Front light power (road)
Discussion
Back in the day, I remember riding quite happily with a simple bottle dynamo powered halogen bulb light, backed up sometimes with an original style Petzl halogen bulb headlamp. I had a 4AA Cateye bulb torch/light, too, but don't think I used that much after getting the dynamo. Lumen totals would have been tiny!
Looking for a new front light for my road bike now the evenings are drawing in, but it's still too nice outside to be on Zwift. It seems that the minimum acceptable power for riding unlit roads now kicks in around 1000 lumens... even the £100 Exposure Sirius Mk9 I fancy the look of appears to be considered entry-level at 850/900 lumens and barely enough to be taken seriously as a "seeing" light.
However, I worry that reviewers with a whole pile of lights to try out will experience "adequacy creep" - which might not be quite the same for mortals in the real world who don't get to play with brighter and brighter lights.
I would like to keep my speeds up as darkness falls; most of my riding is on quiet, unlit roads; on the whole I'm not exploring locally much anymore - they will tend to be things I've ridden before. My average speeds are 15/16mph across the hills around me, and I'll be happy enough not doing 40mph down some of them in the dark, regardless of light power!
So, what say the real world cyclists here?
Looking for a new front light for my road bike now the evenings are drawing in, but it's still too nice outside to be on Zwift. It seems that the minimum acceptable power for riding unlit roads now kicks in around 1000 lumens... even the £100 Exposure Sirius Mk9 I fancy the look of appears to be considered entry-level at 850/900 lumens and barely enough to be taken seriously as a "seeing" light.
However, I worry that reviewers with a whole pile of lights to try out will experience "adequacy creep" - which might not be quite the same for mortals in the real world who don't get to play with brighter and brighter lights.
I would like to keep my speeds up as darkness falls; most of my riding is on quiet, unlit roads; on the whole I'm not exploring locally much anymore - they will tend to be things I've ridden before. My average speeds are 15/16mph across the hills around me, and I'll be happy enough not doing 40mph down some of them in the dark, regardless of light power!
So, what say the real world cyclists here?
1600 lumen Halfords (Bikehut) light for me.
It would last for three hours on full power. But I seldom use that setting. Dusk/sunset I use one of three flashing modes. After that, or in "tree tunnels" I knock it up to the third or fourth setting on uphills, second or third setting on the flat, and occasionally full power on a fast descent. Full whack necessary on off-road MTB trails most of the time. Overkill on the road unless you're getting above 25 mph.
Even on "get you home" power save mode, though, it's probably brighter than the incandescent lamp Cateye light I used to happily ride with, which was, I think, a 0.5 watt lamp powered by two 'C' cell batteries. I think it's true to say that the more light you have, the more you convince yourself that you need it, and possibly more. Between the Cateye and modern USB chargeable LED lights I got by with a couple of 'Smart' branded "cigar" shaped lights each running five LEDs and powered by two AA batteries. Then similar lights with "clever" lens technology.
I've got to say that I like a bright light on the road. The more I look like a motorcycle to drivers, the less likely they are to drive straight at me or pull out late in front of me. Perhaps counterintuitive, but I actually feel safer at night with decent lights than I do in daylight much of the time. I usually carry three rear lights too, with two "on" and one as a backup, plus a spare front light.But then I do quite a bit of riding after dark because I like the nocturnal wildlife and the feeling of absolute isolation on rural roads when all self-respecting drivers have long ago gone to bed.
It would last for three hours on full power. But I seldom use that setting. Dusk/sunset I use one of three flashing modes. After that, or in "tree tunnels" I knock it up to the third or fourth setting on uphills, second or third setting on the flat, and occasionally full power on a fast descent. Full whack necessary on off-road MTB trails most of the time. Overkill on the road unless you're getting above 25 mph.
