Change from 2x to 1x Road / Gravel Bike
Discussion
Hi All,
Got a Cannondale Slate 105 with a 2x11 set up. I want to change to a 1x11 setup as I think this will work just as well for me as the 2x setup. I have a few questions though.
1. Can I just ditch the large ring on the front or will this cause issues with chain alignment in the extremes of gears?
2. Can I run the left hand shifter with no cable once I've ditched the front mech or will it be all floppy?
3. Can I run an MTB rear mech with the road bike shifter or will the cable pull be all different? Can I fix this?,
Any insight in how to make the change would be appreciated.
Thanks all.
Got a Cannondale Slate 105 with a 2x11 set up. I want to change to a 1x11 setup as I think this will work just as well for me as the 2x setup. I have a few questions though.
1. Can I just ditch the large ring on the front or will this cause issues with chain alignment in the extremes of gears?
2. Can I run the left hand shifter with no cable once I've ditched the front mech or will it be all floppy?
3. Can I run an MTB rear mech with the road bike shifter or will the cable pull be all different? Can I fix this?,
Any insight in how to make the change would be appreciated.
Thanks all.
If your going to do it - you need to do it right.
1. Can I just ditch the large ring on the front or will this cause issues with chain alignment in the extremes of gears?
All your doing then is just 'removing' some of your usable range and your chain will fall off.
A true 1x system uses:
- A Chainring designed to retain the chain without the guidance of the derrariluer cage, narrow wide teeth and other technologies.
- A Chainring and crank designed to give you the correct chainline (whihc, you've guessed it, is about halfway between your current small and large rings)
- Chainring size is matched with a much wider range casette giving you adecent spread of gears, not much less than your existing 2x system with its smaller range casette
2. Can I run the left hand shifter with no cable once I've ditched the front mech or will it be all floppy?
- The Combined STI Brake/Shifter feels fine wihtout the cable in there. It'll move, but it doesnt 'flop' about on its own.
3. Can I run an MTB rear mech with the road bike shifter or will the cable pull be all different? Can I fix this?
No. You need to select the right parts to match. On the assumption you have 105 11 speed shifting currently, you need to use a GRX or Ultegra RX rear mech which will work with an 11-40, or 11-42 if you push it, casette.
Any insight in how to make the change would be appreciated
Again, assuming your on 2x 11 speed 105 the minimum you need is:
A suitable 1x chainset and 1x specific chainring (GRX or similar)
A GRX or Ultegra RX rear Derraileur
A wider ranging casette (11-40 or 11-42 ideally for your shimano setup)
1. Can I just ditch the large ring on the front or will this cause issues with chain alignment in the extremes of gears?
All your doing then is just 'removing' some of your usable range and your chain will fall off.
A true 1x system uses:
- A Chainring designed to retain the chain without the guidance of the derrariluer cage, narrow wide teeth and other technologies.
- A Chainring and crank designed to give you the correct chainline (whihc, you've guessed it, is about halfway between your current small and large rings)
- Chainring size is matched with a much wider range casette giving you adecent spread of gears, not much less than your existing 2x system with its smaller range casette
2. Can I run the left hand shifter with no cable once I've ditched the front mech or will it be all floppy?
- The Combined STI Brake/Shifter feels fine wihtout the cable in there. It'll move, but it doesnt 'flop' about on its own.
3. Can I run an MTB rear mech with the road bike shifter or will the cable pull be all different? Can I fix this?
No. You need to select the right parts to match. On the assumption you have 105 11 speed shifting currently, you need to use a GRX or Ultegra RX rear mech which will work with an 11-40, or 11-42 if you push it, casette.
Any insight in how to make the change would be appreciated
Again, assuming your on 2x 11 speed 105 the minimum you need is:
A suitable 1x chainset and 1x specific chainring (GRX or similar)
A GRX or Ultegra RX rear Derraileur
A wider ranging casette (11-40 or 11-42 ideally for your shimano setup)
Cheers snotrag.
Realised that I would need new Narrow / Wide ring and cassette to get the range back. Just wanted to see if I could get away with just ditching a ring and mech on the front to make it all work. Sounds like I can't (or not satisfactorily anyway). Don't mind chucking a bit of cash at the project, but didn't want to do stuff that may have been unnecessary.
Your summary is very helpful. Ta.
Realised that I would need new Narrow / Wide ring and cassette to get the range back. Just wanted to see if I could get away with just ditching a ring and mech on the front to make it all work. Sounds like I can't (or not satisfactorily anyway). Don't mind chucking a bit of cash at the project, but didn't want to do stuff that may have been unnecessary.
Your summary is very helpful. Ta.
Re re-removing front rings. All you need is a cheap retention device.
I ran 1 x 9 for years on my xc bike long before 1 by was a thing.
Never had a narrow wide on it and never dropped a chain and rode trails you wouldn't go near on a gravel bike.
It's a good way to get fit... But less extreme than going single speed.
I ran 1 x 9 for years on my xc bike long before 1 by was a thing.
Never had a narrow wide on it and never dropped a chain and rode trails you wouldn't go near on a gravel bike.
