Help with converting my bike
Discussion
In my younger days I was a keen cyclist, but cars came along and that was the end of that.
I have the bike pictured below, I’d considering converting it to electric (front wheel conversion as the rear hub is geared and it’s a back peddle brake)
I’m trying to use the car less for things like the nursery run and popping to my folks
I don’t want to spend that much, but at the same time I want to buy something that isn’t a Chinese one off special with no backup in terms of parts
The baby seat is staying for a year or so, so ideally a frame mounted battery (although I could remove the rear pannier rack that is lurking)
Or is it better to sell my bike and buy something secondhand?
Any top tips or guidance is much appreciated
I have the bike pictured below, I’d considering converting it to electric (front wheel conversion as the rear hub is geared and it’s a back peddle brake)
I’m trying to use the car less for things like the nursery run and popping to my folks
I don’t want to spend that much, but at the same time I want to buy something that isn’t a Chinese one off special with no backup in terms of parts
The baby seat is staying for a year or so, so ideally a frame mounted battery (although I could remove the rear pannier rack that is lurking)
Or is it better to sell my bike and buy something secondhand?
Any top tips or guidance is much appreciated
Edited by Spare tyre on Sunday 19th June 16:00
I did a cheap conversion using the Voilamart front wheel kit and battery attached to a 10 year old cheapo bike I had in the shed. A couple of years ago this was £300 for the lot but it is a bit more like £400+ now. https://www.voilamart.co.uk/sports-outdoor/voilama...
This was easy to do, works well and I still use it. If you are not going racing the rim brakes are OK, but you need to keep them in good condition.
This was easy to do, works well and I still use it. If you are not going racing the rim brakes are OK, but you need to keep them in good condition.
Edited by GT6k on Sunday 19th June 18:41
take-good-care-of-the-forest-dewey said:
shouldbworking said:
I wouldn't convert that - rim brakes with the extra weight of a child seat and a battery / motor wouldn't be a confidence inspiring ride.
We used to race downhill with V brakes in the early 90s. They'll be fine.
GT6k said:
And the forks will be fine with a typical 250w motor. If 15Nm torque was going to rip the forks off even your rim brakes would fold them up.
Sorry but that is poor advice, different forces involved in braking to running a motor in the hub, the torque from the motor will rip the dropouts apart.I have seen this happen so not I would not recommend running a hub motor on these forks.
I stuck a cheap Chinese rear hub kit on my bike just over a year ago. Went cheap as I was not sure it would encourage me to ride more as it very hilly round here. Now covered over 4000 miles on it since conversion. If i knew what I know now I would have spent more and bought a mid drive setup.
Hub drives do tend to loosen spokes, and they have no gearing so sometimes hill climbs can be a bit tricky. Although i can easily get up 25% inclines in top power mode. If you need to find space for a separate controller it can be tricky on small bike. I have not found a reason to upgrade to mid drive yet.
Hub drives do tend to loosen spokes, and they have no gearing so sometimes hill climbs can be a bit tricky. Although i can easily get up 25% inclines in top power mode. If you need to find space for a separate controller it can be tricky on small bike. I have not found a reason to upgrade to mid drive yet.
wpa1975 said:
GT6k said:
And the forks will be fine with a typical 250w motor. If 15Nm torque was going to rip the forks off even your rim brakes would fold them up.
Sorry but that is poor advice, different forces involved in braking to running a motor in the hub, the torque from the motor will rip the dropouts apart.I have seen this happen so not I would not recommend running a hub motor on these forks.
But was it a low powered 15Nm torque motor that ripped out those dropouts? I have seen it reported with 1kW geared motors but a more typical 250W torque of 15Nm is, to use an old reference 'not enough power to pull a sailor off your sister' (top marks for anyone who can name the rally driver who said that)
The front wheel drive thing is true but I also found on very rough stuff that it made it easier for the front wheel to climb out of ruts and at the very limit of traction having both wheels driven is advantageous.
The front wheel drive thing is true but I also found on very rough stuff that it made it easier for the front wheel to climb out of ruts and at the very limit of traction having both wheels driven is advantageous.
Gareth79 said:
wpa1975 said:
GT6k said:
And the forks will be fine with a typical 250w motor. If 15Nm torque was going to rip the forks off even your rim brakes would fold them up.
Sorry but that is poor advice, different forces involved in braking to running a motor in the hub, the torque from the motor will rip the dropouts apart.I have seen this happen so not I would not recommend running a hub motor on these forks.
They soon break traction on standing water etc
Spare tyre said:
Thanks all, some food for thought
I like the look of the mid drive
As my gears are in the rear hub, do I have to consider anything in terms of fitting a mid motor, I’m guessing I just change as normal
The hub is also a backwards pedal job, ie if I pedal backward it acts like a brake
I know nothing, but can you tell us what make/model the rear hub is? I like the look of the mid drive
As my gears are in the rear hub, do I have to consider anything in terms of fitting a mid motor, I’m guessing I just change as normal
The hub is also a backwards pedal job, ie if I pedal backward it acts like a brake
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