Even on "get you home" power save mode, though, it's probably brighter than the incandescent lamp Cateye light I used to happily ride with, which was, I think, a 0.5 watt lamp powered by two 'C' cell batteries. I think it's true to say that the more light you have, the more you convince yourself that you need it, and possibly more. Between the Cateye and modern USB chargeable LED lights I got by with a couple of 'Smart' branded "cigar" shaped lights each running five LEDs and powered by two AA batteries. Then similar lights with "clever" lens technology.
I've got to say that I like a bright light on the road. The more I look like a motorcycle to drivers, the less likely they are to drive straight at me or pull out late in front of me. Perhaps counterintuitive, but I actually feel safer at night with decent lights than I do in daylight much of the time. I usually carry three rear lights too, with two "on" and one as a backup, plus a spare front light.But then I do quite a bit of riding after dark because I like the nocturnal wildlife and the feeling of absolute isolation on rural roads when all self-respecting drivers have long ago gone to bed.
For the most part it’s just dick waving. No point having a WW2 searchlight if you never run it on full blast, it kills the battery in 30 minutes and/or it pisses light up uselessly into the sky or into the eyes of other road users. I’m finding that the c.600 lumen settings of my Ravemen lights is fine for unlit roads. Having a decent beam pattern helps just as much as lumens.
It's not an easy question to answer really because...
Not all Lumens are the same.
Beam pattern is just as important.
Age plays a big factor - your lenses will yellow with age do you need more light to see.
Road surface makes a difference so on poorer roads more light helps spot the hidden pot hole that'll have you over the bars.
Longer viewing distances help plan ahead and keep safe speed.
Other than pissing off drivers coming towards you, the more light the better IME.
When I mtb at night I have 6k Lumens between bars and helmet as it means I can ride like I do in daylight.
Not all Lumens are the same.
Beam pattern is just as important.
Age plays a big factor - your lenses will yellow with age do you need more light to see.
Road surface makes a difference so on poorer roads more light helps spot the hidden pot hole that'll have you over the bars.
Longer viewing distances help plan ahead and keep safe speed.
Other than pissing off drivers coming towards you, the more light the better IME.
When I mtb at night I have 6k Lumens between bars and helmet as it means I can ride like I do in daylight.
yellowjack said:
Even on "get you home" power save mode, though, it's probably brighter than the incandescent lamp Cateye light I used to happily ride with, which was, I think, a 0.5 watt lamp powered by two 'C' cell batteries. I think it's true to say that the more light you have, the more you convince yourself that you need it, and possibly more.
This is my niggling suspicion...take-good-care-of-the-forest-dewey said:
Not all Lumens are the same.
Beam pattern is just as important.
Longer viewing distances help plan ahead and keep safe speed.
I'm a long-time fan of torches (was tempted to post this in the "£my new torch" thread; been on CPF for donkey's, too) so I completely understand the first 2 points. And given the way I've pretty always upgraded my motorbike and car headlights, I'm with the third point as well... but then your back to the beam pattern point as much as power - lumens lighting treetops are going to be wasted, no matter how many there are - one of the reasons I'm drawn to the Exposure light, and the Ravemen range, too.Beam pattern is just as important.
Longer viewing distances help plan ahead and keep safe speed.
yellowjack said:
1600 lumen Halfords (Bikehut) light for me.
It would last for three hours on full power. But I seldom use that setting. Dusk/sunset I use one of three flashing modes. After that, or in "tree tunnels" I knock it up to the third or fourth setting on uphills, second or third setting on the flat, and occasionally full power on a fast descent. Full whack necessary on off-road MTB trails most of the time. Overkill on the road unless you're getting above 25 mph.
Even on "get you home" power save mode, though, it's probably brighter than the incandescent lamp Cateye light I used to happily ride with, which was, I think, a 0.5 watt lamp powered by two 'C' cell batteries. I think it's true to say that the more light you have, the more you convince yourself that you need it, and possibly more. Between the Cateye and modern USB chargeable LED lights I got by with a couple of 'Smart' branded "cigar" shaped lights each running five LEDs and powered by two AA batteries. Then similar lights with "clever" lens technology.
