Road bike upgrade

[MOBB]

I've currently got a Cube Attain pro disc GTC, had it 3 years, paid £1.2k for it new, nice bike.

I've started thinking about an upgrade, and luckily I have a very good cycle to work scheme so no upper limit in theory.

I fancied something a bit more aero-looking with di2, I'm not a fast rider by any means, and a bit fat and unflexible :-) But I like the current batch of aero bikes and they are supposed to be pretty comfortable compared to older aero bikes.

Anyway, I was browsing and came across this;

https://www.orrobikes.com/shop/2021-venturi-ultegr...

Looks a steal I thought? Di2, aero looks, half decent wheelset, integrated cabling.

Am I missing anything?

I was looking at Scott Foils and Canyon Aeroads but they are way more!

[lufbramatt]

I've been looking at these recently after someone on here suggested them. Get very good writeups in the press. I know a couple of guys that have Terra gravel/road bikes and they look very nicely finished and give the impression of being more expensive than they were. The Sigmatex "spread tow carbon" tech is vaguely interesting although doubt it has much of an effect in real life.

Personally I'd go for the "Tailor made" version with mechanical Ultegra but carbon wheels and cockpit (rather than alloy wheels and bars) as I'm not fussed about Di2, but can see the appeal. Have heard that bikes have been delivered with deeper (55mm) carbon wheels than advertised and GP5000 tyres, presumably down to supply issues, so that's a good thing.

[louiebaby]

Whilst it doesn't tell the whole story, look at the ratio between Stack and Reach in the Geo chart. Big number divided by small number.

A smaller ratio means it will be more long and low (aero style) and a higher number will be sit up and beg (Dutch bike style.)

If you struggle with flexibility, you might struggle with something very long and low. Have a look at Canyon and compare the Aeroad, Ultimate and Endurace to see what I mean.

You can make things fit a bit with different stems and possibly seat posts, but it might be worth trying to get a bike with the same basic function as you're likely to use it for.

[lufbramatt]

Depending on size:

Venturi is around 1.4-1.45

Aeroad is 1.37-1.45

Endurace is 1.45-1.5

So the Venturi is nearer the Aeroad end of things (low) rather than the Endurace (comfy)

[JayRidesBikes]

I recommended one of these bikes to somebody on here not too long back, a guy I know has one and they seem like really good bikes for the money, plus they seem to get a lot of positive reviews. Only downside (plus side?) I can see if they don't seem to hold resale value very well, so perhaps bare that in mind if buying new but if you check eBay they pop up now and again and seem to sell for around £3K with Di2.

[remedy]

I was in my Lbs today when this thread was started getting the ball rolling on the Venturi STC SRAM force tailor made in matt black.
I ride a ML size Giant defy advanced at the moment and it looks like I'll need a L frame for the Orro.
Due November. Can't wait. Just rubbish timing as it'll be sat unused with our typical winter weather.

[MOBB]

Decided not to go full aero in the end, spotted one of these in my size available on their website today so nabbed it.

https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/road-bikes/endurance-...

Supposedly October delivery, we shall see - probably wont ride it much over winter only so not in a rush!

Looks like a comfy high spec bike, with aero bits and bobs, probably better for my aching frame lol

[louiebaby]

MOBB said:

Decided not to go full aero in the end, spotted one of these in my size available on their website today so nabbed it.

https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/road-bikes/endurance-...

Supposedly October delivery, we shall see - probably wont ride it much over winter only so not in a rush!

Looks like a comfy high spec bike, with aero bits and bobs, probably better for my aching frame lol

There's a lot to like about that spec, and getting a decent carbon frame with Ultegra Di2 and a power meter for under £5k seems like pretty good value at the moment. They've even put decent tyres on it. (Although I've ruined two GP5000's this year, they don't seem to like smaller wet roads, I've ripped a side wall and possibly put a tear in the current one.)

If I was being picky, I'd prefer the controller junction box was the in-handlebar version to make the front end a fraction cleaner, but still a great bike! Nice and light too.

[Dannbodge]

Comparing stack and reach doesn't always work though.

You could find that the higher ratio has less spacers and a different stem than a lower ration one (which has more spacers etc) So they could effectively have handlebars in the same position.

There's much more to it than just those two,. You also need to consider the headtube lengths, angle, seat post angle and top tube length.

Also it really annoys me when people assume that a more upright position is more comfortable. That's not always the case, maybe it's less pressure on your lower back but more weight on the saddle but not always more comfortable.

[Juffled]

Dannbodge said:

Comparing stack and reach doesn't always work though.

You could find that the higher ratio has less spacers and a different stem than a lower ration one (which has more spacers etc) So they could effectively have handlebars in the same position.

This is incorrect, stack and reach is a measurment from the BB to the centre of the upper headset bearing (basically), and doesn't include anything like spacers, bar geometry, stem length etc. These are variables that allow you to tailor the fit to your preference but ulimtately if the frame stack or reach is out of your preferred range then its likely the bike wont fit well or will have very comprimised handling (overly short stem).

[Dannbodge]

Juffled said:

This is incorrect, stack and reach is a measurment from the BB to the centre of the upper headset bearing (basically), and doesn't include anything like spacers, bar geometry, stem length etc. These are variables that allow you to tailor the fit to your preference but ulimtately if the frame stack or reach is out of your preferred range then its likely the bike wont fit well or will have very comprimised handling (overly short stem).

I am correct and I'm well aware how it's measured.
I've said that you can make a higher stack frame have the handlebars in the same position as a lower stack frame based on the number of spacers and stem length/angle.

Comparing bikes in their standard form using the stack and reach is pointless (ish) as you can make an endurance bike racey by slamming the stem and putting a very high neg stem on. Just like a racey bike (low stack, high reach) can be made more upright.

I agree that you need to get it roughly correct as you don't want a very short or overly long stem

[lufbramatt]

IIRC the stack/reach thing was thought up by a guy that was designing triathlon bikes (Quintana Roo?) as they had less flexibility about adjusting the position of aero bars to get in the right position, so it was intended as a way of being able to select frames that got in the ballpark of what the rider needed given the range of adjustment of available front end parts. It's since been adopted by road bike manufacturers as a way to compare frames but there's much more scope to adjust the fit of a road bike.

[Juffled]

Dannbodge said:

You could find that the higher ratio has less spacers and a different stem than a lower ration one (which has more spacers etc) So they could effectively have handlebars in the same position.

Dannbodge said:

I am correct and I'm well aware how it's measured.

Whatever...you talk about stack/reach ratios including stem and spacers.