Which tyres MTB race, gravel? Very low level!

[Duke Caboom]

Hi,

I have recently competed in my first Duathlon and have another one for next weekend. There are only 7-8km cycle on Forestry Commission fire break tracks – so mostly fairly tightly packed gravel. Some grass and sandy bits, some slightly muddy sections. Not technical.
My bike is an old Fuji Taho and in the last event I just pumped my “urban” (ie virtually treadless) tyres up hard. Weather was dry so I got away with it and was surprisingly close to the fast people, even though they have gravel bikes. However, I did definitely feel the need to be cautious on some of the faster bends and some of the muddier sections, though might just be cos I’m not as young as I was. Talk amongst fellow competitors was that it is often wetter and muddier.

So I’d like a set of tyres that don’t increase friction too much but will feel a bit more secure. Not too expensive either. 26”
What would you recommend?

Thanks

Now that I’ve written as this out I think I am over thinking it.

[take-good-care-of-the-forest-dewey]

What tyres are currently fitted?

You night get away with just a knobbly front.

I've used maxxis minion semi-slick rears all year round in the past.

If you do need new tyres, I'd look at rocket Ron font and racing ralf rear (Schwalbe).

Softest compound front, hardest rear.

ETA just saw the distances. Might just be as easy to run the muddy bits if it's mostly forest Road.

[Duke Caboom]

Thanks for the reply. Helped with my thinking and work out what the terminology means.

I think I want "fast rolling xc" tyres for now.

Are those tyre changing "plyers" that keep popping up on my phone any good? I haven't used a tyre lever for 30 years bit I remember them as being a pain!

[Some Gump]

I've only ever used levers, imo thats what you should stick with because you're going to have them in your bike toolkit if you puncture on a trail, so you're going to have to learn to use them no matter what!

The trick to easy tyre removal is to pinch the tyre all the way round to get the bead off the rim and let it get into the into the u shaped bed of the rim. This gives room the other side of the wheel to easily come off the other side. This is especially important on e.g. Narrow racing bike tyres which can be evil to remove if you don't make enough slack.

Theres a few youtube vids that explain better than i can, normally GCN and park tools do a decent job explaining things like this, derallieur adjustment, brakes and so on.

[Duke Caboom]

Thanks, I'll look them up.

[CO2000]

Duke Caboom said:

Hi,


So I’d like a set of tyres that don’t increase friction too much but will feel a bit more secure. Not too expensive either. 26”
What would you recommend?

Have a look at these

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/schwalbe-black...

I have them on my old Cube Acid and they are good value all rounder (except heavy mud!)

Edited by CO2000 on Friday 4th February 16:39

[CO2000]

Duke Caboom said:

Hi,


So I’d like a set of tyres that don’t increase friction too much but will feel a bit more secure. Not too expensive either. 26”
What would you recommend?

Have a look at these

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/schwalbe-black...

I have them on my old Cube Acid and they are good value all rounder (except heavy mud!)

Edited by CO2000 on Friday 4th February 16:39

[Duke Caboom]

Tyres ordered. Thanks for all the replies.

[Duke Caboom]

Race went well. It was wetter than forecast and and fairly muddy in places. I was at top-gear-speed on some downhill muddy sections, which I wouldn't have been able do on the old tyres. Particularly useful was ability to change ruts which I didn't dare do on the old tyres, even in the dry.

Didn't notice any increase in rolling resistance, except in one area of relatively soft gravel, but it was difficult to judge.

So great, thanks.

[duckwhistle]

Bit late now for you but I find Schwalbe land cruiser plus very good, they roll well on the firm bits and the grippy bits on the shoulders stop that sideways slip on ruts. My old bones don't like falls and my Redshift shock stem saves my ancient wrists no end.