Pedalling noise.
Discussion
As mentioned on the "what bits" thread, I thought I knew what was making my noise... I was sure it was the BB and so I changed it for a pricey Hope one.
Which didn't help at all
So, any other pointers for a noise, anything from smooth and silent sometimes, to a click, to a sort of extended grinding/juddering/groaning.
The noise only occurs on the drive-side power stroke under load - say between about 12 o'clock and 5 o'clock as the pedal comes down and I'm pushing on it. Just holding speed on the flat makes no noise, even gentle pedalling uphill can be silent, but any effort and it's back (unless it's not making it for the moment).
Gear ratio etc makes no difference - it's 100% tied to the pedal rotation.
If I pedal with one leg at a time, no noise at all using my left leg, but it's there with just the right.
I changed the pedal for a spare one and that didn't help, so I guess that eliminates the pedal itself.
I cleaned the chain up a bit and added extra lube, but then unless the chain has consistent trouble, the noise surely couldn't be only linked to pedal rotation as different bits of the chain would be in different places each stroke and depending on gear ratio. Also, I can't believe the chain would respond differently depending on which side pedal I'm using! Same goes for the cassette - surely it if the noise was starting there, it would change with ratio/speed and not care which side I was pedalling. Anyway, it didn't help.
Greasing up the old BB did help - before I did that, it was a constant noise, then it became occasional, which is why I thought the BB was gone.
I'm really stuck with how it's a problem with one pedal stroke and not the other, when I've changed or fiddled with all the bits that should "know" which pedal is getting the power... the only thing I'm left with at the moment is the fixing of the spider onto the axle itself which, if not solid, might vary the loads by pedal side? ... But I'd expect the crank that's fixed to/part of the spider to be the quiet one! I haven't found any unexpected movement or slop in these parts though.
Help!
Any further thoughts?
Which didn't help at all
So, any other pointers for a noise, anything from smooth and silent sometimes, to a click, to a sort of extended grinding/juddering/groaning.
The noise only occurs on the drive-side power stroke under load - say between about 12 o'clock and 5 o'clock as the pedal comes down and I'm pushing on it. Just holding speed on the flat makes no noise, even gentle pedalling uphill can be silent, but any effort and it's back (unless it's not making it for the moment).
Gear ratio etc makes no difference - it's 100% tied to the pedal rotation.
If I pedal with one leg at a time, no noise at all using my left leg, but it's there with just the right.
I changed the pedal for a spare one and that didn't help, so I guess that eliminates the pedal itself.
I cleaned the chain up a bit and added extra lube, but then unless the chain has consistent trouble, the noise surely couldn't be only linked to pedal rotation as different bits of the chain would be in different places each stroke and depending on gear ratio. Also, I can't believe the chain would respond differently depending on which side pedal I'm using! Same goes for the cassette - surely it if the noise was starting there, it would change with ratio/speed and not care which side I was pedalling. Anyway, it didn't help.
Greasing up the old BB did help - before I did that, it was a constant noise, then it became occasional, which is why I thought the BB was gone.
I'm really stuck with how it's a problem with one pedal stroke and not the other, when I've changed or fiddled with all the bits that should "know" which pedal is getting the power... the only thing I'm left with at the moment is the fixing of the spider onto the axle itself which, if not solid, might vary the loads by pedal side? ... But I'd expect the crank that's fixed to/part of the spider to be the quiet one! I haven't found any unexpected movement or slop in these parts though.
Help!
Any further thoughts?
addey said:
I was convinced my BB was on its way out at one stage but it turned out to be the rear skewer with the noise transmitting through the frame. You could also check all the chainring bolts are tight, and your cleats (if you are using clipless)
I had a very similar issue earlier this year (albeit on my MTB).. convinced it was the BB - replaced that.. nope.. went through the whole drive-train... stripped, cleaned,thread-locked or replaced.... just as I was about to admit defeat and book it into the LBS - I took the rear hub out and added a bit of fresh grease to a metal bush in the hub (although it was already pretty well greased).
Silent running resumed.
Given that you've done all the obvious things around the BB/cranks and it's only experienced under strain, I would suggest you extend your checks to the rear wheel.
Two main things to look at: 1, tightness of rear skewer and 2, tightness of cassette (most folk don't tighten their cassettes anywhere near tight enough). If either aren't tight enough then you'll get a minute amount of play under load that will manifest itself as creaking that will echo through the frame and can sound like it's coming from the BB area. If you've got a spare wheel to test with, that would be ideal.
Less likely, but I would also spend some time checking over the frame and rear wheel carefully looking for any cracks.
Two main things to look at: 1, tightness of rear skewer and 2, tightness of cassette (most folk don't tighten their cassettes anywhere near tight enough). If either aren't tight enough then you'll get a minute amount of play under load that will manifest itself as creaking that will echo through the frame and can sound like it's coming from the BB area. If you've got a spare wheel to test with, that would be ideal.
Less likely, but I would also spend some time checking over the frame and rear wheel carefully looking for any cracks.
1x at the front, and thru-axles on the wheels, plenty more to look at there, thank you.
(Although if it is the cassette/rear wheel, I still don't understand how it could be one-sided only!)