It's a good way to get fit... But less extreme than going single speed.
Scoobyshue said:
TGCOTF-dewey said:
Re re-removing front rings. All you need is a cheap retention device.
....or leave the front mech on and adjust the limit screws so it can't move? 
It did for me, but my vanity meant I swapped it for proper retention widget as it looked a bit naff.
Have you tried something with similar gearing in real life?
My road bike is 105 2x11, my gravel (but only ever used on road with slicks) bike is GRX400 2x10. They’re both fine on road.
My new e-gravel bike is SRAM AXS 1x11 and there’s a notable jump/gap in gearing on the flat and moderate climbs where in both instances I want a half gear.
I can live with it on that bike for what I intend to use it for, but on either of my other bikes it would piss me off to the hilt.
My road bike is 105 2x11, my gravel (but only ever used on road with slicks) bike is GRX400 2x10. They’re both fine on road.
My new e-gravel bike is SRAM AXS 1x11 and there’s a notable jump/gap in gearing on the flat and moderate climbs where in both instances I want a half gear.
I can live with it on that bike for what I intend to use it for, but on either of my other bikes it would piss me off to the hilt.
Firstly I'd work out what gear range you actually want/need. You might not need a mega range cassette, depending how fit you are and where you ride. (That takes care of the annoying jumps between gears) You definitely need a narrow/wide chainring which should eliminate the requirement for any front retention device. You *may* get away with your current rear mech - 1x rear mechs are clutched/longer to take up chain slack, but for regular riding on smooth surfaces may not be necessary (disclaimer: I've never tested this!) I also believe that some mtb rear mechs may work with road shifters - I think 9 speed mech with 10 speed shifters if shimano. Finally, I'm not convinced you would have to change your crankset due to chainline issues. My 1x is set up on a 2x chainset and it has never been a problem
Definitely use a gear comparison tool too look at your current 2x range versus a 1x range. There are a few online but I like www.gear-calculator.com
I run 2x11 on my summer road bike, with a generous 50x34 on the front and 11-32 on the back. In winter I run my gravel bike with a set of 700c road wheels, which has a 1x11 SRAM setup, using a 42 on the front and a Shimano XT 11-40 cassette on the back. That gives more or less the same bottom end as my summer 2x setup, and the top end is fast enough for winter training and social speeds, while the jumps between gears aren't a million miles away from the most commonly used range on the other bike (at least for social speeds). Changing to a 44t front ring would make it even better, but would make it harder to switch the winter bike between road and gravel duties.
I do notice more of a gap between gears, of course, but not enough to outweigh the benefits of a simple 1x setup for offroad and riding on crappy winter roads. The key point is to really think about the gears you use on your 2x setup, and work out if there's a way to give yourself both the same range and similar gaps, ignoring any extremes that you rarely use.
I run 2x11 on my summer road bike, with a generous 50x34 on the front and 11-32 on the back. In winter I run my gravel bike with a set of 700c road wheels, which has a 1x11 SRAM setup, using a 42 on the front and a Shimano XT 11-40 cassette on the back. That gives more or less the same bottom end as my summer 2x setup, and the top end is fast enough for winter training and social speeds, while the jumps between gears aren't a million miles away from the most commonly used range on the other bike (at least for social speeds). Changing to a 44t front ring would make it even better, but would make it harder to switch the winter bike between road and gravel duties.
I do notice more of a gap between gears, of course, but not enough to outweigh the benefits of a simple 1x setup for offroad and riding on crappy winter roads. The key point is to really think about the gears you use on your 2x setup, and work out if there's a way to give yourself both the same range and similar gaps, ignoring any extremes that you rarely use.
Ok, fellow Slate owner here.
Why do you want to move to 1x, is it current gearing or simplification?
If it’s the former, I’d offer the following…
The standard 2x Slate uses a 52/36 up front and an 11-28 on the rear.
The 650b wheels give the equivalent of a 23mm tyre on a 700c rim, that’s why the gearing is pitched as it is.
On my Slate I wanted a bit more at the bottom end, so moved to a GS rear derailleur and fitted an 11-34 cassette.
I run it as effectively a low and high range, inner front chain wheel off-road, outer on-road.
I can now get up pretty much any incline I want, but have avoided the gaps that 1x will give you.
Why do you want to move to 1x, is it current gearing or simplification?
If it’s the former, I’d offer the following…
The standard 2x Slate uses a 52/36 up front and an 11-28 on the rear.
The 650b wheels give the equivalent of a 23mm tyre on a 700c rim, that’s why the gearing is pitched as it is.
On my Slate I wanted a bit more at the bottom end, so moved to a GS rear derailleur and fitted an 11-34 cassette.
I run it as effectively a low and high range, inner front chain wheel off-road, outer on-road.
I can now get up pretty much any incline I want, but have avoided the gaps that 1x will give you.
Edited by wobert on Friday 2nd December 18:25
wobert said:
Ok, fellow Slate owner here.
Why do you want to move to 1x, is it current gearing or simplification?
Firstly, thanks to everyone for the input and advice.Why do you want to move to 1x, is it current gearing or simplification?
