Road bike and clip ons vs. TT bike vs. Tri bike
Discussion
I'm a 48 year old cycling and beer enthusiast with a creaky back and unshaved legs, and I've been doing some club TTs. On my last 10.22 mile course I'm doing a time of 29.32 at 21.3 mph (the extra 0.22 was me stopping Strava a bit slow!) on a Canyon Endurace road bike in standard spec with standard drop bars.
I want to go a bit faster because competitive, and I fancy a bike dedicated to TTs because shiny/n+1. I've tried some clip ons on my Canyon bike as a test...plus points are it's definitely quicker on the flat, but because when I'm on the extensions I'm nowhere near the gears I'm often in the wrong one and it's a faff to change. Also, clearly my saddle etc needs a tweak, and I don't want to mess around with the position too much as most riding will be in normal road mode anyway.
I understand that a proper TT bike is more aggressive, with a lower position and hands closer together compared to a tri bike, which is designed to still give a lot of aero benefits but not completely knacker the rider out as they still have some running to do.
I've been offered a carbon Quintana Roo Tri bike for what seems like a very reasonable outlay (well under £500) and I'm thinking this might be the way forward. It seems like a good halfway house, I'll get the shifters up on the tri bars which will make me faster than being on the clip-ons in the wrong gear, but the slightly less aggressive position might be a bit kinder to my dad bod than a full on TT bike (bear in mind my Canyon is endurance geometry, not full race). Also, for that kind of money I don't mind that it only comes out the shed a few times a year. Chuck in a cheap PX TT lid (fairly conservative design, not a big pointy thing), a bit of Zwift time and less enthusiasm for beer and I hope to get faster.
Is this a sensible option?
I want to go a bit faster because competitive, and I fancy a bike dedicated to TTs because shiny/n+1. I've tried some clip ons on my Canyon bike as a test...plus points are it's definitely quicker on the flat, but because when I'm on the extensions I'm nowhere near the gears I'm often in the wrong one and it's a faff to change. Also, clearly my saddle etc needs a tweak, and I don't want to mess around with the position too much as most riding will be in normal road mode anyway.
I understand that a proper TT bike is more aggressive, with a lower position and hands closer together compared to a tri bike, which is designed to still give a lot of aero benefits but not completely knacker the rider out as they still have some running to do.
I've been offered a carbon Quintana Roo Tri bike for what seems like a very reasonable outlay (well under £500) and I'm thinking this might be the way forward. It seems like a good halfway house, I'll get the shifters up on the tri bars which will make me faster than being on the clip-ons in the wrong gear, but the slightly less aggressive position might be a bit kinder to my dad bod than a full on TT bike (bear in mind my Canyon is endurance geometry, not full race). Also, for that kind of money I don't mind that it only comes out the shed a few times a year. Chuck in a cheap PX TT lid (fairly conservative design, not a big pointy thing), a bit of Zwift time and less enthusiasm for beer and I hope to get faster.
Is this a sensible option?
The major difference between TT bikes and Tri bikes are UCI rules - 3:1 width to length rules of surfaces etc, these have recently been clarified / simplified I believe - but there are still a fair few.
an older model now - but the rim brake Cervelo P5 came in two versions - the P5-3 was the UCI legal version and the P5-6 the triathlon version, the major difference being the front fork and covers on brakes etc.
Triathlon has a lot less rules leading to more none conventional designs and much more flexibility on position.
The fit is what defines how much of a mess you are when you get off - and your own flexibility / core strength / need for aero defines that really.
Someone will be along in a minute to confirm but I think timetriallingforum.co.uk is a pretty good resource.
an older model now - but the rim brake Cervelo P5 came in two versions - the P5-3 was the UCI legal version and the P5-6 the triathlon version, the major difference being the front fork and covers on brakes etc.
Triathlon has a lot less rules leading to more none conventional designs and much more flexibility on position.
The fit is what defines how much of a mess you are when you get off - and your own flexibility / core strength / need for aero defines that really.
Someone will be along in a minute to confirm but I think timetriallingforum.co.uk is a pretty good resource.
I respectfully disagree with the above. The position you can achieve on a road bike with clip ons is miles off what can be achieved on a TT / Tri-bike (been there, done that).
Personally, I went for a Tri rig (a Cube Aerium SLT) because not being UCI governed means they aren’t compromised by regs. The UCI compliant Aerium TT bike isn’t as fast as the Aerium Tri bike. I race 24H time trials so even a little difference makes a big difference. The cockpit of the Tri is more adjustable for the same reason - which makes it better for getting exactly the right position.
I also happen to think the Tri version looks cooler and whatever anyone says, that’s important.
The Giant trinity is an excellent TT bike and widely available. Start with a less aggressive position - wide and high pads - gradually move them in and down as you get used to it.
It’s also a whole new world of tech to enjoy
If you can stretch to a TT / Tri bike with di2, the benefits are a lot more real than on a road bike, but if you’re dabbling, don’t bother. You can always upgrade later.
Personally, I went for a Tri rig (a Cube Aerium SLT) because not being UCI governed means they aren’t compromised by regs. The UCI compliant Aerium TT bike isn’t as fast as the Aerium Tri bike. I race 24H time trials so even a little difference makes a big difference. The cockpit of the Tri is more adjustable for the same reason - which makes it better for getting exactly the right position.
I also happen to think the Tri version looks cooler and whatever anyone says, that’s important.
The Giant trinity is an excellent TT bike and widely available. Start with a less aggressive position - wide and high pads - gradually move them in and down as you get used to it.
It’s also a whole new world of tech to enjoy
If you can stretch to a TT / Tri bike with di2, the benefits are a lot more real than on a road bike, but if you’re dabbling, don’t bother. You can always upgrade later.
keith2.2 said:
I respectfully disagree with the above. The position you can achieve on a road bike with clip ons is miles off what can be achieved on a TT / Tri-bike (been there, done that).