I've got to say that I like a bright light on the road. The more I look like a motorcycle to drivers, the less likely they are to drive straight at me or pull out late in front of me. Perhaps counterintuitive, but I actually feel safer at night with decent lights than I do in daylight much of the time. I usually carry three rear lights too, with two "on" and one as a backup, plus a spare front light.But then I do quite a bit of riding after dark because I like the nocturnal wildlife and the feeling of absolute isolation on rural roads when all self-respecting drivers have long ago gone to bed.
I have the 1000 lm Bikehut light. Usually run it on half power on busy roads, only using full power either off-road or on unlit back roads.It would last for three hours on full power. But I seldom use that setting. Dusk/sunset I use one of three flashing modes. After that, or in "tree tunnels" I knock it up to the third or fourth setting on uphills, second or third setting on the flat, and occasionally full power on a fast descent. Full whack necessary on off-road MTB trails most of the time. Overkill on the road unless you're getting above 25 mph.
Even on "get you home" power save mode, though, it's probably brighter than the incandescent lamp Cateye light I used to happily ride with, which was, I think, a 0.5 watt lamp powered by two 'C' cell batteries. I think it's true to say that the more light you have, the more you convince yourself that you need it, and possibly more. Between the Cateye and modern USB chargeable LED lights I got by with a couple of 'Smart' branded "cigar" shaped lights each running five LEDs and powered by two AA batteries. Then similar lights with "clever" lens technology.
I've got to say that I like a bright light on the road. The more I look like a motorcycle to drivers, the less likely they are to drive straight at me or pull out late in front of me. Perhaps counterintuitive, but I actually feel safer at night with decent lights than I do in daylight much of the time. I usually carry three rear lights too, with two "on" and one as a backup, plus a spare front light.But then I do quite a bit of riding after dark because I like the nocturnal wildlife and the feeling of absolute isolation on rural roads when all self-respecting drivers have long ago gone to bed.
Well built and has good battery life for £30
defblade said:
I'm a long-time fan of torches (was tempted to post this in the "£my new torch" thread; been on CPF for donkey's, too) so I completely understand the first 2 points. And given the way I've pretty always upgraded my motorbike and car headlights, I'm with the third point as well... but then your back to the beam pattern point as much as power - lumens lighting treetops are going to be wasted, no matter how many there are - one of the reasons I'm drawn to the Exposure light, and the Ravemen range, too.
I use exposure head lights so can recommend... But magicshine make a better (as in price vs performance) bar mount. They really are superb lights - bright, good beam, and great battery life.Their bigger 4k lumen lights can be had for less than 200 quid. They have a mix of flood and projector emitters.
Can’t go wrong with exposure lights imo. I tried a cheap chinese light before i bought the exposure and had heard horror stories of batteries exploding when on charge. Never experienced this but did notice they got quite hot and wouldn’t leave them unattended for long.
I think the light stopped charging properly after 6 months which is when I decided to invest in a branded light.
I Bought a second hand Maxx D with some ridiculous 2000+ lumen output which really did light the road up, great confidence booster but mostly unnecessary unless you’re on unfamiliar roads or off-roading.
I rarely use it on its max setting preferring instead to run it on mid and pairing it with a helmet mounted light (joystick).
I really like this combo as it allows me to look around corners or directly at car drivers who “forget” to dip their high beams as a gentle reminder.
I think the light stopped charging properly after 6 months which is when I decided to invest in a branded light.
I Bought a second hand Maxx D with some ridiculous 2000+ lumen output which really did light the road up, great confidence booster but mostly unnecessary unless you’re on unfamiliar roads or off-roading.
I rarely use it on its max setting preferring instead to run it on mid and pairing it with a helmet mounted light (joystick).
