Scott Spark Ultimate - DI2 setup for a kids bike

[Russ_H]

Morning all,
I picked up a Scott Spark Ultimate DI2 a few weeks ago for my lad - full XTR DI2 group set, 120mm travel, carbon everything, supposed to be around 10kg. Would be mine if bigger, honestly I’m pretty jealous😀

Will be putting on a shorter stem & maybe shorter cranks. Possibly put his current 26” wheels on until he get used to it.

It’s currently a 2x11 and setup to go through all the gears sequentially 1-22. Normally I’d convert to 1x11 straight away for simplicity but….

- is it possible to remove the front mech & shifter or is it all integrated?
- given that DI2 is supposed to be a pretty sweet setup would it be a backwards step?
- if I go 1x11 it would probably be 30T chainring with an 11-46 at the back.

What’s the groups thoughts?
Cheers

[Russ_H]

[anonymous-user]

I’d leave the gears as is to be honest, not worth the faff. I’d leave the 29” wheels too. Running low end wheels on it would annoy me. not sure 26s would make that much difference to geometry and tyre availability is good for both so it’s not really an issue

Make sure the shocks are have suitable pressure if he’s on the lighter side, what height/weight is he?

[Russ_H]

Bike comes with 27.5, may trial sticking his Easton carbon 26ers on until he’s a little bigger & stronger 👍

[Russ_H]

He’s around 150cm tall, Scott frame is the same size as his current hard tail give/take 5-10mm. Weight is 1-1.5kg heavier

[leyorkie]

Someone may be able to confirm this but on my bike the changes are limited eg from high to low it’s top 11th gear down to no 2 then the front mech comes in and shifts to little ring and 4 at the back then 3,2,1 and on the up shift it jumps again so there’s no setting to get 11 speeds with one chainring. I don’t think it can be changed unless dealer software has more features to change the sequence.
In short I think it only works with 2 front rings.

[Gareth79]

I don't know the specifics of Di2 MTB but it should be pretty easy to DIY. If the lever comes off then you can remove it and whatever cable links it to the junction, or you can leave it in place, could change it to operate the rear derailleur as a back in case the other one is ever damaged?

You should be able to remove the front derailleur, change the chainring/cassette etc and then go through the system setup (in the e-tubes app/software) to be 1x11.

I'd say go ahead - it will make it much easier for him to DIY maintain (especially when out on the bike), front derailleurs are a faff.

leyorkie said:

Someone may be able to confirm this but on my bike the changes are limited eg from high to low it’s top 11th gear down to no 2 then the front mech comes in and shifts to little ring and 4 at the back then 3,2,1 and on the up shift it jumps again so there’s no setting to get 11 speeds with one chainring. I don’t think it can be changed unless dealer software has more features to change the sequence.
In short I think it only works with 2 front rings.

Sounds like you have it in syncro mode, that is just an operational mode which can be disabled/enabled through the junction box button. I run mine manually where each lever works derailleurs independently like a regular bike. You could probably disable that mode, unplug the front derailleur and it would just work as 1x11.

Edited by Gareth79 on Monday 5th September 16:48

[dai1983]

Can get 11 speed deore 11-51t cassettes of the rear mech is up to it. Know its all steel and heavier but the bigger cogs don't wear as fast

[leyorkie]

Gareth79 said:

Sounds like you have it in syncro mode, that is just an operational mode which can be disabled/enabled through the junction box button. I run mine manually where each lever works derailleurs independently like a regular bike. You could probably disable that mode, unplug the front derailleur and it would just work as 1x11.

Edited by Gareth79 on Monday 5th September 16:48

I only have the one (rh) lever and I must admit to leaving it as it came I haven’t considered changing to a 1x11

[Russ_H]

dai1983 said:

Can get 11 speed deore 11-51t cassettes of the rear mech is up to it. Know its all steel and heavier but the bigger cogs don't wear as fast

Ooooo......didn't know that existed - will check if I have a medium or long cage mech.
Cheers

[Russ_H]

Gareth79 said:

Sounds like you have it in syncro mode, that is just an operational mode which can be disabled/enabled through the junction box button. I run mine manually where each lever works derailleurs independently like a regular bike. You could probably disable that mode, unplug the front derailleur and it would just work as 1x11.

Edited by Gareth79 on Monday 5th September 16:48

Will give that a try. Can you do all the programming from the control box screen or do you need to plug into a PC?
Have seen E-Tube mentioned although that seems to mainly apply to syncro mode??

Thanks........from DI2 noob

[Gareth79]

Russ_H said:

Gareth79 said:

Sounds like you have it in syncro mode, that is just an operational mode which can be disabled/enabled through the junction box button. I run mine manually where each lever works derailleurs independently like a regular bike. You could probably disable that mode, unplug the front derailleur and it would just work as 1x11.

Edited by Gareth79 on Monday 5th September 16:48

Will give that a try. Can you do all the programming from the control box screen or do you need to plug into a PC?
Have seen E-Tube mentioned although that seems to mainly apply to syncro mode??

Thanks........from DI2 noob

You definitely need either the PC software (and plug the charger in), or if it has the Bluetooth adapter then the mobile app is a bit easier to use. It's worth running if only to check that the firmware on the bike is the latest, just in case there's bug fixes etc.

E-Tube is just the name Shimano give to the family of bike software.

These articles give a good summary of some Di2 stuff:

https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/workshop/shimano-...
https://bettershifting.com/di2-compatibility-mix-u...

[Russ_H]

Gareth79 said:

You definitely need either the PC software (and plug the charger in), or if it has the Bluetooth adapter then the mobile app is a bit easier to use. It's worth running if only to check that the firmware on the bike is the latest, just in case there's bug fixes etc.

E-Tube is just the name Shimano give to the family of bike software.

These articles give a good summary of some Di2 stuff:

https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/workshop/shimano-...
https://bettershifting.com/di2-compatibility-mix-u...

Thanks, bike is completely stripped at the moment waiting for suspension bearings - will have a play when all is back together.
Internal cable routing is a complete faff especially rear damper and front mech, the latter has been stripped out to go 1x11.
The XTR crankset will be donated to my bike