105 at 9000 miles
Discussion
Have had my Cannondale Topstone for 2 and a half years and I've just ticked over 9000 miles. I'm still on the original chain and cassette. I assume I'm about (over) due replacement. Anything in particular I should go for in terms of cost effective upgrade, or on 105 is it not worth spending the extra?
I'd like to do away with the FSA crank and replace with Shimano, but I've just had to replace the bottom bracket so want to get some use out of it first. Would consider a complete drivetrain replacement if it's worthwhile though.
I'm fairly new to cycling, so apologies if these are stupid/ignorant questions.
I'd like to do away with the FSA crank and replace with Shimano, but I've just had to replace the bottom bracket so want to get some use out of it first. Would consider a complete drivetrain replacement if it's worthwhile though.
I'm fairly new to cycling, so apologies if these are stupid/ignorant questions.
RoadToad84 said:
Have had my Cannondale Topstone for 2 and a half years and I've just ticked over 9000 miles. I'm still on the original chain and cassette. I assume I'm about (over) due replacement. Anything in particular I should go for in terms of cost effective upgrade, or on 105 is it not worth spending the extra?
I'd like to do away with the FSA crank and replace with Shimano, but I've just had to replace the bottom bracket so want to get some use out of it first. Would consider a complete drivetrain replacement if it's worthwhile though.
I'm fairly new to cycling, so apologies if these are stupid/ignorant questions.
I'd stick with 105, a more expensive DA or Ultegra chain and cassette will only cost you more an not add anything to your riding pleasure, despite the few grams in weight you'd save.I'd like to do away with the FSA crank and replace with Shimano, but I've just had to replace the bottom bracket so want to get some use out of it first. Would consider a complete drivetrain replacement if it's worthwhile though.
I'm fairly new to cycling, so apologies if these are stupid/ignorant questions.
Maybe just look at swapping for some new chainrings instead of a whole new chainset ... that way you can make use of the new BB?
Don't forget jockey wheels for your rear mech, new ones do help the shifting quality.
RoadToad84 said:
Have had my Cannondale Topstone for 2 and a half years and I've just ticked over 9000 miles. I'm still on the original chain and cassette. I assume I'm about (over) due replacement. Anything in particular I should go for in terms of cost effective upgrade, or on 105 is it not worth spending the extra?
I'd like to do away with the FSA crank and replace with Shimano, but I've just had to replace the bottom bracket so want to get some use out of it first. Would consider a complete drivetrain replacement if it's worthwhile though.
I'm fairly new to cycling, so apologies if these are stupid/ignorant questions.
Get it measured.I'd like to do away with the FSA crank and replace with Shimano, but I've just had to replace the bottom bracket so want to get some use out of it first. Would consider a complete drivetrain replacement if it's worthwhile though.
I'm fairly new to cycling, so apologies if these are stupid/ignorant questions.
The Dura-Ace chain on my F10 did 14,000km before needing to be replaced. The cassette didn't need replacing and has done an additional 4,000km, and still doesn't need replacing.
JEA1K said:
I'd stick with 105, a more expensive DA or Ultegra chain and cassette will only cost you more an not add anything to your riding pleasure, despite the few grams in weight you'd save.
Maybe just look at swapping for some new chainrings instead of a whole new chainset ... that way you can make use of the new BB?
Don't forget jockey wheels for your rear mech, new ones do help the shifting quality.
Thanks, that's kind of what I wanted to hear. I think a new chain would be prudent at this mileage, regardless. The rear cassette I'm less sure of, would it be obvious if it was knackered? It comes up alright after a clean and degrease, with no obvious damage to the teeth. Maybe just look at swapping for some new chainrings instead of a whole new chainset ... that way you can make use of the new BB?
Don't forget jockey wheels for your rear mech, new ones do help the shifting quality.
Jockey wheels are a good shout, they're cheap as chips as well by the look of it. Worth upgrading those to ceramic bearings etc?
RoadToad84 said:
JEA1K said:
I'd stick with 105, a more expensive DA or Ultegra chain and cassette will only cost you more an not add anything to your riding pleasure, despite the few grams in weight you'd save.
Maybe just look at swapping for some new chainrings instead of a whole new chainset ... that way you can make use of the new BB?
Don't forget jockey wheels for your rear mech, new ones do help the shifting quality.
Thanks, that's kind of what I wanted to hear. I think a new chain would be prudent at this mileage, regardless. The rear cassette I'm less sure of, would it be obvious if it was knackered? It comes up alright after a clean and degrease, with no obvious damage to the teeth. Maybe just look at swapping for some new chainrings instead of a whole new chainset ... that way you can make use of the new BB?