I really like this combo as it allows me to look around corners or directly at car drivers who “forget” to dip their high beams as a gentle reminder.
I've got both the 1600 Halfords / bikehut front for real night riding and Exposure Track/Trace set for my far more frequent city night / dawn light out to the country.
Find the Halfords light works decently when I need it, the computer mount and USB charger function are helpful too. At 50 quid very happy
The exposure lights are a pleasure to use, and would imagine their grown up versions are better than halfords, but the cost is wayyyy too off-putting for me. Got the T/T on sale and still more than Halfords.
defblade said:
I would like to keep my speeds up as darkness falls; most of my riding is on quiet, unlit roads; on the whole I'm not exploring locally much anymore - they will tend to be things I've ridden before. My average speeds are 15/16mph across the hills around me, and I'll be happy enough not doing 40mph down some of them in the dark, regardless of light power!
I used x2 cheapo LED lights off eBay/Amazon. One has a tigher beam pattern than the other, but if either fail they still just about gets me home. I struggle to go over 20mph with these lights let alone anything close to 40mph on unlit back roads, even knowing where the potholes are on the road. I charge them up every few days, but I only use them for about 5 miles a day in full power mode for the unlit bits of my commute. The other thing you a have to bear in mind is oncoming traffic will cause you loss some night vision as they go past, so unless the lights on the bike are putting out decent lumens every time a car goes past in the opposite direction you will struggle to see the road for a good 5 seconds. This winter am thinking about getting a 3rd light. If you are cycling in the city you don't need that much light, but our on back roads it does make a difference, the more the better, and with these LED lights so cheap why no have more!
As mentioned above multiple rear lights are needed too, I run 2 on the bike and one on the helmet.
I’ve got two expensive front lamps, Magic Shine and a Hope, both £200+ but my Halfords Bike Hut jobby is about 6 years old, still bright as f*ck and a bargain at £50ish.
On a budget the Halfords stuff is brilliant and much better quality than those cheap EBay mega-bright, but only last one season lamps.
On a budget the Halfords stuff is brilliant and much better quality than those cheap EBay mega-bright, but only last one season lamps.
Not sure on the lumen numbers but back when I commuted I used 2 types of front light. 1 a cheap cree LED off eBay. That was good at throwing a good chunk of light, albeit not very focused. That was so people could see me and an I could see the road directly in front. I then had a Leynze something that had much better lenses and could focus a decent spot further down the road, that was for illumination of objects pot holes etc
I used to commute in the 'proper dark' back roads for about 12 miles out of 18.
Had a Lezyne 800xl light which I used to use on full power for the dark parts, but never got near the '1 hour at full power' that was advertised, and constantly had to run on a lower mode.
Most recent light is a Cateye volt 1300, which is easily enough light on full power to zip along at 30mph with the wind behind. It's very heavy though, so can sometimes shift around on my bars when the surface is very bumpy (most notably on a descent at around 40mph in the pitch dark!).
I'd suggest going with something overpowered for what you need, then you can run it at a lower power and save the highest setting for occasional use.
Probably depends on your usage too - a long straight flattish b road you know well with few potholes doesn't need as much light as a road that generates lots of new potholes and has sharp turns and steep gradients.
Had a Lezyne 800xl light which I used to use on full power for the dark parts, but never got near the '1 hour at full power' that was advertised, and constantly had to run on a lower mode.
Most recent light is a Cateye volt 1300, which is easily enough light on full power to zip along at 30mph with the wind behind. It's very heavy though, so can sometimes shift around on my bars when the surface is very bumpy (most notably on a descent at around 40mph in the pitch dark!).
I'd suggest going with something overpowered for what you need, then you can run it at a lower power and save the highest setting for occasional use.
Probably depends on your usage too - a long straight flattish b road you know well with few potholes doesn't need as much light as a road that generates lots of new potholes and has sharp turns and steep gradients.
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