Personally, I went for a Tri rig (a Cube Aerium SLT) because not being UCI governed means they aren’t compromised by regs. The UCI compliant Aerium TT bike isn’t as fast as the Aerium Tri bike. I race 24H time trials so even a little difference makes a big difference. The cockpit of the Tri is more adjustable for the same reason - which makes it better for getting exactly the right position.
I also happen to think the Tri version looks cooler and whatever anyone says, that’s important.
The Giant trinity is an excellent TT bike and widely available. Start with a less aggressive position - wide and high pads - gradually move them in and down as you get used to it.
It’s also a whole new world of tech to enjoy
If you can stretch to a TT / Tri bike with di2, the benefits are a lot more real than on a road bike, but if you’re dabbling, don’t bother. You can always upgrade later.
Agreed the position is an improvement,along with pointy helmet,trip socks etc,but if your only just breaking 'evens',I'd just get on riding the bike rather than look for marginal lol gains,plus the full TT rig these days looks bit of a tool,peak TT imho Personally, I went for a Tri rig (a Cube Aerium SLT) because not being UCI governed means they aren’t compromised by regs. The UCI compliant Aerium TT bike isn’t as fast as the Aerium Tri bike. I race 24H time trials so even a little difference makes a big difference. The cockpit of the Tri is more adjustable for the same reason - which makes it better for getting exactly the right position.
I also happen to think the Tri version looks cooler and whatever anyone says, that’s important.
The Giant trinity is an excellent TT bike and widely available. Start with a less aggressive position - wide and high pads - gradually move them in and down as you get used to it.
It’s also a whole new world of tech to enjoy
If you can stretch to a TT / Tri bike with di2, the benefits are a lot more real than on a road bike, but if you’re dabbling, don’t bother. You can always upgrade later.
While riders of yester year did go quick, they also rode courses we don't now and many of them had questionable tactics for getting quick times, including the one posted above, but that's a story for other forums 
I'm not a scientist but aero obviously becomes a larger issue the faster you go, at 20mph it isn't really worth getting a specific bike IMO, the benefit will be small and it's a load of effort and such and they're horrible bikes to ride on anywhere other than big roads where stopping isn't likely.
At 30mph lets say I'd have said that you'd probably be giving up around 60-90 secs on a road set up vs a fully fledged TT set up. I only ever did a couple of events with clip ons but it was certainly faster than not but did involve a lot of tinkering with the bike to make it work and it felt nothing like what the TT bike did.
I'm not a scientist but aero obviously becomes a larger issue the faster you go, at 20mph it isn't really worth getting a specific bike IMO, the benefit will be small and it's a load of effort and such and they're horrible bikes to ride on anywhere other than big roads where stopping isn't likely.
At 30mph lets say I'd have said that you'd probably be giving up around 60-90 secs on a road set up vs a fully fledged TT set up. I only ever did a couple of events with clip ons but it was certainly faster than not but did involve a lot of tinkering with the bike to make it work and it felt nothing like what the TT bike did.
you thought about getting back on the TT bike Rob now that advances in position / aero / kit have moved on?
how much time you reckon you can buy compared to your old position / kit?
edit: CTT says your last result was a casual 18.20 on P881R in september 17. So call it 5 year old kit
how much time you reckon you can buy compared to your old position / kit?
edit: CTT says your last result was a casual 18.20 on P881R in september 17. So call it 5 year old kit
Edited by z4RRSchris on Tuesday 7th June 14:11
okgo said:
I'm not a scientist but aero obviously becomes a larger issue the faster you go, at 20mph it isn't really worth getting a specific bike IMO, the benefit will be small and it's a load of effort and such and they're horrible bikes to ride on anywhere other than big roads where stopping isn't likely.
At 30mph lets say I'd have said that you'd probably be giving up around 60-90 secs on a road set up vs a fully fledged TT set up. I only ever did a couple of events with clip ons but it was certainly faster than not but did involve a lot of tinkering with the bike to make it work and it felt nothing like what the TT bike did.
Yikes. So if I totally cane it I can manage just over 20mph average over a 10 mile course, but I would not have a hope in hell on getting anywhere near 30mph apart from downhill. So are you saying it's basically pointless for me to get a TT bike?At 30mph lets say I'd have said that you'd probably be giving up around 60-90 secs on a road set up vs a fully fledged TT set up. I only ever did a couple of events with clip ons but it was certainly faster than not but did involve a lot of tinkering with the bike to make it work and it felt nothing like what the TT bike did.
Having ridden my road bike with clip ons, and compared that to a very short test ride on a TT bike, I find it much easier to swap from aero to "normal" position on the TT bike, plus with the TT bike I can change gears and keep my cadence in my sweet spot without having to slowly change position as I do on the road bike.
So you've now got me thinking I might just be better off sticking with the road bike, removing the clip ons, and just make sure I'm in the right gear and churning out the watts! I guess I was really hoping the aero gains would be better on a proper TT bike...
I think that's the size of it. You will go quicker, but it's a lot of cash to spend while you're still early in the journey.
Bluntly, almost anyone able bodied can train to be going a lot quicker than 20mph (I think I remember some renowned professor (coggan probably) saying almost anyone should be able to exceed 3 w/kg with training), it might feel better to get a few more mph on the roadbike before spending on the new rig, there is much more of a rush riding at high 20's than there is 21mph!
Bluntly, almost anyone able bodied can train to be going a lot quicker than 20mph (I think I remember some renowned professor (coggan probably) saying almost anyone should be able to exceed 3 w/kg with training), it might feel better to get a few more mph on the roadbike before spending on the new rig, there is much more of a rush riding at high 20's than there is 21mph!
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