Don't forget jockey wheels for your rear mech, new ones do help the shifting quality.
Jockey wheels are a good shout, they're cheap as chips as well by the look of it. Worth upgrading those to ceramic bearings etc?
And don’t bother with ceramic bearings. Waste of money.
ucb said:
gazza285 said:
Both FSA and Shimano use 24mm bottom bracket axles, you should be able to use a Shimano chainset in an FSA bottom bracket.
Generally true except for FSA Megaexo (BB4000) which used the unique 19mm diameter crank spindle. Its not very durable but cheap
The mileages being mentioned on chains and cassettes on here is staggering (to me).
No idea what I'm doing wrong, but I'm lucky to get 2,000 miles from a chain and 3,000 to 4,000 miles from a cassette on my road bike. I keep the chains clean too, and use wax lube. But then I'm daft and ride through winter and take the bike on the sea front and sometimes go chasing VeloViewer tiles down byways, bridleways, and even (whisper it) the occasional footpath, so that might have a bearing on my (lack of) drive train longevity.
The bike is a 2015 Trek Emonda that was originally equipped with a "full Shimano Ultegra" groupset. But, at 20,700 miles (+) it's worked hard, and needed new chainrings during the Covid lockdown period. Couldn't get them for love nor money, nor could my LBS order them in with any certainty on a delivery date. But there were complete chainsets floating about on Wiggle, etc, which weren't far off the same price as a pair of replacement chainrings, so I bought a complete one of those. After six years on Ultegra I expected 105 to be a "downgrade" but aside from a couple of grams it's at least as good as the previous generation of Ultegra. I've also "downgraded" my cassette to an 11-speed Shimano 105 cassette (and sometimes even a Microshift alternative), and I've found that Decathlon stock a KMC X11 chain for decent money, but it's in a box marked with their in-house branding.
No idea what I'm doing wrong, but I'm lucky to get 2,000 miles from a chain and 3,000 to 4,000 miles from a cassette on my road bike. I keep the chains clean too, and use wax lube. But then I'm daft and ride through winter and take the bike on the sea front and sometimes go chasing VeloViewer tiles down byways, bridleways, and even (whisper it) the occasional footpath, so that might have a bearing on my (lack of) drive train longevity.
The bike is a 2015 Trek Emonda that was originally equipped with a "full Shimano Ultegra" groupset. But, at 20,700 miles (+) it's worked hard, and needed new chainrings during the Covid lockdown period. Couldn't get them for love nor money, nor could my LBS order them in with any certainty on a delivery date. But there were complete chainsets floating about on Wiggle, etc, which weren't far off the same price as a pair of replacement chainrings, so I bought a complete one of those. After six years on Ultegra I expected 105 to be a "downgrade" but aside from a couple of grams it's at least as good as the previous generation of Ultegra. I've also "downgraded" my cassette to an 11-speed Shimano 105 cassette (and sometimes even a Microshift alternative), and I've found that Decathlon stock a KMC X11 chain for decent money, but it's in a box marked with their in-house branding.
RoadToad84 said:
Have had my Cannondale Topstone for 2 and a half years and I've just ticked over 9000 miles.
RoadToad84 said:
I'm fairly new to cycling
I would say not at that mileage!!! 
105 is good gear “groupset of the people” so I would say very marginal gains upgrading to Ultegra/Dura-ace/etc.
I would suggest replacing chain more frequently, you will get more mileage out of cassettes that way.
yellowjack said:
The mileages being mentioned on chains and cassettes on here is staggering (to me).
No idea what I'm doing wrong, but I'm lucky to get 2,000 miles from a chain and 3,000 to 4,000 miles from a cassette on my road bike. I keep the chains clean too, and use wax lube. But then I'm daft and ride through winter and take the bike on the sea front and sometimes go chasing VeloViewer tiles down byways, bridleways, and even (whisper it) the occasional footpath, so that might have a bearing on my (lack of) drive train longevity.
The bike is a 2015 Trek Emonda that was originally equipped with a "full Shimano Ultegra" groupset. But, at 20,700 miles (+) it's worked hard, and needed new chainrings during the Covid lockdown period. Couldn't get them for love nor money, nor could my LBS order them in with any certainty on a delivery date. But there were complete chainsets floating about on Wiggle, etc, which weren't far off the same price as a pair of replacement chainrings, so I bought a complete one of those. After six years on Ultegra I expected 105 to be a "downgrade" but aside from a couple of grams it's at least as good as the previous generation of Ultegra. I've also "downgraded" my cassette to an 11-speed Shimano 105 cassette (and sometimes even a Microshift alternative), and I've found that Decathlon stock a KMC X11 chain for decent money, but it's in a box marked with their in-house branding.
