Chain lube options.
Discussion
Factory lube has near mythical status, no idea what it is but other than waxing, it’s the best you’ll ever have on your chain.
The track coach swears by full immersion wax treatments like this
https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/workshop/how-to-w...
The track coach swears by full immersion wax treatments like this
https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/workshop/how-to-w...
After many years of cycling I have found that there are only two types of aftermarket chain lube, either stuff that dries and fails to lubricate, or black and sticky mess, with zero middle ground between them.
My bikes get a squirt of aerosol TF2 before a ride if I remember, or after if I forget.
My bikes get a squirt of aerosol TF2 before a ride if I remember, or after if I forget.
Absolute can of worms
Having fitted a brand new chain last night I can confirm that whatever they are coated with at the factory is the best stuff ever and keeps things nice and quiet for the longest time ever
Sorry, second longest time after whatever secret wax potions my club mates use with fondue sets and several other chains on rotation. Its not that I think they are liars - honest - but splitting chains with quick links on a regular basis just seems to be asking for trouble in my opinion. But their drivelines look clean I have to say......
I run a more conventional ship:
Dry lube in summer and wet lube in winter
Dry is Fenwicks and after a chain scrub and top up last for several hundred kilometres. Unfortunately if it gets rained on it miraculously attracts a huge amount of filthy clag and loses all of its lubricating properties
Wet lube is different. It just gets filthy as soon as I leave the house whatever the conditions but stays "lubey" for a bit longer
So in conclusion whats the best way to lube your bike please
???Tru tension tungsten is what I use. I was a massive fan of NFS too but switched the Tru tension as it's wax based.
Works in the wet and dry and doesn't make a mess of your chain.
Scores well in friction testing, wear testing and it's cheap enough.
Stay away from muc-off. How they get away with calling their lubes "lube" is beyond me. They're about as lubricative as water and regularly score worst in friction and wear tests.
Works in the wet and dry and doesn't make a mess of your chain.
Scores well in friction testing, wear testing and it's cheap enough.
Stay away from muc-off. How they get away with calling their lubes "lube" is beyond me. They're about as lubricative as water and regularly score worst in friction and wear tests.
Squirt wax for me. Always used Fenwicks but as above attracts lots of s
te on the drivetrain in crap weather. Squirt seems to keep gunk to a minimum as you apply it and let it dry before you ride it.
Your chain needs a proper clean before applying ... I probably clean mine (wipe with a citrus based cleaner) after every 2 rides in the dry, maybe fully with a chain cleaner after every 3 rides in the dry. Wet weather then it gets cleaned after each ride.
te on the drivetrain in crap weather. Squirt seems to keep gunk to a minimum as you apply it and let it dry before you ride it. Your chain needs a proper clean before applying ... I probably clean mine (wipe with a citrus based cleaner) after every 2 rides in the dry, maybe fully with a chain cleaner after every 3 rides in the dry. Wet weather then it gets cleaned after each ride.
I have just given up on muc off dry on my Campag equipped bike as it just doesn’t seem to work well, gets dirty too quickly and the chain starts getting noisy - was a brand new Record chain which I dry lubed after the factory finish came off. Have gone back to a thorough degrease and application of Morgan Blue race oil every week for a silent driveline.
The dry lube worked a bit better on my Shimano equipped commuter and works really well on my lads race bmx but just hasn’t worked out with my Campag chains.
The dry lube worked a bit better on my Shimano equipped commuter and works really well on my lads race bmx but just hasn’t worked out with my Campag chains.
If you can be bothered every 200k or so this gets some positive comments: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHr9znwpwmQ
I'm happy with Rocol chain & drive spray & a clean in diesel when mucky.
I'm happy with Rocol chain & drive spray & a clean in diesel when mucky.
JEA1K said:
Squirt wax for me. Always used Fenwicks but as above attracts lots of ste on the drivetrain in crap weather. Squirt seems to keep gunk to a minimum as you apply it and let it dry before you ride it.
Your chain needs a proper clean before applying ... I probably clean mine (wipe with a citrus based cleaner) after every 2 rides in the dry, maybe fully with a chain cleaner after every 3 rides in the dry. Wet weather then it gets cleaned after each ride.
I've just been degreasing a new KMC 11-speed chain (for my road bike) this evening prior to applying 'Squirt' wax lube.te on the drivetrain in crap weather. Squirt seems to keep gunk to a minimum as you apply it and let it dry before you ride it. Your chain needs a proper clean before applying ... I probably clean mine (wipe with a citrus based cleaner) after every 2 rides in the dry, maybe fully with a chain cleaner after every 3 rides in the dry. Wet weather then it gets cleaned after each ride.
Yeah, yeah, "factory lube is better than owt y'll ever put on't' chain yersen", etc, etc, but I really like 'Squirt'. And this time, with new gumwall/tanwall Goodyear F1 tyres going on, I wanted rid of the black gunk that wet lubes produce right from that first ride. Wilko do a great aerosol degreaser, so two goes at spraying the chain with that then sloshing it about in a sealed ice cream tub, followed by a hot water and Fairy Liquid wash and a thorough rinse means a (hopefully) grease free chain. That will air dry tonight and I'll apply 'Squirt' to each individual roller a couple of times tomorrow morning (I've pre-sized it too).
Once 'Squirt' has been applied to a de-greased chain that should be it for cleaning. The wax stops grit and dirt getting into the pins and rollers, any excess should dry enough to get knocked off with a dry brush. There's no oil/grease in the system anymore so no need to further wet clean the chain. Just apply a drop of 'Squirt' to each roller after every few short rides or every long (or wet) ride and Bosh! Job done. It's the initial de-greasing of the chain that takes the effort. It definitely keeps that sloppy black gunk away.
