'd go mad for it.. if your setup is tubeless ready, and you want / need new tyres then why not. I don't think it's as binary as people make out, both tubes/tubeless work decently and each has benefits.
ETA; just for the compatibility list, now on GP5000S / tanwall 28mm with Zipp 303S wheels. Fit is tight enough (goes on with thumbs, but not *too* easily) and I can seat with a floor pump and some effort (still easier with the airshot of course)
Edited by upsidedownmark on Sunday 8th January 11:01
I've run tubeless for a few years now and would also agree that it's 50/50 really. I believe that it has saved me from quite a few punctures (you can see sealant weep holes all over an older tyre), but I've had a couple of big punctures which do seal, but you know need to either replace the tyre or take it off and patch from the inside. With a tubed setup you could just either leave it and maybe squirt a bit of glue in.
However in maybe 20,000km of riding I've only had a handful of incidents, and all were punctures which happened before and I hadn't patched (the inside of the tyre) and which failed at a later date. All just needed a tube putting in and were no big deal.
Carrying a spare tube/CO2/pump is unfortunately still necessary, unless you have a reliable lift home/taxi etc. available.
However in maybe 20,000km of riding I've only had a handful of incidents, and all were punctures which happened before and I hadn't patched (the inside of the tyre) and which failed at a later date. All just needed a tube putting in and were no big deal.
Carrying a spare tube/CO2/pump is unfortunately still necessary, unless you have a reliable lift home/taxi etc. available.
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