Discussion
Hi all, it's been a decade since I did any bike maitainance but since my daughter got a mountain for Christmas I'm breaking out my trusty steed that's been in the shed for a few years.
I have a genesis core 40 2011 and the headset is rough and notchy to move. I took the bearings out and although the top one looks OK the bottom one us definitely goosed. It's a caged bearing with 26 bearings with an id of 1.75in. The headset on the bike is tapered so the top bearing is 1.5in id.
What are my options here? Finding a replacement is proving to be a challenge!
I have a genesis core 40 2011 and the headset is rough and notchy to move. I took the bearings out and although the top one looks OK the bottom one us definitely goosed. It's a caged bearing with 26 bearings with an id of 1.75in. The headset on the bike is tapered so the top bearing is 1.5in id.
What are my options here? Finding a replacement is proving to be a challenge!
Headsets are measured on the I.D. of the inner race, so you probably have a 1.5” bottom and a 1.125” top, typical tapered headset sizes.
However, there are different types of headsets available in this size, which differ in how they fit in your frame. Let’s have a photo of the headtube and see if we can figure out what you have, presuming you want to go down the DIY route.
However, there are different types of headsets available in this size, which differ in how they fit in your frame. Let’s have a photo of the headtube and see if we can figure out what you have, presuming you want to go down the DIY route.
Edited by gazza285 on Sunday 2nd January 23:34
According to the spec sheet the headset fitted from new is a FSA Gravity DL, semi-integrated upper / 1.5 inch external lower. Google could be your friend.
If you do go down the DIY route it is not, that a big deal, that is if you are a bit handy on the tools.
The one thing that you do have to ensure is that both the fixed races in the head tube are square to each other and the fixed race on the steerer is also square.
Getting the old races off/out should not be too much of a problem, a suitable drift and hammer, remember softly softly, getting the steerer bearing off may require some forethought.
When replacing the fixed cups they must be square, if not, then you will never be able to correctly adjust the pre load.
There is a special tool for pulling down the cups that ensures squareness
I made up a suitable tool out of a piece of heavy duty threaded rod (1/2” BSF -11mm) with a metal plate at both ends plus a nut at each end. The action of screwing the nuts down the thread pulled the cups into place.
Do one cup at a time making sure all is lined up square before commencing the big squeeze. Note if you start off out of square you will finish up out of square the cup will not auto square up.
To get the fixed cup into place on the steerer a suitable length of pipe slipped over the steerer can be used to drift the bearing into place.
This might not be for the purists but it worked for me, admittedly, at the time all my frames were steel and I was working in an engineering workshop.
If you do go down the DIY route it is not, that a big deal, that is if you are a bit handy on the tools.
The one thing that you do have to ensure is that both the fixed races in the head tube are square to each other and the fixed race on the steerer is also square.
Getting the old races off/out should not be too much of a problem, a suitable drift and hammer, remember softly softly, getting the steerer bearing off may require some forethought.
When replacing the fixed cups they must be square, if not, then you will never be able to correctly adjust the pre load.
There is a special tool for pulling down the cups that ensures squareness
I made up a suitable tool out of a piece of heavy duty threaded rod (1/2” BSF -11mm) with a metal plate at both ends plus a nut at each end. The action of screwing the nuts down the thread pulled the cups into place.
Do one cup at a time making sure all is lined up square before commencing the big squeeze. Note if you start off out of square you will finish up out of square the cup will not auto square up.
To get the fixed cup into place on the steerer a suitable length of pipe slipped over the steerer can be used to drift the bearing into place.
This might not be for the purists but it worked for me, admittedly, at the time all my frames were steel and I was working in an engineering workshop.
I finally got hold of some new vernier calipers to measure the id of the bearing race.
The pictures below show the measurements I have taken, I hope they make sense.
Bottom id= 2.06in
Upper id = 1.44in
I assume that means they're 2in and 1.5in and my measurements are slightly off?
Lower bearing id
Upper bearing id
The pictures below show the measurements I have taken, I hope they make sense.
Bottom id= 2.06in
Upper id = 1.44in
I assume that means they're 2in and 1.5in and my measurements are slightly off?
Lower bearing id
Upper bearing id
It is the ID of the bit that goes on the fork, as in where the lower race is attached to the fork is 1.5", and the hole in the top bearing that slides over the fork is 1.125"
https://canecreek.com/everything-you-need-to-know-...
Or just buy this one, which is the one DB531 found from the spec sheet.
https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/headsets/road-m...
Step away from the vernier.
https://canecreek.com/everything-you-need-to-know-...
Or just buy this one, which is the one DB531 found from the spec sheet.
https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/headsets/road-m...
Step away from the vernier.
gazza285 said:
It is the ID of the bit that goes on the fork, as in where the lower race is attached to the fork is 1.5", and the hole in the top bearing that slides over the fork is 1.125"
https://canecreek.com/everything-you-need-to-know-...
Or just buy this one, which is the one DB531 found from the spec sheet.
https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/headsets/road-m...
Step away from the vernier.
ah, that explains why I'm tying myself up in knots over this! https://canecreek.com/everything-you-need-to-know-...
Or just buy this one, which is the one DB531 found from the spec sheet.
https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/headsets/road-m...
Step away from the vernier.
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