'Squirt' used to get rave reviews too. Recent "group test" reviews of chain lubes I've read suggest that other brands have upped their game and 'Squirt' is no longer top dog, but it's as good as it ever was and I'm glad I have bought back into using it after a couple of seasons of relying on oil based wet lubes which are, to be frank, utter crap. I've bitten the bullet and bought a 500ml 'Workshop Bottle' of the stuff (about £35 from Wiggle) which, based on how long my last 120ml bottle lasted, should see me right for a couple of years. It's going onto the chains of all three serviceable bikes as I work through drive train services on them all.
I use Ford MT75 spec red gearbox oil suitable for the MK3 Granada and Sierras of the late 80's to early 90's. It is more like ATF fluid than sulphur stinky gear oil. Lovely stuff, but anything not too runny will do, not your 0w-30 engine oil.
I bought four litres of the MT75 oil in about 1996 for a gearbox oil change on my then Granada, but never got round to it.
I've got two and a half litres left which should easily see me out.
As for chain lubes, like high end hi-fi, it is subject to massive amounts of 'Emperors new clothes' syndrome. The factory wax is always the best while it lasts and then wet lube, because who can be bothered to re-wax their chain, any medium weight oil is ok. The fabled black sticky mess is a result of not applying wet lube properly. The trick is to apply a goodly amount to every link and roller and then wipe and wipe and wipe and wipe most of it back off. Plenty will remain where it is needed, which is inside. You will have a supremely smooth and quiet drive line with only the gentle and soothing whir of the chain passing through the derailleur jockey wheels (don't forget to lubricate them as well every now and then).
But each to their own, and own methods.
I bought four litres of the MT75 oil in about 1996 for a gearbox oil change on my then Granada, but never got round to it.
I've got two and a half litres left which should easily see me out.
As for chain lubes, like high end hi-fi, it is subject to massive amounts of 'Emperors new clothes' syndrome. The factory wax is always the best while it lasts and then wet lube, because who can be bothered to re-wax their chain, any medium weight oil is ok. The fabled black sticky mess is a result of not applying wet lube properly. The trick is to apply a goodly amount to every link and roller and then wipe and wipe and wipe and wipe most of it back off. Plenty will remain where it is needed, which is inside. You will have a supremely smooth and quiet drive line with only the gentle and soothing whir of the chain passing through the derailleur jockey wheels (don't forget to lubricate them as well every now and then).
But each to their own, and own methods.
colin_p said:
I use Ford MT75 spec red gearbox oil suitable for the MK3 Granada and Sierras of the late 80's to early 90's. It is more like ATF fluid than sulphur stinky gear oil. Lovely stuff, but anything not too runny will do, not your 0w-30 engine oil.
I bought four litres of the MT75 oil in about 1996 for a gearbox oil change on my then Granada, but never got round to it.
I've got two and a half litres left which should easily see me out.
As for chain lubes, like high end hi-fi, it is subject to massive amounts of 'Emperors new clothes' syndrome. The factory wax is always the best while it lasts and then wet lube, because who can be bothered to re-wax their chain, any medium weight oil is ok. The fabled black sticky mess is a result of not applying wet lube properly. The trick is to apply a goodly amount to every link and roller and then wipe and wipe and wipe and wipe most of it back off. Plenty will remain where it is needed, which is inside. You will have a supremely smooth and quiet drive line with only the gentle and soothing whir of the chain passing through the derailleur jockey wheels (don't forget to lubricate them as well every now and then).
But each to their own, and own methods.
The hifi analogy is apt for a lot of bike stuff.I bought four litres of the MT75 oil in about 1996 for a gearbox oil change on my then Granada, but never got round to it.
I've got two and a half litres left which should easily see me out.
As for chain lubes, like high end hi-fi, it is subject to massive amounts of 'Emperors new clothes' syndrome. The factory wax is always the best while it lasts and then wet lube, because who can be bothered to re-wax their chain, any medium weight oil is ok. The fabled black sticky mess is a result of not applying wet lube properly. The trick is to apply a goodly amount to every link and roller and then wipe and wipe and wipe and wipe most of it back off. Plenty will remain where it is needed, which is inside. You will have a supremely smooth and quiet drive line with only the gentle and soothing whir of the chain passing through the derailleur jockey wheels (don't forget to lubricate them as well every now and then).
But each to their own, and own methods.
I generally use Finish Line wet as it works and isn't insanely expensive. But I imagine that the margin they earn for effectively taking the stuff out of a big barrel and putting it into small bottles with a nice label on is substantial.
II have used engine oil (15-40) in extremis in the past, and while it gave a v smooth result it did fly off the chain and coat the wheel and stays in sticky muck.
Occasionally I wonder about DIY chain waxing, and have to have a stern word with myself;)
Revolubes here, it's great as long as you do the initial preparation thoroughly. I've now got it on 5 bikes. I haven't had to clean any jockey wheels in over 2 years.
The hardtail's chain has lasted over 1,000 miles so far on this stuff; previously I was lucky to get 300 miles out of a chain, riding exactly the same local sandy trails and using Finish Line (wet and dry versions depending on the season).
The hardtail's chain has lasted over 1,000 miles so far on this stuff; previously I was lucky to get 300 miles out of a chain, riding exactly the same local sandy trails and using Finish Line (wet and dry versions depending on the season).
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