.....in response to wobert....it'sa bit of both. My MTB is 1x and I love it for it's simplicity. I have no problem with the gaps between gears.
I virtually never use the top gears when I am riding the bike so I suspect it is overgeared for what I use the bike for. I was thinking along the lines of 42 front with an 11-42 rear which, I think, will give me a decent climbing gear and a reasonable top end. I did a gravel ride over the Southdowns back in the summer and with a 36 front, 32 rear gear it was too much of a struggle to get up some of the steeper, longer climbs. Whilst being able to just about make them I was battered at the top.
The main priority I have is that the system works well. If this means I have to throw a bit of cash at it, then that's what I will do. However, if I could get a releable system with a lower spend then obviously that would be a bonus.
I still don't get the "front mech is evil and must be rid of" thing. Modern bikes are complicated and built to tight tolerances, need many specialist servicing tools and careful setting up. Getting rid of arguably the simplest component on the bike, a simple cage that shoves the chain over to give you another range of gears, makes no odds IMHO. People always argue how hard they are to clean...but compared to the rear mech they are incredibly simple...30 seconds with a hosepipe and a brush, job done.
I went through the whole 1x/2x debate when I built my current gravel/bikepacking bike and after having spent ages on the gear calculators, decided it just wasn't worth it. The real clincher for me at the time on GRX was weight. Taking data from Shimano, the levers all weigh the same anyway, and any savings of getting rid of one chainring, a cable and a lightweight ally front mech are immediately negated when you stick a stack of enormous steel dinner plates on the back wheel.
I've had s/s mountain bikes, normal 2x11 road/gravel/adventure bikes and even got a 3 speed Pashley Guv'nor in my shed, but for me a 1x11 on a road/gravel bike makes no sense. When I go multi day bikepacking/touring I want all the gears I can get. I kinda get it for proper hardcore gravel riding, or if you just like the aesthetics of 1x11, but I would think very hard about what you're actually going to gain for what you say is a "road/gravel" bike.
I went through the whole 1x/2x debate when I built my current gravel/bikepacking bike and after having spent ages on the gear calculators, decided it just wasn't worth it. The real clincher for me at the time on GRX was weight. Taking data from Shimano, the levers all weigh the same anyway, and any savings of getting rid of one chainring, a cable and a lightweight ally front mech are immediately negated when you stick a stack of enormous steel dinner plates on the back wheel.
I've had s/s mountain bikes, normal 2x11 road/gravel/adventure bikes and even got a 3 speed Pashley Guv'nor in my shed, but for me a 1x11 on a road/gravel bike makes no sense. When I go multi day bikepacking/touring I want all the gears I can get. I kinda get it for proper hardcore gravel riding, or if you just like the aesthetics of 1x11, but I would think very hard about what you're actually going to gain for what you say is a "road/gravel" bike.
All very interesting.
One of the main reasons was that the range I currently have is over-geared for what I need. I think that a 1x will give me a suitable range for 95% of the time hence looking at that.
A front mech may be simple but I think it is a bit of a clumsy solution mashing the chain from one ring to another (not withstanding that it has been around for years) which is another reason I was thinking of getting rid.
I could try smaller rings for my 2x setup. Would I need a different front mech to accommodate the smaller rings or would the current one be OK just moving it slightly down the seatpost to sit closer to the smaller rings (hope that makes sense).
One of the main reasons was that the range I currently have is over-geared for what I need. I think that a 1x will give me a suitable range for 95% of the time hence looking at that.
A front mech may be simple but I think it is a bit of a clumsy solution mashing the chain from one ring to another (not withstanding that it has been around for years
) which is another reason I was thinking of getting rid.I could try smaller rings for my 2x setup. Would I need a different front mech to accommodate the smaller rings or would the current one be OK just moving it slightly down the seatpost to sit closer to the smaller rings (hope that makes sense).
You just move it lower.
I contemplated 1x for my winter/gravel bike when I first built it as it's a cross frame and so the front mech cable runs through the top tube - which means a top-pull front mech (thin on the ground - no space for an MTB one) or a pulley to reverse the cable direction (awkward and not compatible with mudguards).
In the end I couldn't put together a 1x setup that worked well for me on the road so built it 2x. I now have a different bike for winter road riding, so have rebuilt the old one a bit more gravel-focused, but it's still 2x, and has a more useable range of ratios than any 1x setup would.
I contemplated 1x for my winter/gravel bike when I first built it as it's a cross frame and so the front mech cable runs through the top tube - which means a top-pull front mech (thin on the ground - no space for an MTB one) or a pulley to reverse the cable direction (awkward and not compatible with mudguards).
In the end I couldn't put together a 1x setup that worked well for me on the road so built it 2x. I now have a different bike for winter road riding, so have rebuilt the old one a bit more gravel-focused, but it's still 2x, and has a more useable range of ratios than any 1x setup would.
lufbramatt said:
Wolf tooth Tanpan allows you to run MTB mechs with road shifters. Little pulley thing to change the cable pull ratio.
As do Jtek: http://www.jtekengineering.com/shiftmate/shiftmate...Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff