Upgrade chainring and cassette or service current
Discussion
Have a 2012(I think, roughly) Specialized Secteur “triple” (I think that what they called the 3 cog chainring). Overall, love the bike, still in good condition and size wise just right for my 6’4” frame.
Doing 1 or 2 evening cycles a week, typically 25/35 miles, hilly in some places (Horsham, South Downs, Balcome/Ardingly and in between is where I cycle).
Anyway, currently struggles to get into lowest cog and sometimes slips in lower gears too so will get it adjusted/serviced so all working OK.
HOWEVER, that made me think chain/cassette is likely worn (would explain slipping) and need replacing anyway. So maybe time to consider what parts to replace with including chainring (to a 2 cog one - I assume that will lower weight)?
80% of the time I am on middle cog on chainring, then for slow/steeper hills down to smallest one. Rarely use largest cog, only really for those rare 30mph+ downhill moments
Ideally I’d like a lower lowest gear for those very steep hills. Top gears are fine for fastest downhills (think I can hit 38/40 but no more - not that I want to go faster, 48 year old legs prob maxing out)
Anyway what would people here advise in my position? I’m not interested in spending hundreds for negligible/small gains!
Doing 1 or 2 evening cycles a week, typically 25/35 miles, hilly in some places (Horsham, South Downs, Balcome/Ardingly and in between is where I cycle).
Anyway, currently struggles to get into lowest cog and sometimes slips in lower gears too so will get it adjusted/serviced so all working OK.
HOWEVER, that made me think chain/cassette is likely worn (would explain slipping) and need replacing anyway. So maybe time to consider what parts to replace with including chainring (to a 2 cog one - I assume that will lower weight)?
80% of the time I am on middle cog on chainring, then for slow/steeper hills down to smallest one. Rarely use largest cog, only really for those rare 30mph+ downhill moments
Ideally I’d like a lower lowest gear for those very steep hills. Top gears are fine for fastest downhills (think I can hit 38/40 but no more - not that I want to go faster, 48 year old legs prob maxing out
)Anyway what would people here advise in my position? I’m not interested in spending hundreds for negligible/small gains!
Get it inspected and adjusted first. That will establish whether the chainring is worn. For reference I have got a 2009 specialized tricross still on its original chainrings, and I average about 1500 miles a year, so they don't wear out fast!
Swapping to a double chainring from a triple will need new cranks, new left hand shifter, and possibly a new front mech - and the cost of that is likely to be more than the value of the bike
Swapping to a double chainring from a triple will need new cranks, new left hand shifter, and possibly a new front mech - and the cost of that is likely to be more than the value of the bike
Assuming at 6'4" you're not just a 60kg whippet and you're on the original chain/cassette/chainset, the chain will have stretched and will certainly need replacing. Which means the cassette and chainrings will be worn and probably won't mate that will to a new chain. Always cheaper to change chains more frequently than cassettes and chainrings/sets.
If you can still get replacement chainrings for the triple, then rings, chain cassette and retain the set up which works for you.
Moving to a double/compact is an option but will be more expensive. Chainset, chain, cassette ... perhaps a new rear mech if you want say a 34t on the rear to compensate for the lack of the triple on the front. A compact will be 50/34 so with a 11-34t on the back, you should be able to climb anything!
If you can still get replacement chainrings for the triple, then rings, chain cassette and retain the set up which works for you.
Moving to a double/compact is an option but will be more expensive. Chainset, chain, cassette ... perhaps a new rear mech if you want say a 34t on the rear to compensate for the lack of the triple on the front. A compact will be 50/34 so with a 11-34t on the back, you should be able to climb anything!
From a MTB view point:
It's generally fairly clear to me when a chain ring is worn to the point where replacement is needed as the teeth take on a hooked appearance.
I always replace chainrings (or more usually just the middle one), chain and cassette together for trouble free action. I tried to skimp once and left the rear cassette but the new chain didn't like it and kept riding over the old cassette on certain gears.
Not sure if they are still available but I used to find Blackburn rings were the best for length of life.
It's generally fairly clear to me when a chain ring is worn to the point where replacement is needed as the teeth take on a hooked appearance.
I always replace chainrings (or more usually just the middle one), chain and cassette together for trouble free action. I tried to skimp once and left the rear cassette but the new chain didn't like it and kept riding over the old cassette on certain gears.
Not sure if they are still available but I used to find Blackburn rings were the best for length of life.
I've got a Specialised Cirrus from the early 90s still on its original triple chainset. It's from the time when a hybrid was a dropped handlebar bike with a mountain bike chainset, so it has ovalised rings, so I keep it for nostalgia as much as anything.
If I were you I would change the chain and cassette, get it setup well, and hopefully that will return it all to smooth operation. You might get that done for 80 quid if you can get bargain parts.
If that doesn't work you'll need new chain rings, which could be hard to get.
If you want to switch it to a double at the front, that will cost the most, and then you have to decide if that is cost effective compared to a new bike or maybe a lucky ebay second hand purchase.
If I were you I would change the chain and cassette, get it setup well, and hopefully that will return it all to smooth operation. You might get that done for 80 quid if you can get bargain parts.
If that doesn't work you'll need new chain rings, which could be hard to get.
If you want to switch it to a double at the front, that will cost the most, and then you have to decide if that is cost effective compared to a new bike or maybe a lucky ebay second hand purchase.
Thanks all, wasn't sure how simple or not replacing the chaingring was. Sounds not simple/cheap so will keep that as is.
New local bike place so took it there today, turns out cable was faulty (bent at weird angle where it enters connector near head tube. That explains the issues shifting.
The chain is worn/stretched though, so will prob get that sorted later.
Currently an 8 speed (not sure how many teeth) so was thinking, can that be replaced with cassette that has a lower 1st gear for those steeper hills? Is the number of teeth a guide to how low or not the gearing is? I see 11-28, 11-30, 11-32, 12-35 etc.
New local bike place so took it there today, turns out cable was faulty (bent at weird angle where it enters connector near head tube. That explains the issues shifting.
The chain is worn/stretched though, so will prob get that sorted later.
Currently an 8 speed (not sure how many teeth) so was thinking, can that be replaced with cassette that has a lower 1st gear for those steeper hills? Is the number of teeth a guide to how low or not the gearing is? I see 11-28, 11-30, 11-32, 12-35 etc.
Looks like a 12-25 on there currently BTW
I think following page is correct specs. Well it's a 2013 triple... 61 size.
http://www.bikeroar.com/products/specialized/secte...
I think following page is correct specs. Well it's a 2013 triple... 61 size.
http://www.bikeroar.com/products/specialized/secte...
Dracoro said:
Thanks all, wasn't sure how simple or not replacing the chaingring was. Sounds not simple/cheap so will keep that as is.
New local bike place so took it there today, turns out cable was faulty (bent at weird angle where it enters connector near head tube. That explains the issues shifting.
The chain is worn/stretched though, so will prob get that sorted later.
Currently an 8 speed (not sure how many teeth) so was thinking, can that be replaced with cassette that has a lower 1st gear for those steeper hills? Is the number of teeth a guide to how low or not the gearing is? I see 11-28, 11-30, 11-32, 12-35 etc.
Good that yours got fixed with just a new cable.New local bike place so took it there today, turns out cable was faulty (bent at weird angle where it enters connector near head tube. That explains the issues shifting.
The chain is worn/stretched though, so will prob get that sorted later.
Currently an 8 speed (not sure how many teeth) so was thinking, can that be replaced with cassette that has a lower 1st gear for those steeper hills? Is the number of teeth a guide to how low or not the gearing is? I see 11-28, 11-30, 11-32, 12-35 etc.
My 'Frankenbike' runs 3 x 9 gearing and has recently had a new chainset. Chainrings for it were hard to source as it was older generation Shimano stuff. My biggest ring was a 52 tooth thing, can't recall exactly where the middle and small rings sat. So I've gone from an old 9-speed Shimano 105 chainset to a new Shimano Claris (FCR2030E090) chainset. That's intended for 8-speed but seems to run OK with the 9-speed derailleur. Trouble was, that meant it needed a new Bottom Bracket too. So I also bought a Shimano Tiagra (BBRS500B) bottom bracket. The new chainset has 50t-39t-30t rings, so gearing is lower than with the old chainset. I also needed a new chain as I'd damaged the one that was on the bike, but the cassette survived.