Use does affect wear massively, obviously, My F10 is only used in the summer or warmer winter days. It gets wet, but never salty or overly dirty.No idea what I'm doing wrong, but I'm lucky to get 2,000 miles from a chain and 3,000 to 4,000 miles from a cassette on my road bike. I keep the chains clean too, and use wax lube. But then I'm daft and ride through winter and take the bike on the sea front and sometimes go chasing VeloViewer tiles down byways, bridleways, and even (whisper it) the occasional footpath, so that might have a bearing on my (lack of) drive train longevity.
The bike is a 2015 Trek Emonda that was originally equipped with a "full Shimano Ultegra" groupset. But, at 20,700 miles (+) it's worked hard, and needed new chainrings during the Covid lockdown period. Couldn't get them for love nor money, nor could my LBS order them in with any certainty on a delivery date. But there were complete chainsets floating about on Wiggle, etc, which weren't far off the same price as a pair of replacement chainrings, so I bought a complete one of those. After six years on Ultegra I expected 105 to be a "downgrade" but aside from a couple of grams it's at least as good as the previous generation of Ultegra. I've also "downgraded" my cassette to an 11-speed Shimano 105 cassette (and sometimes even a Microshift alternative), and I've found that Decathlon stock a KMC X11 chain for decent money, but it's in a box marked with their in-house branding.
Conversely, my Gravel Bike get used hard in every possible weather and condition. It's done 6,000km in 20 months. It's on it's third chain, third BB, third set of discs, second cassette and second chainring. I also got though a set of brake pads every second ride until the mechanic in my LBS played with different compounds to increase longevity.
Kes Arevo said:
Julian Scott said:
I also got though a set of brake pads every second ride until the mechanic in my LBS played with different compounds to increase longevity.
A set of brake pads every second ride? How far was each ride??Disc pads, not rim.
Resin pads are typically supplied OEM as they are quiet(er), and kinder to the disc, and work fine on road mostly... but in the presence of mud, the destroy themselves in amazingly short order. Metallic pads can tend to make a lot of noise, and don't like 'light' use, they want abusing, it seems quite a lot of bikes these days have discs marked 'resin pads only'. Semi-metallic/semi sintered are a half way house.
If muddy/crappy conditions are expected, I'd throw resin pads (and any resin-only discs) in the bin..
The whole cassette thing bemuses me, on many levels. Why are we not talking about replacing your chain rings every chain / every other chain? Yep, they're bigger, but you don't share the load between them like you do sprockets, and they're made out of aluminium, and a lot softer than the steel of (most) cassettes.. In (too) many years of being around bikes, I've very occasionally seen chainring teeth worn to hooked profiles, never a cassette..
Also, chains 'stretch', sure (well.. they wear around the pins where they articulate, giving the appearance of stretch), which is fair, it's a high load area, and as we cram in more gears, we make the side plates narrower, worsening that situation.. so yes. But they also have rollers, which (amazing concept) roll on the pins, saving the wear on the teeth..
I just don't see it.. TBH, I'm of the opinion it's because cassettes are (in the main) at a price point where it's 'acceptable' to regard it as a consumable. If your LBS said 'new crankset' every couple of services, they'd get told to toddle on, and that it wasn't 'fit for purpose'.
</tinfoil hat..>
If muddy/crappy conditions are expected, I'd throw resin pads (and any resin-only discs) in the bin..
The whole cassette thing bemuses me, on many levels. Why are we not talking about replacing your chain rings every chain / every other chain? Yep, they're bigger, but you don't share the load between them like you do sprockets, and they're made out of aluminium, and a lot softer than the steel of (most) cassettes.. In (too) many years of being around bikes, I've very occasionally seen chainring teeth worn to hooked profiles, never a cassette..
Also, chains 'stretch', sure (well.. they wear around the pins where they articulate, giving the appearance of stretch), which is fair, it's a high load area, and as we cram in more gears, we make the side plates narrower, worsening that situation.. so yes. But they also have rollers, which (amazing concept) roll on the pins, saving the wear on the teeth..
I just don't see it.. TBH, I'm of the opinion it's because cassettes are (in the main) at a price point where it's 'acceptable' to regard it as a consumable. If your LBS said 'new crankset' every couple of services, they'd get told to toddle on, and that it wasn't 'fit for purpose'.
</tinfoil hat..>
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