Expected drivetrain life
Discussion
So after having my (gravel) bike about 18 months I took it for a service. The chap at the shop told me that the chain and cassette were worn out (chain was “0.75”) and would need replacing. I thought I’d try and get through the winter with it and replace early next year. The bike had done about 5000 km of mostly road riding and some off road. I’m pretty good at keeping the drivetrain clean and lubricated but I’m not overly particular about it either (the cleaning part, always kept it lubed!)
Fast forward a month and another 600km or so and the chain / sprockets seem to be slipping (I get a “ping” like a rough gear change when I’m just spinning along) so I’m assuming the have reached the end of their useful life?
Is this expected/normal? Should I have changed my chain earlier?
Fast forward a month and another 600km or so and the chain / sprockets seem to be slipping (I get a “ping” like a rough gear change when I’m just spinning along) so I’m assuming the have reached the end of their useful life?
Is this expected/normal? Should I have changed my chain earlier?
A clean drivetrain is a happy drivetrain.
As the poster above mentioned, adding lube to a dirty chain will accelerate wear. I can destroy a chain in <500 miles if its a really wet/muddy winter.
The brand of chain also plays a part. On my mtb its more cost effective to run sram x01 chains than the cheaper ones because whilst the initial cost is expensive it lasts longer than multiple cheap chains thus being the same cost over the life of the chain.
As the poster above mentioned, adding lube to a dirty chain will accelerate wear. I can destroy a chain in <500 miles if its a really wet/muddy winter.
The brand of chain also plays a part. On my mtb its more cost effective to run sram x01 chains than the cheaper ones because whilst the initial cost is expensive it lasts longer than multiple cheap chains thus being the same cost over the life of the chain.
Thanks both,
I have got better at keeping the chain clean, and will as an absolute minimum give the chain a wipe down after each ride. But I’ve not been doing that throughout. I expect some of the dusty gravel rides I have done have been particularly bad for chain wear.
The insinuation from the bike shop was that the cassette and chain would need changing together, hence me trying to stretch a little more life out of them.
I have got better at keeping the chain clean, and will as an absolute minimum give the chain a wipe down after each ride. But I’ve not been doing that throughout. I expect some of the dusty gravel rides I have done have been particularly bad for chain wear.
The insinuation from the bike shop was that the cassette and chain would need changing together, hence me trying to stretch a little more life out of them.
Chains, cassettes and chainrings are consumable items on a derailleur bike. If you are doing a lot of off-road riding on dirty, dusty, gritty surfaces then your drivechain life will suffer unless you are absolutely diligent about cleaning it.
I ride mostly on road, all year round and do about 3k miles pa. Just done a full drivechain refresh- for me chains last about 6 months, cassettes a year and chainrings (only one so it does all the work) about 18mths.
Dirt is the enemy- on clean dry summer roads there is little wear. On wet dirty winter roads there is lots. That's why so many roadies have winter bikes with cheaper groupsets that don't cost an arm and a leg to maintain;)
I ride mostly on road, all year round and do about 3k miles pa. Just done a full drivechain refresh- for me chains last about 6 months, cassettes a year and chainrings (only one so it does all the work) about 18mths.
Dirt is the enemy- on clean dry summer roads there is little wear. On wet dirty winter roads there is lots. That's why so many roadies have winter bikes with cheaper groupsets that don't cost an arm and a leg to maintain;)
6 monthly chain is an OK rule of thumb, but if you get a simple chain wear gauge like this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08QD97884/ref=cm_sw_r...
And replace the chain at 0.75, even better. Chain will will wear faster in winter than summer so actual interval will vary a bit.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08QD97884/ref=cm_sw_r...
And replace the chain at 0.75, even better. Chain will will wear faster in winter than summer so actual interval will vary a bit.
Theres quite a lot of variables in drivetrain component life so i use a chain wear tool from Park (CC-2) See here https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/when-to-...
I seem to get through two road chains for every cassette but chain rings seem to last forever!
I seem to get through two road chains for every cassette but chain rings seem to last forever!
dontlookdown said:
Chains, cassettes and chainrings are consumable items on a derailleur bike
This is absolutely true, but with the prices of 11 and 12 speed bits (not to mention the current availability issues) it would be preferable to not have to replace them quite as often. In my search for how best to prolong drivetrain life, I stumbled across some testing done by some rather intrepid and obsessed Australians:https://cyclingtips.com/2019/12/the-best-bicycle-c...
and
https://cyclingtips.com/2018/03/fast-chain-lube-th...
To cut a long story short, it seems that not all chains are created equal, and the drivetrain cleanliness is utterly critical to long life (which makes perfect sense - the main cause of wear is always going to be grit getting into the chain and mixing with the lubricant to form a very effective grinding paste). On the strength of the testing, I've bought a (very) cheap electric crockpot and 1kg of paraffin wax and will be giving hot-waxing a go with the chains on two bikes. The crockpot and wax cost about the same as a basic 11-speed chain, and if the technique works as well as some have reported, it should at least double the drivetrain life.
We'll see...
A new chain often skips on a part worn cassette. One way to extend cassette life is to run 2 chains at the same time. Every month take the chai. Off, clean, store, then replace with chain 2. That way both chains wear equally. You get two chains used before replacing cassette. And you are be re putting a new chain on a worn cassette.
Dirty chains will wear faster. Unlubed chains die almost immediately. I lent a friend d a 9 speed bike with new driveteain. He used it on tour for 10 days with a a few wet days. I met him on day 6 and the chain was squeaking it was so dry.
Needed replaced after 500 miles. At least it was 9 speed before recent prices rises.The bottle of malt he gave me covered The cost of a chain and cassette.
Dirty chains will wear faster. Unlubed chains die almost immediately. I lent a friend d a 9 speed bike with new driveteain. He used it on tour for 10 days with a a few wet days. I met him on day 6 and the chain was squeaking it was so dry.
Needed replaced after 500 miles. At least it was 9 speed before recent prices rises.The bottle of malt he gave me covered The cost of a chain and cassette.
Recommendation for 10+ speed now is replace at 0.5% stretch (fewer speeds is 0.75%).
If you've run 10+ speed to 0.75% then you've added a load of wear to your cassette and a new chain will probably skip. If you're getting skipping now on the old ones then yes, you'll be replacing both cassette and chain.
Pick up a chain stretch check tool then it's quick and easy to do. Just make sure it's a 0.5 / 0.75 one (eg Park CC3.2), some of the cheap ones are the old 0.75 / 1 standard.
If you've run 10+ speed to 0.75% then you've added a load of wear to your cassette and a new chain will probably skip. If you're getting skipping now on the old ones then yes, you'll be replacing both cassette and chain.
Pick up a chain stretch check tool then it's quick and easy to do. Just make sure it's a 0.5 / 0.75 one (eg Park CC3.2), some of the cheap ones are the old 0.75 / 1 standard.
uncinqsix said:
dontlookdown said:
Chains, cassettes and chainrings are consumable items on a derailleur bike
This is absolutely true, but with the prices of 11 and 12 speed bits (not to mention the current availability issues) it would be preferable to not have to replace them quite as often. In my search for how best to prolong drivetrain life, I stumbled across some testing done by some rather intrepid and obsessed Australians:https://cyclingtips.com/2019/12/the-best-bicycle-c...
and
https://cyclingtips.com/2018/03/fast-chain-lube-th...
To cut a long story short, it seems that not all chains are created equal, and the drivetrain cleanliness is utterly critical to long life (which makes perfect sense - the main cause of wear is always going to be grit getting into the chain and mixing with the lubricant to form a very effective grinding paste). On the strength of the testing, I've bought a (very) cheap electric crockpot and 1kg of paraffin wax and will be giving hot-waxing a go with the chains on two bikes. The crockpot and wax cost about the same as a basic 11-speed chain, and if the technique works as well as some have reported, it should at least double the drivetrain life.
We'll see...
Also put off as in my experience, ceramic-based dry lube is pretty rubbish. Oil does attract the muck for sure but at least it is an effective lubricant. Perhaps wax is too.
jimmy156 said:
Okay, so to get 3500 miles out of chain, cassette and chainrings of road with a little gravel is not too bad going then. The bike is used all year round.
I will look to maybe chain the chain 6 monthly to stretch a bit more life out of the rest of it!
My "gravel" bike is an old Cannondale. I've just replaced the chain and cassette for the first time since I fitted new consumables when I bought it off eBay. The first lot lasted 2,599.6 miles before I gave in and swapped them. It was still running pretty well, occasionally skipping on the 11 tooth sprocket so I could have pushed it a bit longer. But it's running an old tech 9-speed triple chainset, not easy to find chainrings for, so I need to swap chains as soon as the symptoms of wear start showing up. I do have a Park Tools chain-checker, but it doesn't go down to 0.5% worn, just 0.75%.I will look to maybe chain the chain 6 monthly to stretch a bit more life out of the rest of it!
