New Bike - running in issues or not?
Discussion
I've just purchased a new Hybrid and have ridden about 10 miles on it (It's a mid range Hybrid. Shimano components)
So far I have been finding the gear changes to be a little clunky/mechanical. It sometimes sounds almost like it is thinking of going for the next gear. I have also noticed that if you are in the top gearing (it's a 1 x 10 setup) and putting the power down but suddenly stop accelerating you get what feels like chain slap (the chain makes contact with the upper side of the chainstay). Is this normal on this type of setup and just one of the downside of tiny rear cog runnign at cross angle with single main chainring?
I did pop back to the bike shop and they said gearing is OK but I note they didn't actually ride it.
Typical on a new bike - just let it bed for more miles or maybe more to it?
So far I have been finding the gear changes to be a little clunky/mechanical. It sometimes sounds almost like it is thinking of going for the next gear. I have also noticed that if you are in the top gearing (it's a 1 x 10 setup) and putting the power down but suddenly stop accelerating you get what feels like chain slap (the chain makes contact with the upper side of the chainstay). Is this normal on this type of setup and just one of the downside of tiny rear cog runnign at cross angle with single main chainring?
I did pop back to the bike shop and they said gearing is OK but I note they didn't actually ride it.
Typical on a new bike - just let it bed for more miles or maybe more to it?
Edited by Kiwi79 on Saturday 11th June 16:58
Cable housings tend to seat into the end fittings with use on a new bike. This can throw out the indexing. It's a simple adjustment that doesn't require tools to bring it back into line. Just use the thumb wheel adjuster on the rear derailleur, a quarter turn at a time until you hit the sweet spot.
It's up to you if you want to take it back to the shop or do it yourself. It's a skill worth learning as you will probably need to tweak it every few weeks if you are riding regularly. I like the "Park Tools" YouTube videos.
Difficult to comment on the quality of the change and the chain slap. I've found the change action does ease up a little as new components bed in. Also, the rider tends to "learn the bike" and get better at easing the pressure on the pedals when making the change.
Hope this helps. However, if you're not happy, take it back and get the Tech to ride the bike.
It's up to you if you want to take it back to the shop or do it yourself. It's a skill worth learning as you will probably need to tweak it every few weeks if you are riding regularly. I like the "Park Tools" YouTube videos.
Difficult to comment on the quality of the change and the chain slap. I've found the change action does ease up a little as new components bed in. Also, the rider tends to "learn the bike" and get better at easing the pressure on the pedals when making the change.
Hope this helps. However, if you're not happy, take it back and get the Tech to ride the bike.
Master Bean said:
You should have a little lever on the rear derailleur. This is the clutch. If it is engaged it keeps the chain tight. You disengage it to remove the back wheel.
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