Road Bike Gearing

[Al U]

I have been road cycling since the start of the year, so around 6 months. I bought a cheap aluminium Giant Defy on ebay to see if I would get into it, did get into it and have since got a Giant TCR.

The main difference for me between the two bikes is that the Defy had 50/34 & 11/32 (compact) gearing whereas the TCR has 52/36 & 11/28 gearing (mid compact).

I have definitely noticed that the TCR can be a lot harder to climb with and yesterday I did my first sportive, the south downs tour 100 mile route and on some of the hills I was grinding really hard in my lowest gear, barely moving at some points trying to get up some of the brutal (to me at least) hills.

My friend that I ride with has also noticed that I am struggling a lot more on hills on routes we ride regularly and I am wondering whether I should look to buy compact gearing for my new bike.

After a bit of reading online there are some heroes that suggest they can't tell the difference between the gearing options when climbing but I definitely can. I actually think I get up climbs quicker on my old cheap bike because of the gearing, I can maintain a better cadence and don't feel as destroyed when I get to the top.

So if you are a more experienced cyclist or have maybe had the same decision to make I'd be interested to hear your thoughts. A part of me thinks I just need to get used to the mid compact gearing and after a while I'll be able to get up the harder climbs quicker but another part of me thinks that maybe I am just not fit enough for the mid compact gearing on the harder climbs and I should get compact gearing, build up my fitness for another year and then change over the mid compact once I have been cycling for longer. Any thoughts?

[addey]

You could swap the cassette (or whole wheel) from the defy to the TCR and that would immediately give you a few extra gears. Obviously assuming they are compatible (same number of gears)

https://www.bikecalc.com/gear_ratios will enable you to compare the 2 set-ups and work out what is the best solution - might be cheaper to just change the cassette than change the whole crankset or chainrings

[TheDrownedApe]

So you've gone from a 34 f 32 r to the new lowest gear of 36 f 28 r!!!

I suspect that's a huge difference and no wonder you feel it. Crazy.

I've I've using 34-50 and 11-28 for years but spec'd my new bike with 11-32 as doing JOGLE on it and want the easier rpm on the lumpy stuff.

I read somewhere that the difference is about 9 rpm at 8 mph but could be mistaken.

Edited by TheDrownedApe on Sunday 4th July 12:50

[Al U]

addey said:

You could swap the cassette (or whole wheel) from the defy to the TCR and that would immediately give you a few extra gears. Obviously assuming they are compatible (same number of gears)

https://www.bikecalc.com/gear_ratios will enable you to compare the 2 set-ups and work out what is the best solution - might be cheaper to just change the cassette than change the whole crankset or chainrings

So the Defy is sold but it was 10 speed anyway whereas the new one is 11 speed. I also think the cage length on my rear derailleur may be too short for the big rings on the rear cassette. Thanks for the suggestion though and will check the ratio site out.

[Al U]

TheDrownedApe said:

So you've gone from a 34 f 32 r to the new lowest gear of 36 f 28 r!!!

I suspect that's a huge difference and no wonder you feel it. Crazy.

I've I've using 34-50 and 11-28 for years but spec'd my new bike with 11-32 as doing JOGLE on it and want the easier rpm on the lumpy stuff.

I read somewhere that the difference is about 9 rpm at 8 mph but could be mistaken.

Edited by TheDrownedApe on Sunday 4th July 12:50

Yeah quite a jump in the lowest gear I guess, on some of the climbs yesterday I was so close to getting off and walking, probably would have been moving quicker but was determined to stay on the bike and did manage so happy with that.

That's another thing I have wondered whether I could leave the front rings as they are and just get a new cassette (and probably longer cage rear derailleur) so I end up with halfway house gearing but sure if that is generally frowned upon or there are other reasons it isn't commonly done.

[leyorkie]

I use the ultegra cassette which is 11/34 and I find that the gears are more linear. Some road cassettes are for example, 11,12,13,15,17,21 etc where the high gears are very close together to maintain peddling cadence. I find the ultegra more friendly in that the steps between gears are consistent and this gives me more usable gears at the low range
I’ve swapped 2 bikes with 105 from 28 to 34 without any problems but I don’t cross chain.

PS I live in the Yorkshire Dales and at 70 years old I choose my gearing carefully 😄

[IroningMan]

52/36 with 11-32 is a pretty solid combination for all-round road use, but you do need a GS rear mech and you will therefore also need a new chain as the one that fits the 11-28 and SS rear mech will be too short.

[Gareth79]

That setup is for pretty strong riders really. I'm light but not hugely strong, and find that 50/34 and 11-28 works well for everything I ride.

I can climb the steepest hills in Surrey/Hants withough dying (although the very steepest such as Barhatch Lane is a grind!), and only use the 11 and 12 teeth on steeper descents, so never really run out.

Edited by Gareth79 on Sunday 4th July 18:19

[Stick Legs]

Between the Quantocks and Exmoor based, so hilly.

50-34 and 11-28 does my summer wheels and 11-32 on my winter wheels as I like the bail out gear when it's cold and miserable.

Dura Ace 9000 with a SS rear mech and no issues but as said above I don't cross chain.
I use Ultegra cassettes and chains as they are cheaper to replace.