My MTB, especially when I was racing it in local winter series races, could chew through a chain and cassette in about 500 miles. My road bike has just had a new crankset after 16,800 miles. Simply couldn't find a pair of chainrings anywhere to rival the price of a Shimano 105 crankset. Chains on that seem to last between 1,400 and 1,900 miles, and cassettes about 2,000 miles. That's using the cheap Microshift stuff from Decathlon. I've got three changes of chain and cassette stashed in my spares box for that. Mainly because I couldn't find one set when I needed it, and another time I bought "on autopilot" when I was meant to be shopping for 10-speed stuff for my MTB. I've put 700 miles through the current chain in six weeks, so I think it'll need swapping again before winter hits.
Those are some very accurate numbers!
I probably do 1500-2000 miles a year on main and commuter bikes, and more likey to change both chain and cassette each annual service, but sometimes not necessary.
I do a wet wipe clean / lube every week, hundred odd miles, or wet ride for the best bike.
Noticed quicker wear on gravel bike , I think 2 multi day trips with dusty trails and no lube really hot chain, as mentioned above.
Bike boredom or theft has always come quicker than chainring wear for me. Current is probably at 5-7k miles with little issue.
I probably do 1500-2000 miles a year on main and commuter bikes, and more likey to change both chain and cassette each annual service, but sometimes not necessary.
I do a wet wipe clean / lube every week, hundred odd miles, or wet ride for the best bike.
Noticed quicker wear on gravel bike , I think 2 multi day trips with dusty trails and no lube really hot chain, as mentioned above.
Bike boredom or theft has always come quicker than chainring wear for me. Current is probably at 5-7k miles with little issue.
I agree with all of the above and would like to toss a chain scrubber into the mix too
Plus some degreaser, I use citrus but non eco alternatives are available
Summer bike less of an issue but I use it regularly with my gravel bike which is also my winter road bike with a second set of wheels running slicks
For summer gravel I use dry lube, its rarely topped up and I rarely scrub the chain
Winter - different ball game
I generally use wet lube and after 4-5 road rides, less if its been wet, scrub the chain and after pretty much every winter gravel ride give it a good going over too plus the cassette with an old toothbrush
Its not hard to see the amount of crud washed off in the scrubber and how this would be a grinding paste of left on the chain in winter
Im a pretty hard user and my chains and cassettes last longer than those of my riding partners
Cheers
dontlookdown said:
I saw that chain waxing video too. Be interested to know how you get on..It seems like a lot of faff but if works, maybe worth the effort.
The biggest faff was stripping the chains yesterday, but that really only involved sticking them in a jar with solvent for a few hours, a couple of soaks in simple green, then a quick rinse in acetone.The actual waxing is just a matter of turning the crockpot on, waiting for the wax to melt and chucking the chains in. The theory is that no further solvent cleaning will be needed for the life of the chain, and at most it might need an occasional swish in boiling water to clean any old dirty wax off.
Dnlm said:
Those are some very accurate numbers!
I probably do 1500-2000 miles a year on main and commuter bikes, and more likey to change both chain and cassette each annual service, but sometimes not necessary.
I do a wet wipe clean / lube every week, hundred odd miles, or wet ride for the best bike.
Noticed quicker wear on gravel bike , I think 2 multi day trips with dusty trails and no lube really hot chain, as mentioned above.
Bike boredom or theft has always come quicker than chainring wear for me. Current is probably at 5-7k miles with little issue.
Strava does all the calculations for me. All I need to do is type in what I replace and when I replaced it...I probably do 1500-2000 miles a year on main and commuter bikes, and more likey to change both chain and cassette each annual service, but sometimes not necessary.
I do a wet wipe clean / lube every week, hundred odd miles, or wet ride for the best bike.
Noticed quicker wear on gravel bike , I think 2 multi day trips with dusty trails and no lube really hot chain, as mentioned above.
Bike boredom or theft has always come quicker than chainring wear for me. Current is probably at 5-7k miles with little issue.
Those bits are from the 'Retired' section. So it keeps a record of the last couple of items like chains and cassettes (used to only be the last "retired" items). A couple of clicks into 'My Profile, My Gear' on the Strava website on PC/laptop (not sure about the app) and you've got an at-a-glance record of how long any component is lasting (or how long it lasted before failure). It also has a text box where I make notes about where I bought stuff, which shop serviced/fitted things, prices, etc. To some people it's a bit OCD but I keep records for my bikes' service histories like other people keep records for their cars.
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