The bill for the work was...
(March 2022 prices at my local bike shop)
Claris chainset @ £85.49
Tiagra bottom bracket @ £19.79
SRAM 9-speed chain @ £15.30
Workshop labour @ £30.00
Total = £150.58
As for cassettes? Mine's an 11-34 tooth number. Good low gears available to me from that. '11' is the smallest sprocket but the biggest gear. Some fancy/expensive cassettes will go down to a 10 tooth sprocket but you can safely discount those. You say yours is a 12-25 tooth cassette. That has a slightly lower "big" gear, but if you're not running out of high gears you should probably stay at a 12-tooth sprocket for your smallest sprocket/biggest gear if you can, although cassettes with 11 tooth sprockets seem to be more common . Definitely look at more teeth for your biggest sprocket/lowest gear though. At least a 12-28 tooth cassette will give you a lower gear than that which you already have. I get away with a 34 tooth low gear because my bike has a Shimano Deore mountain bike derailleur at the back which can cope with a bigger cassette. As here...
Daveyraveygravey said:
As the cassette gets bigger, you might need a rear derailleur with a longer cage.
...you may well need a derailleur with a longer cage if you go to a 12-30 tooth (or bigger) cassette. That's because you need to keep the chain line (and the derailleur pulley wheels) clear of the largest sprockets on the cassette to avoid tearing the rear end to pieces. Shimano do publish compatibility guidance but you might be as well asking a local shop just how big a cassette your current derailleur will cope with. Some say that Shimano's compatibility advice is on the conservative side anyway, and they'll happily go outside the stated limits.And that worn/stretched chain? Sort that ASAP. If it's gone, it's gone. Keep on using it and you will definitely prematurely wear the chainrings up front. I'd bet on you already needing a fresh cassette anyway though. Change a chain early enough - check with a wear indicator...
https://www.squarewheels.biz/birzman-chain-wear-in...
...and you may get away with replacing the chain only. If the wear is too far gone on the old chain, the new one won't play nice with the old cassette. So in future save yourself the price of a cassette with every chain and invest £7.00 or so in that indicator tool. Drop it into the chain regularly and replace the chain quickly when worn.
The good thing about 8 speed stuff? It's usually cheap. Bikester have this cassette... https://www.bikester.co.uk/shimano-altus-cs-hg31-c... ...in 11-30 tooth size (you may be able to get away with that) for £9.99. Definitely don't spend more than £20 online for one. Chains are less than £10 online too. A quick Google showed prices ranging from £6.76 to £9.99
A quick Google again threw up Bikester as a source for a Shimano claris rear derailleur...
https://www.bikester.co.uk/shimano-claris-rd-r2000...
...for £22.99. Medium and short cage options available, medium takes up to an 11-34 tooth cassette, short takes up to 11-32 teeth. Obviously if you're buying through your local shop expect to pay more than these prices, but as you can see most of the parts aren't crazy money for 8-speed stuff. Chains and cassettes I'll do myself, but I put the bike into my local shop for the chainset as for the sake of £30 it wasn't worth the swearing when I (would inevitably have) discovered that I didn't have some of the tools needed for the bottom bracket swap.
Thanks all.
Local bike shop fixed the cable so 1st thing is I am back up and running (well, cycling).
They said the rear derailleur will work with a 11-28 8 speed (currently 12-25). So they can replace cassette/chain along with a service (may as well get rest of bike looked at anyway). As mentioned above, 8 speeds are cheap so about £22 for cassette and £20 or so for chain.
Have to wait a couple of weeks though but but sure chain etc. will be OK until then, as I alternate cycles with my MTB, I may do more on that until road bike done.
Local bike shop fixed the cable so 1st thing is I am back up and running (well, cycling
).They said the rear derailleur will work with a 11-28 8 speed (currently 12-25). So they can replace cassette/chain along with a service (may as well get rest of bike looked at anyway). As mentioned above, 8 speeds are cheap so about £22 for cassette and £20 or so for chain.
Have to wait a couple of weeks though but but sure chain etc. will be OK until then, as I alternate cycles with my MTB, I may do more on that until road bike done.
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