[Al U]

IroningMan said:

52/36 with 11-32 is a pretty solid combination for all-round road use, but you do need a GS rear mech and you will therefore also need a new chain as the one that fits the 11-28 and SS rear mech will be too short.

Changing to this seems like it would probably be the cheapest option for me, can leave the front rings as they are and just get the longer cage rear derailleur and a new cassette.

Climbing is something I enjoy and plan into my rides as I want to get better at it, some of the climbs that I was doing yesterday just aren't available in my local area but I do plan on doing more sportives and I feel like at the moment my bike is not best equipped for it, given my current fitness.

Edited by Al U on Sunday 4th July 18:48

[Al U]

Gareth79 said:

That setup is for pretty strong riders really. I'm light but not hugely strong, and find that 50/34 and 11-28 works well for everything I ride.

I can climb the steepest hills in Surrey/Hants withough dying (although the very steepest such as Barhatch Lane is a grind!), and only use the 11 and 12 teeth on steeper descents, so never really run out.

Edited by Gareth79 on Sunday 4th July 18:19

I think when you say strong riders, I agree and I think it is for riders that are both strong and fit to be able to achieve the cadence necessary to climb tough hills when 36-28 is the lowest gear you have. I am definitely not at that level of strength/fitness yet on the bike which is why I think I struggled on the harsh climbs.

[millen]

Yes I would definitely change the cassette. There's a school of thought that excessive grinding up long steep hills promotes excessive wear on the knees if, eg, you're predisposed to arthritis. Less of a risk if you're able to remain out of the saddle for most of the climb, but many of us mere mortals can't.

[TCX]

Go with compact set up,spinning helps on longer rides delay onset of muscular fatigue,bear in mind as a teen lowest gearing available 'grinding' round North lakes few 1 :4 hills on 42x21....ouch

[Al U]

Ordered some new 50/34 chain rings, will get them on and see if it improves things enough. I'll only be missing the 32 tooth cog on the rear cassette that I had on my old bike and think on even the worst hills I should be able to push through with the 30 tooth considering I'll have a 34 up front.

[emicen]

Please come back and let me know how it goes.

I've mostly been riding my gravel bike [with slicks fitted] for the last 8 months. Its GRX equipped, so 48/32t crankset vs an 11-36 cassette.

Now the calipers are leaking and god knows when they'll be replaced/fixed, so back on to my TCR, 52/36t crankset vs an 11-28 cassette and the hills are brutalising me compared to what I'm used to. Have signed up for the Caledonia Etape in September and proper got the fear now at the prospect of some of those hills! Was looking at getting an 11-30 or 11-32 cassette but chain rings might be a better bet as even on the flat I don't find myself using much of the bottom part of the block.

[Dannbodge]

Personally I have 50/34 and 11-28 on the winter bike and 52/36 11-28 on my summer bike and prefer the summer gearing.

Different people have different preferences but you've done the correct thing, switching the crankset out is the easiest way without messing with rear mechs and chain lengths

[louiebaby]

My old aluminium Trek was on 50/34, 11-28, 10spd, and I was able to get up pretty much anything, including a particularly nasty 33% climb near me.

I'm now on a very nice, very stiff carbon bike which has 52/36, 11-30, 11spd. It's broadly the same on the hill climbing, a little bit faster downhill, and the stiffer frame probably making up for the slightly longer uphill gearing.

To be honest, I don't need the 52 tooth big ring. Once I spin out the 50~11 or 52~11 I'm going fast enough to scare myself a bit anyway. Even on this, faster bike I'd probably prefer a 50-34 setup as it would enable the cassette to be a bit smaller and possibly slightly lighter. It would also mean that at speeds of say 20mph in the big ring I would be in a slightly smaller cog on the cassette, which would reduce chain strain, but put a little more resistance in the chain due to it having to bend more. Not sure what the net difference would be in Watts.

Also worth taking into account the size of the tyres, 28c vs 23c are bigger, which will have the effect of making the same cog ratios slight harder.

It will also depend on whether you're a grinder or a spinner, and what your local terrain is like. I love all this stuff.

[Daveyraveygravey]

Dannbodge said:

Personally I have 50/34 and 11-28 on the winter bike and 52/36 11-28 on my summer bike and prefer the summer gearing.

Different people have different preferences but you've done the correct thing, switching the crankset out is the easiest way without messing with rear mechs and chain lengths

I'd disagree with that, chnging the cranks is definitely more expensive. You may also need to reposition the front mech.

[andyA700]

Quite interesting reading about the gearing being used nowadays. In the 70's, 80's and 90's I used 52/42 and a 12 to 23 block. Most ordinary riding at around 20mph was done on 42x16 and I would race on 52x15/16. Maybe 52x14 on a fast course.

[IroningMan]

Daveyraveygravey said:

Dannbodge said:

Personally I have 50/34 and 11-28 on the winter bike and 52/36 11-28 on my summer bike and prefer the summer gearing.

Different people have different preferences but you've done the correct thing, switching the crankset out is the easiest way without messing with rear mechs and chain lengths

I'd disagree with that, chnging the cranks is definitely more expensive. You may also need to reposition the front mech.

If you use 4-bolt Shimano stuff then you only need chainrings as they all share the same PCD, but it can be hit-and-miss as to whether the front mech needs to be repositioned - and I have come across frames that won't allow it to go low enough to work well with a 50/34.