The bike is only 600+ miles old, so the BB I took out was the OE one from the manufacturer; the non-drive side had picked up a bit of swarf but the threads in the shell looked ok; I put the new one in carefully by had until getting snug, just in case, but it slid home smoothly.
(Although if it is the cassette/rear wheel, I still don't understand how it could be one-sided only!)
The bike is only 600+ miles old, so the BB I took out was the OE one from the manufacturer; the non-drive side had picked up a bit of swarf but the threads in the shell looked ok; I put the new one in carefully by had until getting snug, just in case, but it slid home smoothly.
Going to have to split the prize 3 ways, I think...
Considered all the replies and advice and decided to work through them steadily this morning. Happily our lane is quiet and slopes a bit, so it's easy enough to pop out of the garage and do two or three runs with a load through the pedals to test each time.
First off, cleaned out my cleats completely, and tightened the pedals' SPD tension a couple of notches on all 4 clips. Then sprayed the cleats and the pedals with GT85, for the PTFE. Test: no change.
Next easy bit, and something I've seen repeatedly mentioned for random creaks but had discounted for this one, for no good reason really - seatpost and saddle mounting. Cleaned and greased the post, loosened and GT85'ed the saddle rails and clamp bolts. Test: no change.
Took both pedals off, cleaned, regreased (making sure the washer had a bit, too). Test: no change.
Took the cranks and axle off/out. Greased everything that touches something else. Used up most of my small precious remaining supply of Black Gold grease. Then for good measure while the chain was off, removed the chain ring, greased the mating faces and the outside of the barrel bolts, then put it back together (thread-locking the bolts). Test: no change.
Then we get to the winners:
addey, tvrfan007 and calvinhobbes*
Slightly disappointed/discouraged, sure I should have it sorted by now, I turned to the rear wheel. As I say, mine's thru-axle rather than QR, but thought I'd start there. Hm. This could stand being done up a little tighter. And a little tighter still. Maybe 240' extra in total. Test: no noise!!!!!
Not sure whether to be
or 
!
Cleaned the chain and cassette while I was there anyway... went out for half an hour or so ride this evening and lovely lovely quiet the whole way around.
So I now have a very nice but totally unnecessary Hope BB installed for the sake of tightening the rear axle by 2/3rds of a turn... and a drivetrain that feels absolutely buttery smooth
Thanks again to all who helped, and on the "what bits" thread
*As an aside, I recently filled the gaps in my Calvin & Hobbes collection, and I am currently spending longer for each sitting visit to the loo than strictly necessary, while I re-read the lot
Considered all the replies and advice and decided to work through them steadily this morning. Happily our lane is quiet and slopes a bit, so it's easy enough to pop out of the garage and do two or three runs with a load through the pedals to test each time.
First off, cleaned out my cleats completely, and tightened the pedals' SPD tension a couple of notches on all 4 clips. Then sprayed the cleats and the pedals with GT85, for the PTFE. Test: no change.
Next easy bit, and something I've seen repeatedly mentioned for random creaks but had discounted for this one, for no good reason really - seatpost and saddle mounting. Cleaned and greased the post, loosened and GT85'ed the saddle rails and clamp bolts. Test: no change.
Took both pedals off, cleaned, regreased (making sure the washer had a bit, too). Test: no change.
Took the cranks and axle off/out. Greased everything that touches something else. Used up most of my small precious remaining supply of Black Gold grease. Then for good measure while the chain was off, removed the chain ring, greased the mating faces and the outside of the barrel bolts, then put it back together (thread-locking the bolts). Test: no change.
Then we get to the winners:
addey, tvrfan007 and calvinhobbes*
Slightly disappointed/discouraged, sure I should have it sorted by now, I turned to the rear wheel. As I say, mine's thru-axle rather than QR, but thought I'd start there. Hm. This could stand being done up a little tighter. And a little tighter still. Maybe 240' extra in total. Test: no noise!!!!!
Not sure whether to be
or !Cleaned the chain and cassette while I was there anyway... went out for half an hour or so ride this evening and lovely lovely quiet the whole way around.
So I now have a very nice but totally unnecessary Hope BB installed for the sake of tightening the rear axle by 2/3rds of a turn... and a drivetrain that feels absolutely buttery smooth
Thanks again to all who helped, and on the "what bits" thread
*As an aside, I recently filled the gaps in my Calvin & Hobbes collection, and I am currently spending longer for each sitting visit to the loo than strictly necessary, while I re-read the lot
If it’s any consolation, I’ve been getting a creak from the bottom end of my Cannondale Slate.
BB was replaced 1,000 miles ago, so all good, but I still stripped the cranks off and cleaned everything up and reassembled using grease.
Still noisy.
Stripped the wheels off to give it a good clean and discovered the derailleur hanger bolt was loose…..allowing the hangar to rotate on the through bolt
Unfortunately, that hasn’t stopped me taking the chainwheel bolts out, greasing them and retightening them just to be sure.
BB was replaced 1,000 miles ago, so all good, but I still stripped the cranks off and cleaned everything up and reassembled using grease.
Still noisy.
Stripped the wheels off to give it a good clean and discovered the derailleur hanger bolt was loose…..allowing the hangar to rotate on the through bolt
Unfortunately, that hasn’t stopped me taking the chainwheel bolts out, greasing them and retightening them just to be sure.
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